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Posted

Just starting off I love this site it's helped me through so many problems with so many types of GM trucks still not as many problems that I helped with the other guys trucks lol you guys know what and who I mean. well I'm here again and if some of my years of working on trucks can help others that's why I'm here and that's why I signed upon here. Well in starters I have one for you guys maybe some one can help me out I have a 05 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with the 5.3L my brakes are pulsing at high speeds and before all of you start writing this and that let me tell you what I have done first 3 weeks ago i put new drums and shoes along with all new hardware in the back and now for the front I put new calipers on both sides new pads and new rotors no one set but 2 sets thinking that I got a bad batch and I also changed the tie rods but after all that when I drive down the road and I hit 50 kms or faster and I try to stop it shakes so bad like I have a warped rotor that it can shake the fillings out of your teeth a little humor it's not funny but I brought it back in and re did it all new rotors the 2nd set and re bleed the brakes front and back well it's better but it's still there I'm not sure what's going on can anyone lend me a hand and try and steer me in the right direction. thanks

Posted

Just starting off I love this site it's helped me through so many problems with so many types of GM trucks still not as many problems that I helped with the other guys trucks lol you guys know what and who I mean. well I'm here again and if some of my years of working on trucks can help others that's why I'm here and that's why I signed upon here. Well in starters I have one for you guys maybe some one can help me out I have a 05 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with the 5.3L my brakes are pulsing at high speeds and before all of you start writing this and that let me tell you what I have done first 3 weeks ago i put new drums and shoes along with all new hardware in the back and now for the front I put new calipers on both sides new pads and new rotors no one set but 2 sets thinking that I got a bad batch and I also changed the tie rods but after all that when I drive down the road and I hit 50 kms or faster and I try to stop it shakes so bad like I have a warped rotor that it can shake the fillings out of your teeth a little humor it's not funny but I brought it back in and re did it all new rotors the 2nd set and re bleed the brakes front and back well it's better but it's still there I'm not sure what's going on can anyone lend me a hand and try and steer me in the right direction. thanks

Punctuation is the use of commas. periods, capital letters, that makes groups of words understandable. See link below.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punctuation

Posted

Wow did I ask for a grammar check no I have a problem with a truck if you don't understand what I'm trying to say just ask if you need more info just ask last time I checked I,m not in school and this isn't the sand box.

Posted

Youmayhavealoosetierodcausingafrontendshakeunderbrakingcheckforwornsuspensioncomponents

Posted

Wow did I ask for a grammar check no I have a problem with a truck if you don't understand what I'm trying to say just ask if you need more info just ask last time I checked I,m not in school and this isn't the sand box.

 

He just having a bit o' fun. Relax. To your credit I think I saw 2 periods in your post. :jester:

 

As noted. Check ALL front end components, including idler and pittman arms

Posted

Wow did I ask for a grammar check no I have a problem with a truck if you don't understand what I'm trying to say just ask if you need more info just ask last time I checked I,m not in school and this isn't the sand box.

 

I would be glad to try and help you, but do me a favor and take an extra 10 seconds to make sentences. I am not going to spend 5 minutes deciphering a run on post.

 

I suggest that you first check the wheel bearings, then pull the new rotors off and be sure that the hub flange and the back of the rotors do not have any rust, debris, or anything else that would cause the rotor to not run true. I use a wire brush on a drill to make sure they are nice and clean.

Posted

I have the same issue after replacing front rotors and pads. I've rechecked the rotors/mounts/pads/bolts for correct install, everything was perfect. Now I need to check for wheel bearings I suppose.

 

How do you check for tie rods being loose? And what do you check with idler and pitman arms?

Posted

Get the wheels off the ground and you, underneath. Equipped with a prybar, proceed to pry about and on the tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm as well as the ball joints. Any movement/slop, in any of the joints, is cause for replacement.

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