Jump to content

Wheelbarrow Ramps?


Bowtie619

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys,

 

Moving some dirt and rocks and was planning on renting a dump trailer but the job isn't looking to be as big as anticipated. Any recommendations on the cheapest route to buy or put together a wheel barrow ramp into my truck bed (2014 Silverado)?? Something I could pick up local? I called home depot and they rent some ramps but I'm not sure if they are made for wheel barrows or if they are wide enough. I figured some of you have to have used your truck to haul dirt by now so any suggestions would be great. All the ramps I see are made for motorcycles and I would probably fall off of that going up since they don't look very wide! I'll make it work either way but was hoping someone might have a suggestion i haven't thought of. Thanks!

Posted

sounds dangerous.

 

if I was going to try it, I would try to anchor some 2x8's with a sheet of plywood on top. (but i already own 4 2x8 ramps so that would be easy.)

 

good luck trying to push a full wheelbarrow up a ramp that steep unless you can park in a ditch or something to lower the distance from your tailgate to the ground. I have wheeled dirtbikes and a snowmobile into my bed and its not easy.

 

if you are going to walking up it, it needs to be wide enough for you to stand on and balance the thing.

 

Other alternative is to throw shovels of dirt directly into the truck and skip the wheelbarrow.

Posted

I use a 2X10 with a piece of diamond plate, that has a slight kink pressed into it so it matches the tailgate, bolted to the end. It's a fact! Unless you are parked in a ditch, the ramp will be way to steep to push a wheelbarrow up.

Be sure to put a piece of cardboard down to bridge between the bed and tailgate. That will eliminate a hard to clean up mess.

 

Mike

Posted

I find it very hard to believe you are going to push a full wheel barrow up into your truck or control a full one rolling out of your truck. I just park mine at the the end of my tailgate and shovel from the bed into it.

Posted

Why does the wheel barrow need to be filled to the max? I can fill it halfway or any amount that keeps it steady up a ramp. By the way I had this Mexican guy do some cement work and he did about 20 full wheel barrow loads up into his small truck using just a board...it was amazing to watch lol...I have no access to my backyard otherwise I would just pull up and shovel right into the bed. Just looking for ideas so thanks for the input. If I bring the wheel barrow to the bed and it's to steep I would definitely just scoup it in, I'm not going to kill myself here trying to get the wheelbarrow up. I might even still go with the dump trailer but I still need a ramp for that as well. I'm just trying to maximize my time so thanks for the ideas everyone.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...