Today's Mods...

[Kerrslight]

 

I just had a thought. So yesterday I tested mine by just putting the wires to the battery terminals. All the LEDs came on, so that's a good thing.

 

My thought though is this - since it is directly to the battery, won't the Switch Light always be lit up? I would imagine this is very minimal draw, however would this ever be something to be concerned about?

 

No. There are three wires going to the switch. You have a power wire, ground wire, and the third wire which I guess you could call a switch wire. If you wire the leads to the switch correctly, the switch light will only come on when in the "on" position. If you get the power wire and the switch wire reversed, the switch light will be on all the time.

 

Basically you have 3 wires and 3 terminals on the switch. You'll know when you've got it correctly. The terminals on the switch I got wasn't color coordinated at all so its just trial and error.

[Chadwilliam1]

He saved me from typing all that. I need to sit down and figure out how to wire mine so it comes on with the brights.

[SkiDooNick700]

He saved me from typing all that. I need to sit down and figure out how to wire mine so it comes on with the brights.

So last question, how long do you think for an install time? Trying to plan Saturday vs Sunday this weekend.

[Chadwilliam1]

About three hours for me. The hard part is getting the grill off but once that is done it is easy.

[Kerrslight]

So last question, how long do you think for an install time? Trying to plan Saturday vs Sunday this weekend.

How do you plan on wiring?

 

For me the time consuming part was taking and perfecting all of my measurements.

[SkiDooNick700]

Can't figure out how to multi quote on my phone, but ok 3 hours doesn't sound too bad at all.

 

How do you plan on wiring?

 

For me the time consuming part was taking and perfecting all of my measurements.

I'm just going to use the switch. I like having the ability to turn it on separately.

[Chadwilliam1]

I put masking tape on the tubing to mark it and drill it. Made it easier to see

[Kerrslight]

Can't figure out how to multi quote on my phone, but ok 3 hours doesn't sound too bad at all.

 

 

I'm just going to use the switch. I like having the ability to turn it on separately.

 

I think Chad's estimate of 3 hours is fairly accurate. Just depends on how familiar you are with doing this type of work. Getting the grill off the first time isn't hard, but can be time consuming. Marking and measuring can definitely take up a good amount of time, and the wiring could be the most time consuming depending on the route you go. I found what worked really well for me is to remove the cover of the circuit box under the steering column, and cut a slit in the nipple on the main rubber grommet that feeds wires through the bay into the cab. Feed a hanger through and use some electrical tape or something to tape your harness to the hanger and pull it through.

[SkiDooNick700]

 

No. There are three wires going to the switch. You have a power wire, ground wire, and the third wire which I guess you could call a switch wire. If you wire the leads to the switch correctly, the switch light will only come on when in the "on" position. If you get the power wire and the switch wire reversed, the switch light will be on all the time.

 

Basically you have 3 wires and 3 terminals on the switch. You'll know when you've got it correctly. The terminals on the switch I got wasn't color coordinated at all so its just trial and error.

 

 

He saved me from typing all that. I need to sit down and figure out how to wire mine so it comes on with the brights.

 

This install did not go very smoothly today. The only part that went well was removing everything to get the grill off. We made some mounting modifications. We put a piece of aluminum angel on top of each of those radiator support beams or whatever they're called. This allowed us to the mount the bar a little higher, and now basically the entire beam shines thru the bottom slot in the grill with little, if any loss from the grill beams..

 

The main issue we had is wiring. We couldn't get the switch to stay off in the off position when directly connected to the battery. Kerrslight mentioned swapping some wires around, so we switched the positions of the blue and white wires, but then the switch didn't work. We scrapped the idea of wiring directly to the battery and ended up tapping into the drivers side headlight beam. We then grounded it to one of those crossbeam rods that go over the "spare" battery tray. I don't think we'll stick with this setup, it's already failed to work 2 times this evening. When it fails, the drivers side headlight beam goes out too. Parking lights and the oem LEDs stay on. Our wiring concept was basically the same as how my PIAAs were set up on my Avalanche, except we used the Parking Light as power instead.

 

Just not understanding the wiring... The LED Bar sure is bright when it works though!

[WLC]

This install did not go very smoothly today. The only part that went well was removing everything to get the grill off. We made some mounting modifications. We put a piece of aluminum angel on top of each of those radiator support beams or whatever they're called. This allowed us to the mount the bar a little higher, and now basically the entire beam shines thru the bottom slot in the grill with little, if any loss from the grill beams..

 

The main issue we had is wiring. We couldn't get the switch to stay off in the off position when directly connected to the battery. Kerrslight mentioned swapping some wires around, so we switched the positions of the blue and white wires, but then the switch didn't work. We scrapped the idea of wiring directly to the battery and ended up tapping into the drivers side headlight beam. We then grounded it to one of those crossbeam rods that go over the "spare" battery tray. I don't think we'll stick with this setup, it's already failed to work 2 times this evening. When it fails, the drivers side headlight beam goes out too. Parking lights and the oem LEDs stay on. Our wiring concept was basically the same as how my PIAAs were set up on my Avalanche, except we used the Parking Light as power instead.

 

Just not understanding the wiring... The LED Bar sure is bright when it works though!

For my aux lights I used a relay with a remote. Works great and all wiring is under the hood. Relay good to 20 amps.Bought on eBay .

[Kerrslight]

 

 

 

This install did not go very smoothly today. The only part that went well was removing everything to get the grill off. We made some mounting modifications. We put a piece of aluminum angel on top of each of those radiator support beams or whatever they're called. This allowed us to the mount the bar a little higher, and now basically the entire beam shines thru the bottom slot in the grill with little, if any loss from the grill beams..

 

The main issue we had is wiring. We couldn't get the switch to stay off in the off position when directly connected to the battery. Kerrslight mentioned swapping some wires around, so we switched the positions of the blue and white wires, but then the switch didn't work. We scrapped the idea of wiring directly to the battery and ended up tapping into the drivers side headlight beam. We then grounded it to one of those crossbeam rods that go over the "spare" battery tray. I don't think we'll stick with this setup, it's already failed to work 2 times this evening. When it fails, the drivers side headlight beam goes out too. Parking lights and the oem LEDs stay on. Our wiring concept was basically the same as how my PIAAs were set up on my Avalanche, except we used the Parking Light as power instead.

 

Just not understanding the wiring... The LED Bar sure is bright when it works though!

 

Are you sure you had the black ground wire in the correct location? It goes on one of the outside terminals and that terminal is a different color than the other two..usually gold from my experience. The other two are silver. I looked at my switch wires and mine is black, blue, white...in that order.

[SkiDooNick700]

 

Are you sure you had the black ground wire in the correct location? It goes on one of the outside terminals and that terminal is a different color than the other two..usually gold from my experience. The other two are silver. I looked at my switch wires and mine is black, blue, white...in that order.

 

Is this what you are talking about?

[Kerrslight]

No, I'm talking about the wires where they plug into the actual switch. So the wires that go from that harness to the actual switch

[SkiDooNick700]

No, I'm talking about the wires where they plug into the actual switch. So the wires that go from that harness to the actual switch

 

Unless you are talking about literally where the wire runs into the switch (1st picture below) I am confused about what else you could be talking about. With this harness, there are two pieces. The one piece wires up to the light bar and also has two terminals which we previously tried putting on the positive and negative truck terminals, then the other end of the wire has a connector which you connect into the wire that runs out of the switch (which I pictured in previous post).

 

 

[Kerrslight]

 

Unless you are talking about literally where the wire runs into the switch (1st picture below) I am confused about what else you could be talking about. With this harness, there are two pieces. The one piece wires up to the light bar and also has two terminals which we previously tried putting on the positive and negative truck terminals, then the other end of the wire has a connector which you connect into the wire that runs out of the switch (which I pictured in previous post).

 

 

I gotchya. That was going to be my next question. You have a hard wired switch. That being said, do any of the lights on the switch light up when it's on or off? If yes then switch is good. If switch works, does led bar turn on? If not then could be a bad relay or bad connection on one of the terminals. Let me know your symptoms.