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1995 4X4 tbi suburban

jonpdubois

By jonpdubois
in Ask A GM Technician

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jonpdubois Enthusiast

jonpdubois

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Thanks JS... But it starts completely normal... Thats why I'm here... NOTHING strange or out of ordinary... I have another 95 suburban with same engine setup... Starter moves normally and smooth on both... No speed change in either...

Badass69 Senior Enthusiast

Badass69

Posted
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Pull the valve covers then. However bad smell indicates fuel isn't being combusted so at least one cylinder... or all randomly is not firing.

 

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Badass69 Senior Enthusiast

Badass69

Posted
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90 when the others are at 140 surely isn't going to make it run very smooth. Maybe not a dead miss, but it ain't good!

That would show up on the test... his engine compression is fine lol..

 

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Badass69 Senior Enthusiast

Badass69

Posted
Posted

Thanks JS... But it starts completely normal... Thats why I'm here... NOTHING strange or out of ordinary... I have another 95 suburban with same engine setup... Starter moves normally and smooth on both... No speed change in either...

Have you unhooked the exhaust on the truck and run it?

 

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Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
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The compression tester used is new... I figured there was a discrepancy with the tester and put it on my 96 350 vortech... Almost same readings... My 96 is the family daily driver and runs about 200 miles a day with no issues with 324k on the odometer... Don't think the gauge is flawed...

 

10-4 -- just figured I'd throw that out there, since we're troubleshooting over the net. So we've ruled out compression - that leaves fuel and spark.

jonpdubois Enthusiast

jonpdubois

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Ok... Just so y'all know... I am an idiot... Now the miss became stable after i changed the distributor... And then I decided to change the plug wires with a little led flash light in the dark... 2 and 4 were swapped... Switched them to there proper plugs and it runs like a charm... Any way... Thankyou for all the help and assistance... Feel free to call me a moron... Lol, and have a good day or night, were ever your at.

 

And yes... The pickup in the old distributor was cracked...

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

I didn't even think of that, and that's a VERY common problem! I've done it myself a time or 2 - we're only human.

 

Glad you got that sorted out. :cheers:

jonpdubois Enthusiast

jonpdubois

Posted
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Posted

Next question two 95 suburbans:

One two wheel drive w30(4L60E)

One 4X4 manual t-case and 4L60E

 

Swapping bodys, the two wheel drive harness will operate the 4 wheel frame right? Two wheel truck has bent frame, and 4 wheel has a wrecked body... And my wife loves this truck... To her 4X4 is an added bonus... I have done swaps before on some older vehicles...

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Since it's non- OBD-II it should be pretty straightforward. You can always wire in the things needed for the front axle to engage. Can't remember if those used the vacuum system or electric solenoid to engage it ...

 

 

EDIT: you posted while I was typing - you can just wire up that solenoid to work on a toggle switch to keep things simple, or just cut those wires out of the other truck and use them the way they were originally.

jonpdubois Enthusiast

jonpdubois

Posted
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Posted

Thats kinda what I had figured... I just don't want to disable a perfectly good and operating 4 wheel drive train... Lol... Let y'all know how it goes... Thanks...

Thats kinda what I had figured... I just don't want to disable a perfectly good and operating 4 wheel drive train... Lol... Let y'all know how it goes... Thanks...

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

I think most of the 4x4 related wiring you could leave right with the 4x4 frame/drivetrain - it only needs 12v from the ignition, and probably switched by a detent in the transfer case. Fairly simple compared to systems built this century.

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

I was actually going to suggest to verify plug wire installation, except I was thinking more of 5 and 7 being swapped.

 

Something that has not be said is that just because compression is good does not mean that engine is mechanically sound. You can be missing 95% of the camshaft lobe for an exhaust valve and still get good compression, but a miss when engine running. A compression test alone is really only good for verifying that there is no BIG sealing issues in the cylinder like a holed piston or burnt valve/seat. Otherwise the results are only a starting point in the diagnosis. Small block Chev engines in the late 70's to at least the mid 90's seemed to be tough on camshafts. Don't know how many I found by simply taking the oil fill cap off the cover and checking the rocker movement by using your finger through the hole on a running engine. The rocker on one side moved significantly more than the one on the other side. A common side effect of a bad cam was the engine backfiring through the intake under initial hard acceleration.

 

There was a post asking about the possibility of a valve being opened by compression due to weak or broken spring, that is not really a possibility due to relationship of valve to piston. Compression will actually push the valve into the valve seat. That is actually why the valve train is setup that way, otherwise the valves would be pushed open under pressure from the cylinder firing.

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