Polyurethane for floors, use on a door?

[&CDFiXER%]

Totally ignorant here. Have a brand new looking (was in the house when we bought it) can of Minwax "Polyurethane for Floors". Also wanting to try my hand at replacing some hollow core doors. Framing and carpentry work I can do. Painting and staining I know nothing about. Other than I could screw up painting a flat wall. Literally. My power of screwing up painting is legendary among friends and family.

 

Can we use the the "Polyurethane for Floors" on the solid wood door we have stained (well sanded, sealed, and stained -- she did it, I mortised the hinges, etc).

 

Thank you in advance...

[ifixedit]

I do a little wood working on the side. Basically a "polyurethane for floors" is just a better quality varnish meant for tougher use, like a floor. Part of whether you want to use it or not will depend on its finish (gloss, semi gloss, satin, etc.) and what you prefer for a finish. Other than that I see no reason you couldn't use it on a door. The main thing with using any type of varnish is starting with a good clean, well sanded and dust free surface (and working environment). Don't shake the can, this produces bubbles, thoroughly stir it first and you can then brush it on straight out of the can if you like. Brush it on in decent but not sopping wet coats (use a good brush meant for varnish, plan to spend $8+ on the brush! Be patient and wait for each coat to completely dry (usually takes over night), and then apply the next coat. The first coat even after several hours may still seem a bit tacky, this is normal, after the second coat that will go away and will completely dry. You'll want to do at least 3 coats. You can lightly sand between coats with 220 grit sandpaper or steel wool, use a tack cloth to remove the dust, and apply the next coat. When you're finished with a coat, have an old coffee can or equivalent on hand with some paint thinner or mineral spirits in it to clean your brush so it's ready for the next coat, I just leave the brush immersed in the thinner so it doesn't dry out. Use an old towel, etc., first to dry the brush after it's been soaking in the thinner before you put on the next coat, and you should be good to go.

[&CDFiXER%]

Thank you for the feedback. Yes, we looked at the finish (semi-gloss or satin, can't remember, other than she said it was OK). I have noticed brush marks in the current works so perhaps a better brush is in order (foam brush currently being used).

 

This endeavor is being done in the basement. I have the temperature and humidity set Foot traffic is at a minimum. No dust from the dryer either. So I think we are OK from the dust and crud falling into the tacky surface.

 

Come to think of it, I bought some high $ brushes and she has something stashed in thinner on the work table next to this so maybe she is already all over that part. Don't know wtf the foam brush is for then though?

 

Thanks again!

[Imcrazy]

Just go buy a new can, who knows what someone did with that one before you got it, it can be hell to strip off jacked up finish. I've done a lot of wood working, I'm an amateur but, I have worked with pros its well worth it to use the right stuff and stuff you know is good.

[&CDFiXER%]

Good point, probably not worth it to take the risk and have to spend hours undoing a mess. We can use it on something else not as 'obvious'.

[Mike-1000]

If you are going to do this in the basement, and it's an oiled based product, be sure to have good ventilation and no source of sparks.

 

Mike

[ifixedit]

And definitely don't use a foam brush, that's about the worst possible choice you could come up with. If you don't have one already, pay a visit to the local hardware / home improvement store and buy a brush that's specifically for applying varnish, it will generally say so right on the packaging. I'd also buy an angled brush vs. a straight one. I've found foam brushes to be just about worthless for anything, some use them for staining but there too I'd prefer a good old cotton cloth over a foam brush as well. I think they work O.K. for scrubbing toilets! ;-)