Jump to content

I need a flush mount third brake light.....

mdrew
 Share

Recommended Posts

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
Posted

Short version of a long, sad story...... I need a cab brake light, or maybe even a block off plate that does not protrude rearward. Reason being, I just had a canapy installed, and the damn thing is sitting too far back. I can't move it foward enough to fit flush with the back, and not hit the brake light in the cab.

 

The canopy is a cab high unit made by Range Rider. It is their Apex Sport model that is suposed to have extended sides that cover the bed rail protectors. The fitment on this isn't great.

 

I've been surfing the net trying to find a different light, but having had much luck finding one with a side view that will show how flush it will fit the cab.

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gee that was an incredibly helpful response. How would you suggest I fix the canopy, sawzall? Just start hacking away on a $3000 painted fiberglass shell?

  • Like 1
sahls01gmc Senior Enthusiast

sahls01gmc

Posted
Posted

You're going to modify your $50,000 truck to get a piss-poor quality aftermarket piece to fit it? I don't understand the logic. Get the correct piece that fits the way it should. You already stated how the fit is not the best.......

  • Like 3
CptMcSaug Enthusiast

CptMcSaug

Posted
Posted

Yeah I would contact the company and see why it fits so bad. A camper top made for a tuck should require no modification to fit.

  • Like 2
soltys Enthusiast

soltys

Posted
Posted

If we're modifying the truck - 2 words - Duct Tape.

All sorts of color options, A tight secure finish.

Get the clear duct tape and keeps the lights for the Euro look. Or use red Tuct tape and still have the appearance of still having the brake light.

  • Like 2
mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All I need is a different light or plate. The light can't even be seen. I hardly consider this "modifying" a 60k truck. Good grief..... Take a look at this light on your trucks. It must stick out a good 1.5".

 

If I could simply move the cap 3/8" foward, the fitment would be OK. Still not great but good enough.

 

I've been dealing with the dealer for five months and am worn out (screwed up a simple wheel and tire order too). Winter is here and I just want to be done with this.

Zoboflobby Enthusiast

Zoboflobby

Posted
Posted

It's a stretch... And not even sure where you could find it. Someone who has a 3D scanner and could 3D print you a cover? Just does not sound like something you can just buy, prob gonna have to fabricate it. And the machine shop of the time is a 3D printer.

  • Like 1
soltys Enthusiast

soltys

Posted
Posted

All I need is a different light or plate. The light can't even be seen. I hardly consider this "modifying" a 60k truck. Good grief..... Take a look at this light on your trucks. It must stick out a good 1.5".

 

If I could simply move the cap 3/8" foward, the fitment would be OK. Still not great but good enough.

 

I've been dealing with the dealer for five months and am worn out (screwed up a simple wheel and tire order too). Winter is here and I just want to be done with this.

 

Seriously now - just go to the dealer, or any dealer if yours is that bad, ask them about the third brake light delete plate. I know you could get it on the previous gens for the 3500s chassis cabs that had cube box conversions mounted or flush mount racks and service boxes. I'm sure the option would still be there.

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you! I had no idea there was a light delete option.

 

And to clarify, the shell was bought from a truck accessories shop, not the GMC dealer.

GMMediumDutyMQ Enthusiast

GMMediumDutyMQ

Posted
Posted

Thank you! I had no idea there was a light delete option.

Maybe there was for previous generations, but nothing is showing as an RPO or SEO for the present truck. I don't know that I've ever seen one. Still seems odd your cap isn't designed to work around the stock lamp. Best of luck...

jhplak325 Enthusiast

jhplak325

Posted
Posted

Short version of a long, sad story...... I need a cab brake light, or maybe even a block off plate that does not protrude rearward. Reason being, I just had a canapy installed, and the damn thing is sitting too far back. I can't move it foward enough to fit flush with the back, and not hit the brake light in the cab.

 

The canopy is a cab high unit made by Range Rider. It is their Apex Sport model that is suposed to have extended sides that cover the bed rail protectors. The fitment on this isn't great.

 

I've been surfing the net trying to find a different light, but having had much luck finding one with a side view that will show how flush it will fit the cab.

Are you sure the dealer order the correct canopy for the truck? You go to Range Rider website and they do list any canopy's for the K2XX platform. This could be the reason why it does not fit correctly.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Anything for the 2010-2013 trucks fits on the beds of the 2014+ trucks, the 2014+ truck bed for the short bed is only different than the 2010-2013 beds by about 1/2" in both directions. I wonder if your truck accessories dealer ordered a camper top for a 2010-2013 truck knowing that it would fit on the 2014+ truck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,949
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gkistler
    Newest Member
    Gkistler
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 921 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Gkistler
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By Gkistler · Posted

      Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...