Big 3, dual battery, or HO alternator?

mois93da · February 23, 2016

I added a subwoofer to the factory radio a few months ago, then I noticed when I drive at night the headlights dim out. Didn't think it could do that with my system since the sub is only 150 watts, amp is 250. This summer I'm getting ready to add a small amp for the door speakers (45x4 rms) and some other electrical upgrades. I'm thinking the headlight dimming might only get worse as I add more gadgets.

I'm wondering if anyone here has upgraded the batt/wires/alternator on these trucks and what would be the best way to go or what parts to use. I hadn't really though of it till now that I'm typing this, maybe all 3?

Jeff5347 · February 23, 2016

Not that I'm much help but I'm running a sealed sub rated at 275. I have my amp bridged which is rated at 450 watts. Don't have it all the way up but I'm putting a bit more than the 275 and my lights and batt gauge are the same since before the sub. Just wondering if yours has less power why its taxing the system?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Chris · February 23, 2016

I had the issue when taxing the system in my 04. Driving at night through Utah with stereo up, heater on high, and wipers on high. I did a 300 amp alt, dual cycle battery, and big 3. Not an issue anymore

Ewess · February 23, 2016

Add a cap I did that in my truck with my system. It stores extra power for when it needs.

Nolasaintz · February 23, 2016

Your setup really shouldn't dim your lights. I have an Alpine PDX-V9 with a birth sheet of 125 x 4 and 550 on the sub channel pushing a 12 with aftermarket speakers, and my lights don't dim at all.

I would like to do the big 3, so hopefully someone who has will chime in...

mois93da · February 24, 2016

Your setup really shouldn't dim your lights. I have an Alpine PDX-V9 with a birth sheet of 125 x 4 and 550 on the sub channel pushing a 12 with aftermarket speakers, and my lights don't dim at all.

That's exactly what I'm thinking. The sub is literally the only gadget I've added to the truck since it was new. 4 gauge ofc wire to the amp straight from the battery, to Memphis 500 watt monoblock(250w @4ohms), to 12 gauge ofc speaker wire, to a 10" Polk sub (150w@4ohm) in a sealed probox

slj2008 · February 24, 2016

Big Three "0" gauge is the best, But you can used "4" gauge - Batt to Alt , Batt to ground , motor to ground . any good radio shop can help you with your setup .

Chris · February 24, 2016

Big Three "0" gauge is the best, But you can used "4" gauge - Batt to Alt , Batt to ground , motor to ground . any good radio shop can help you with your setup .

I used 1/0. I ordered the cable and ends from Darvex. Used Stinger HPM cable and gold plated ring terminals a little dirty but here is a pic

rocknfire · February 24, 2016

Check your ground.

Zachlovesfood · February 25, 2016

I had the same issue on a previous vehicle. Took it to an audio shop and they said it probably wasn't grounding correctly. So they moved the ground point, and the issue was fixed.

Silver ice 6.2 · February 25, 2016

It's your ground.... did you sand down the paint and primer? Take it down to bare metal. How long is ur ground? I've done stereo systems for years... and I've kept the ground wire always at 1 foot long... just like my power cable.. 1 foot long and put the and fuse. And continue with the power wire.if grounds are good. Check the wire for bad crimp...