Jump to content

Headliner removal??


lonnieD

Recommended Posts

Posted

Getting a new headliner installed from the dealer. We were going to get in replaced before but the dealer said that the front windshield would have to be removed. Is the truly the case? I would think there would be a way to get it out and the new one in without taking out the glass??

Posted

I already have topic going on this. I'll find a link. Not much info but it does look like its necessary becuase the headliner is so large.

Posted

I searched topics and threads for "headliner" and only 1 post showed..

 

I was wondering if removal of the front seats would work instead of glass removal.

Posted

GM does call for removal of the windshield. We had a Malibu in for a headliner and the windshield had to be pulled. No way it would have came out of that car even with the seats pulled as the door opening was nowhere large enough. If the seats were pulled the new liner may get twisted and bent trying to go in.

Posted

Strange: It seems like one major job for a cosmetic repair.

I had a headliner damage in my 95 Chevy ext-cab by a third party that was doing a repair for the dealership. But that was back then on a 95 extended cab truck.

From my experience if I ever have any third party company do work on a vehicle for GM service, I make sure they have their warranty on the work written on the paperwork or the dealer has it stated on the paperwork.

The issue was a windshield de-lamination on the edges of the windshield in my 95 truck. Dealer out sourced it to a third party to replace the glass. I had leaks after the replacement so when I took it back to the dealership they had a rep from that company put some additional sealer on the inside of the glass. In doing so he pulled on the headliner in the center of the windshield and put a crease in the headliner.

Strange thing is that I had to deal with that same service manager a few years later at another dealership and we almost ended up in a fist fight when he got into my face after I complained of oil and grease in my car after an oil change.

For the next 3 years I had the little calvin looking guy that pee's on thing, decal in my truck window pissin on "Brown Pontiac"

from Toledo. Got a few comments on that one LOL...

Posted

There was a hole in my headliner when it was purchased.. They were going to replace it but I didn't want the glass to be removed due to future problems.. Ironically unbeknownst to me the dealer had the headliner down trying to get it out. During this they seemed to damage the headliner even more after we told they not to remove the windshield. The side panels where the belts attach are scratched like crazy and there are pry marks on all the plastic. One broken clip on the dome light bezel.

 

Now I have to be worried about what damages are going to be done removing the windshield..

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The dealer replaced my headliner when they got smudges all over it. The did NOT take out the windshield. I have the double cab with front bucket seats. They told me they took out he driver, passenger seat and center console and were able to slide it into the cab and up into place. No scratches or creases in the new headliner. Hope that helps.

Posted

have a 2014 crew cab with hail damage on the top insurance agent told me that the headliner has to be removed does that mean the windshield needs to come out ?

Posted

The headliner replacement went smoothly.. It's as close to perfect as it can get.. The dealer did a nice job. The windshield had to come out to get the new one in without bending it ..

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Has someone personally dropped your headliner down on your truck and can inform me what the steps are in doing so ? I need to run a cable to the front rear view mirror area and coming in from the sliding rear window area for a 5th wheel hitch camera by Tompkins .any help would be appreciated . Youtube had nothing.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Has someone personally dropped your headliner down on your truck and can inform me what the steps are in doing so ? I need to run a cable to the front rear view mirror area and coming in from the sliding rear window area for a 5th wheel hitch camera by Tompkins .any help would be appreciated . Youtube had nothing.

 

 

might be able to do it easily if you have a wire snake to run between the headliner and the roof. Just try to stay clear of the wires that run the dome lights. Wont have to drop the entire headliner this way

Posted

I just sound deaden my truck, I was not able to pull my CCSB headliner out, and it sucked.


Has someone personally dropped your headliner down on your truck and can inform me what the steps are in doing so ? I need to run a cable to the front rear view mirror area and coming in from the sliding rear window area for a 5th wheel hitch camera by Tompkins .any help would be appreciated . Youtube had nothing.

rcmike PM a message with your number I can walk you trough the steps.

Posted

Thanks for the offer,, I just ended up running the cable from drivers visor down column to floor underneath to front of bed than hole in bed to transfer tank where I mounted the camera to see the goose neck hitch or fifth wheel hitch. the monitor is a 3 inch screen that I mounted at top of windshield on the inside right by the rear view mirror. I was originally going to mount the camera above sliding rear window but changed my mind. thanks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 696 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...