Need an answer ASAP!!!

Load*,8,1 · May 1, 2003

I'm in the process of changing my brake pads and rotors. I've been letting my mom use my truck while I was living with my dad for the past 4 months and she's been riding the brakes metal on metal for the past 2 months...

I took pictures and posted them on pbase:

http://www.pbase.com/jhooks/brakes

Is there any way the rotors can be saved by having them turned? Or do I need to just replace them?

Also I started taking the calipers off, got 1 screw off, and the cheap ass bit I used stripped on the 2nd screw (pics on pbase as well) I was wondering is there any way I can get the rest of the screws off? Like some trick? I'm waiting on someone to get home so I can get another bit from the auto part store. Is there a trick to not stripping the bit?

Last question: There is a picture of these clamp things (P1010014.JPG) My sisters ex b/f gave them to me and said you were supposed to put them in your springs (pictures P1010010.JPG and P1010012.JPG) and it will lift the front end a few inches...

How do I do it? And is it wise to do it?

Please I need answers ASAP! I don't want my truck to be sitting the way it is much longer even though I'm waiting for someone to come home so I can finish the job. So if anyone has any comments please don't hold back the replies ;)

Thanks in Advance

Joshua

Frank S · May 1, 2003

You pretty much need to use a bit on the bolts because if memory serves me correctly the head is recessed.It would be difficult to get anything else into the fitting without damaging the head itsself.

On the rotors,I would replace them for sure.I think if you took them to a store and tried to have them turned they would probably tell you the grooves are too deep to turn totally out and suggest that you get new ones anyway though some will turn them as much as they can leaving some of the groove still in the rotor.This will eat your pads up really fast.

In regards to the spring,I really can't tell much by the picture except it looks like what you may have is an overload coil helper instead of an actual spacer.This may increase your ride height a little but I doubt if it would be overly noticeable.

Load*,8,1 · May 1, 2003

By a bit you mean the same thing I was using?

Sorry I'm not 100% familiar with the terminology of it all.

I have a ratchet set and have a T-55 "bit" that goes on the ratchet... and the actuall T-55 bit is what stripped, not the screw I was removing.

Those things are really tight in there. I am gonna spray em down with wd40 to hopefully loosen them and maybe I will not strip the next T-55 star bit I buy. I just wish someone would get home so I can run to the parts store

So you think I should just ignore those lifting things? I don't really care much for lifting the truck... but he gave em to me and I was there anyways so I figured while I was down there. But if you think they won't work right, I won't take the chance. I'm not showing off this truck, I am just using it to get me from point A to point B. Especially since I just moved back home and it's my only mode of transportation.

PS thanks for the prompt reply

Load*,8,1 · May 1, 2003

PS I'm not sure if it matters but it's an 88 GMC Jimmy S15 series 2WD auto tranny 2.8L v6

95whtZR2 · May 1, 2003

I agree with YZR2k, the rotors need to be replaced, they were lke $25 a piece at the most for the ones on my bros. 89' 4wd s10 blazer at Auto Zone. Can't help you mutch on anything else though... Good luck...

Tom

Black94LT1 · May 1, 2003

2wd rotors tend to be a little more, as the hub is built in to them, but new ones are still relatively cheap. If they have never been turned, you may be ok. THe most important thing to ask is how long do you plan on keeping the truck, as that should dictate how much you invest into it.

Forget the coil spacers, just get the brakes fixed.

As for the bolts buy a good quality penetrating oil, like PB Blaster and soak them down good. Most torx bits are terrible quality, so buy a few of them, as you will probably break more of them.

Load*,8,1 · May 1, 2003

My mom came home early (hallelujah) and I used her car to make a run to Autozone.

Picked up 2 new rotors for $25.99 each... not bad... also picked up some grease and 2 new T-55 bits.

Caliper came off with no problem. Just followed the instructions in the hayne's manual to replace the rotor. And now I am sticking the brakes on.

I am running into one problem though. And please forgive my ignorance to technical names of things....

The pads were so worn down that they were squeezing the rotor real tight. So now when I put the new pads on they are almost touching each other and I can't get them over the rotor.

I took 2 pics here:

http://www.pepsishine.com/upload/rotor1.jpg

http://www.pepsishine.com/upload/rotor2.jpg

You can see it real clear in the 2nd pic. The circle thingy needs to go back and I can't get it to budge. How am I supposed to get it to go back so that the whole assemlby will fit on the rotor properly?

Load*,8,1 · May 1, 2003

PS again... How tight should the outer pad be? The inner pad has an anti-rattle clip that holds it tight but the outer pad just kind of rests there... Shouldn't it snap into place? Maybe I'm not doing something right? The old one kinda fell out when I first took the caliper off... Like it wasn't being held in by anything either.....

Sorry for being so ignorant. The last time I changed brake pads was in my firebird almost 2 years ago and my dad did most of the work.

mcali17 · May 1, 2003

The circle thingy that you are referring to is the piston. What you have to do is take the old pad and place it against the piston. Then take a "C" clamp, and place it over the old pad and clamp the other side to the back of the caliper. Tighten the "C" clamp and the piston will colapse. Then you can put the new pads in and place the caliper and pads back over the rotor. Also, you should apply some anti-squeal to the back of the pads, it is usually blue or orange goop. We also use a black anti squeal, more like black water, on the pads. But if you don't have this don't worry, you don't need it, but it helps with brake squeal. I also highly recommend puting white lithium grease on the caliper bolts before re-installing them.

mcali17 · May 1, 2003

The pad the goes against the piston should have a clip in the center that fits inside the piston to hold it in place.

If memory serves me correctly, the outer pad has "ears" or "tabs" on it, that need to be peened over to help keep it in position.

Hope that helps.

Load*,8,1 · May 1, 2003

I went out and bought a C-clamp (another $5.99 out the bank) and I have some of that anti-squeal stuff. I picked it up when I bought the rotors.

I don't see the "ears" you are talking about but I'll find them

Well thanks for the replies! Back to work! Hopefully I'll be finished before sundown.

Load*,8,1 · May 2, 2003

well I finished it. got the rotors on, pads on, wheels on... took it for a test drive... stopped with no problem.. no squeaks or squeels.. was going about 35mph and pushed the brakes down hard and they stopped fine.

whenever i got back home there was heat coming from the brakes and the smell of the grease was real strong like it was burning... is this ok? is it the blue stuff i put on the back of the brakes dripping off and getting hot or something?

how can i break the new pads in good? just drive like normal? brake real easy on them for a while? brake real hard?

this is gonna be my last post botherin ya'll for a lil bit until another project comes along.

thanks for helping me through it step by step. i know where i can come for help with my truck. if anyone needs computer help, lemme know. i'm real good with them ( have my own business fixing em and all - http://www.hookspc.com )

95whtZR2 · May 2, 2003

I don't know anything about that burning being normal or not, I wouldn't think so, but if you were driving around and hitting the brakes a lot, getting them hot, then maybe so...

I remember when my bro did his brakes he thought you had to brake them in real good, so we went out to this remote place where he continued to power the brake the sh!t out of it, along with slamming the pedal to the floor going 50mph to make sure they would stop him. There was smoke coming from the rotors, and a strong burning smell. We figured there was a problem with them, so when my dad got home, we told him about it, and yelled at us about how you have to break them in gently and such.

So, I assume depending on how hard you rode them, determines if the smell is normal or not... I dunno... But his brakes work good now, but you can definately tell that it feels funny and we think it is because he was riding them real hard. I would tell you to just drive normal, maybe leaving some extra room in between you and the car in front of you so you don't have to brake too hard.

The posts ain't botherin' nobody, besides I am fixing to have to do my brakes and this was a refresher course

Tom

mcali17 · May 2, 2003

There is no break in, so don't brake hard or anything. Just realize that when you have new brakes, you have to allow yourslef a little more breaking room until the pads "seat" into the rotors. This will happen on their own, don't force it.

Glad I could help.

I used to own a 1985 S-10, and a 1996 GMC Jimmy.

And have done the brakes on both.