Jump to content

2014 Silverado headlight updated to LED?

rekirk82

By rekirk82
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

I just installed the same set up but they keeping flickering and shutting off. Vleds said they have a drl module coming out in September to fix.....hope fingers crossed. They sure are nice and bright though.

 

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Cover your optic sensor with a dark object (I used a black hat). After you start your truck, I'm assuming they're bright for a few seconds then flicker and go off, correct? Simply turn your lights completely off (1/8th of a counter clockwise turn on your headlight switch) and turn them back on. Boom. Working smz headlights. Let me know if it works

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

Cover your optic sensor with a dark object (I used a black hat). After you start your truck, I'm assuming they're bright for a few seconds then flicker and go off, correct? Simply turn your lights completely off (1/8th of a counter clockwise turn on your headlight switch) and turn them back on. Boom. Working smz headlights. Let me know if it works

 

Wait what? That is um wow ,,, I have no words except just use Phllips mine work flawlessly no hassle. The whole point of the driver is to supply it with constant current. When I had mine hooked up as factory DRL I had none of these issues so if it a current thing my money is on a crappy LED driver (which is kind of part of the whole bulb since they come together).

tyler.r.jacobs Enthusiast

tyler.r.jacobs

Posted
Posted

Cover your optic sensor with a dark object (I used a black hat). After you start your truck, I'm assuming they're bright for a few seconds then flicker and go off, correct? Simply turn your lights completely off (1/8th of a counter clockwise turn on your headlight switch) and turn them back on. Boom. Working smz headlights. Let me know if it works

1st attempt no light 2nd attempt and each one after that they seem to be doing fine. Thanks for that info! Should I keep it covered all the time till Vleds comes out with that module?

 

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

 

Wait what? That is um wow ,,, I have no words except just use Phllips mine work flawlessly no hassle and I do not need a hat to start my truck. The whole point of the driver is to supply it with constant current. When I had mine hooked up as factory DRL I had none of these issues so if it a current thing my money is on a crappy LED driver (which is kind of part of the whole bulb since they come together).

What do yo mean use Phillips? These are a Phillips led chip. But they aren't getting a constant current until I do my little work around. It's a good temporary fix that I'm fine with doing until a permanent fix comes to light

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

1st attempt no light 2nd attempt and each one after that they seem to be doing fine. Thanks for that info! Should I keep it covered all the time till Vleds comes out with that module?

 

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Yes. Keep it covered if you want your lights on

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

What do yo mean use Phillips? These are a Phillips led chip. But they aren't getting a constant current until I do my little work around. It's a good temporary fix that I'm fine with doing until a permanent fix comes to light

 

 

Ah that is good then, still seems wonky that you need a workaround. No one else I know has to do this, personally I would have returned it as defective.

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

 

 

Ah that is good then, still seems wonky that you need a workaround. No one else I know has to do this.

 

These smz's are brand new to the market and I thought I'd be a little Guinea pig to see if they worked so I've been supplying Vleds with my knowledge since I received them. Do you know more people with these bulbs or are they a different led? (Phillips I'm assuming. Sorry, I just woke up)

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

A handful some with Cree LEDS everyone I know they were plug and play pretty much no issues. One guy I know had a defective bulb which just did not work, might have even been the driver for all I know but that was replaced .. I think he got 2 new ones and drivers, probably sent others back.

 

 

Also is that sensor you are covering also not used for the climate control system, I think it does from what I remember reading about it.

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

A handful some with Cree LEDS everyone I know they were plug and play pretty much no issues. One guy I know had a defective bulb which just did not work, might have even been the driver for all I know but that was replaced .. I think he got 2 new ones and drivers, probably sent others back.

 

 

Also is that sensor you are covering also not used for the climate control system, I think it does from what I remember reading about it.

Ah I see, and these just plain weren't designed for a DRL set up. They gave me a fair warning and I didn't listen, bound and determined to make them work.

 

As far as the sensor, its only job to my knowledge is detecting light for A). The headlights and B). The Interior lighting. I'm not sure why an optic sensor would negatively impact how your ac/heat works

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted
It is more than optic also registers solar heat.


From the manual 8-8:


The solar sensor, located in the

defrost grille in the middle of the

instrument panel, monitors the solar

heat. Do not cover the solar sensor

or the system will not work properly.

There is also an exterior

temperature sensor behind the front

grille. This sensor reads the outside

air temperature and helps maintain

the temperature inside the vehicle.

Any cover on the front of the vehicle

including a snow plow, could cause

a false reading in the displayed

temperature.

Some vehicles may have the

exterior temperature sensor in the

passenger side mirror instead of the

front grille area.

The climate control system uses the

information from these sensors to

maintain comfort settings by

adjusting the outlet temperature, fan

speed, and the air delivery mode.

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

 

From the manual:

 

The solar sensor, located in the

defrost grille in the middle of the

instrument panel, monitors the solar

heat. Do not cover the solar sensor

or the system will not work properly.

There is also an exterior

temperature sensor behind the front

grille. This sensor reads the outside

air temperature and helps maintain

the temperature inside the vehicle.

Any cover on the front of the vehicle

including a snow plow, could cause

a false reading in the displayed

temperature.

Some vehicles may have the

exterior temperature sensor in the

passenger side mirror instead of the

front grille area.

The climate control system uses the

information from these sensors to

maintain comfort settings by

adjusting the outlet temperature, fan

speed, and the air delivery mode.

I could be wrong, but when it says "these sensors" I think it's talking about "the one in the grill" or the one "sometimes in the passenger mirror". Not the optic one. But again, that's just my interpretation of GM's writing

Schredder68028 Enthusiast

Schredder68028

Posted
Posted

Even though this is a little off the original topic, I'm heading out to do a little pokemon hunting here in a bit ;) I can test the auto function and see how it behaves because I never really use it

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

I could be wrong, but when it says "these sensors" I think it's talking about "the one in the grill" or the one "sometimes in the passenger mirror". Not the optic one. But again, that's just my interpretation of GM's writing

 

 

No it is saying every one uses the solar sensor on dash but some have extior in grill and some mirrors, then it uses a differential reading between the two to operate the system correctly. But to each their own personally like my climate control system and would not trade it for working DRL's

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

i have 35 watt 4300 hid in standard housing, a 100 times better than stock. i have them aimed down a bit and never get flashed.

 

:nonod: You basically put a bulb that is about 3 times brighter than stock. They are probably too blinded or shocked to find the bright switch.

 

Tyler

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...