Jump to content

2016 Silverado - remove small dent in wheel wheel (inside bed)


rayzzr

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I am getting a Linex sprayed in later this week, but I was hauling some cargo and now have a 2" dent in my passenger wheel well. It is a mild dent, but one that would show if they spray over it. I have those fender skirt liners, and I have not taken those off, but is the bed double-walled there or is my fix as simple as removing the wheel well liner, and using a mallet to tap the dent out? It won't have to be perfect, as they are spraying over it.

Posted

bed is double walled, so I don't think you can get to it from the backside. Since the bedliner company is going to spray it see what a body shop would charge to spot weld a pull tab on it and pull it out. Then once they grind down the spot spray it with some paint until the bed liner is sprayed in. You will never notice the repair that way,

Posted

bed is double walled, so I don't think you can get to it from the backside. Since the bedliner company is going to spray it see what a body shop would charge to spot weld a pull tab on it and pull it out. Then once they grind down the spot spray it with some paint until the bed liner is sprayed in. You will never notice the repair that way,

 

I figured it was double walled, oh well. I may see what a body shop can do it with it. It looks pretty shallow, but generally they can't fill it in with the Line-x stuff. Bedliner is going in this Thurs, so I just need to get it taken care of quickly.

Posted

I have seen a paintless dent removal guy use a suction cup like puller which he glued on to the surface and then pulled out a shallow dent which could not be accessed from the other side. They use special glue that is heat activated and separates and cleans up afterwards.

Posted

I just has such work done on mine. Paintless dent removal. You would be surprised the places they can get into with those yard long tools. He got to mine via the rear tail lamp opening after removing it.

Posted

pull the inner plastic wheel liner out and you will be able to tap it out. double wall construction applies only to the box sides,

I did last night, but I could not see the dent from the inside. It must be double wall there on the 2016. I plan to hot glue a puller on it, and pull that with pliers to try and pop it out. I used a strong magnet and got the worst of it out. The bedliner spray may cover it up. It isn't a huge deal, but the truck has less than 1100 miles. I'd prefer to not have a dent encased in Linex. The PDR guy said he cannot work with the dent once Linex is sprayed. I either need to get the dent out myself, cancel the Linex appt and wait for the PDR guy and reschedule, or just let them shoot the liner and not worry about it.

Posted

So no local PDR places could fix this for me in the time I needed it done by, and I did not want to cancel my Linex appt so....

 

I studied various ways of removing it myself:

 

Tapped wheel well inside bed with rubber mallet around the dent - no change

 

Heated the dent and applied ice (alternated multiple times) - no change

 

Heated the dent and used a strong magnet - this actually worked, a little

 

Removed wheel well liner to try and access for underneath - appears to be double walled, couldn't

 

A buddy told me he used one of those suction cups with a hook on it (like you use to hang something with), and hot glue. He had put hot glue on the cup, pushed it on the dent, waited for it to setup, then pulled it with pliers. Different materials, but similar concept to what the PDR pros use (granted their 'cups' are textured to hold the glue, more on that in a sec)

 

Since this was inside the bed, and since Linex scuff off the paint to apply it what did I have to lose?

 

I tried it, and the result was zip. The suction cup was too slick and turned loose from the glue before it would pull on the dent. So I removed the hot glue and had another idea.

 

I took a 5" piece of 1/2" PVC, and scuffed the outside with sandpaper to make the glue adhere better. Then I cleaned the area around the dent really well, and applied hot glue liberally to the PVC. I then stuck it into the dent, following the crease (so the PVC was 'cradled' in the valley made by the dent)

 

I waited 60 seconds for the glue to cure, and went to pull off the PVC. It was more muscle needed than I could apply holding the tiny piece of PVC, so I ran a rope through it. It took quite a bit of strength to pull the PVC off, and when it came off it made a very loud bang! Lo and behold, 95% of the dent was gone! I repeated the process and got closer to 98% of it out. You could still see a distortion in the paint if I pointed it out, but that was close enough considering Linex would be shot over it.

 

Got the Linex liner shot in today, and you cannot even tell it was ever there.

 

Sort of my own hillbilly version of a pops-a-dent :ughdance:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 381 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...