Jump to content

Audio upgrade options

Houseopayne

By Houseopayne
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Houseopayne Enthusiast

Houseopayne

Posted
Posted

I want to upgrade the speakers in my 2016 silverado 1500 crew cab. I've found the Alpine pss-31 gm full speaker replacement upgrade system and it's a direct fit with amp and sub. Does anyone have experience with this system? I have the none-bose system currently. If you don't have experience but know of a great direct fit replacement system sub or no sub can you please share your specs and description? How is it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WhineyTTwins Enthusiast

WhineyTTwins

Posted
Posted (edited)

That is A LOT of money for a plug and play sound system. They're charging you a nice convenience fee. I did a complete write up a couple years ago when I did mine. Fairly easy but I ended up upgrading all the speaker wiring, changing all door speakers, adding (2) 10" subs under the rear seats, (2) amps, and an LCQ-1 while still retaining factory head unit and have yet to change the dash speakers but I was nowhere near that cost.

 

Build the system yourself and install it. It's really not hard at all.

Edited by Ericruiz911
WhineyTTwins Enthusiast

WhineyTTwins

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well dam, looks like Alpine designed a custom bracket to mount their tweeter on the dash. I wonder if they sell that alone because I definitely need it to finish my system. I have yet to take out the speakers in the dash and finish the system because nothing really fits there. If this bracket works, then it should be the golden ticket to an easy DIY system.

822_1lg.jpg

Edited by Ericruiz911
A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just did the Kicker VSS power stage sub with the mulit channel amp and digital signal processor $800 then upgraded both the front and rear door speakers with the kicker KS series $230.

It is crisp clear at any volume and way louder than I need.

Edited by Alexantics
  • Like 1
ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted

I just did the Kicker VSS power stage sub with the mulit channel amp and digital signal processor $800 then upgraded both the front and rear door speakers with the kicker KS series $230.

It is crisp clear at any volume and way louder than I need.

 

How well do the door speakers increase the VSS system?

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

How well do the door speakers increase the VSS system?

I feel that it made a difference especially when pushing the volume. The highs and mids are more defined and clear. I did the 3-way 6x9's in the front doors and the 6-3/4 in the rear doors. If I did it again I would just do 6-1/2's in the back doors. I am complelty satisfied with the stereo now. I sometimes wish I had more bass but know I do not really need it. The stock head unit blows and I really want the Alpine X110-SLV but there is no way I am forking out that much $$$.

 

To the Original poster, If I were you I would sit in someones truck that has the Kicker VSS powerstage upgrade first then decide if you want to upgrade the rest of the speakers. The multi channel digital amp/processor makes a huge difference.

Edited by Alexantics
scooby3242 Enthusiast

scooby3242

Posted
Posted

I want to upgrade the speakers in my 2016 silverado 1500 crew cab. I've found the Alpine pss-31 gm full speaker replacement upgrade system and it's a direct fit with amp and sub. Does anyone have experience with this system? I have the none-bose system currently. If you don't have experience but know of a great direct fit replacement system sub or no sub can you please share your specs and description? How is it?

 

I have the pss31-gm speaker system and the alpine x110-Slv head unit. I can tell you alpine got it right with the speaker system, the imaging, mid bass and sound quality are really good. I wasn't sure how good the single 10 inch speaker would sound because a lack of airspace because I typically like more bass. What it lacks in bass is made up by the 8" mid bass speakers in the front doors. I also have sound deadner in my doors which helps a lot. Because I like more bass I have added two 10's under the seat but people who have heard it with the single 10 say it is more than enough for them. 6afdee088f81485399ab4f1e6ad93a9a.jpgaeac267df1d46ceaed64b240c738e9c4.jpg3789818473d283aaf681303a2ea93682.jpg I also had my dash pods color matched to my dash which looks a lot better and got rid of the glare on my windshield from the original silver color

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

If you ever pull you door panels can you measure the outer diameter of the 8 in the door and how thick the adapter is?

scooby3242 Enthusiast

scooby3242

Posted
Posted

If you ever pull you door panels can you measure the outer diameter of the 8 in the door and how thick the adapter is?

Will do, I remember it being oddly shaped to fit the 8

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to fit a hybrid audio L8 in the door but the outer diameter is like 8.7 . So I don't want the door interfering with the speaker surround

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted

I want to upgrade the speakers in my 2016 silverado 1500 crew cab. I've found the Alpine pss-31 gm full speaker replacement upgrade system and it's a direct fit with amp and sub. Does anyone have experience with this system? I have the none-bose system currently. If you don't have experience but know of a great direct fit replacement system sub or no sub can you please share your specs and description? How is it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seems like a great idea if you are not an expert. The little crap like wiring, connectors, fuse block, speaker fitment, will all add a lot of time and money to the project if you don't do stereo installation frequently.

 

I was trying to figure out what kind of speakers were in that system but couldn't. It's really nice there's a sub, and 8" mid, a 3" mid, and a tweeter. Not sure if it's going to be better than a couple sets of focals and a sub though.

 

Probably could order the alpine tweeter housing seperately, those are pretty nice by themselves

  • Like 2
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Focal, hertz etc won't just automatically sound better. I have used silver flutes and cheap seas tweeters and got it to sound better

 

Audio is 25% equipment and 75% staging/tuning

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted

Focal, hertz etc won't just automatically sound better. I have used silver flutes and cheap seas tweeters and got it to sound better

 

Audio is 25% equipment and 75% staging/tuning

I've been saying that for years and is why I enjoy the sound of nice factory systems typically. I used to be an installer a long time ago. While I the individual tones always sounded great and had great clarity, they never worked in harmony together. It was like there was the high frequency's, the mid, and the subwoofer, never seemed to play as a cohesive system. I think it's difficult to achieve in a vehicle, especially when you don't have 100's of hours of tuning and r&d to put into it like a manufacturer.

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I have had low end setups like stated below and high end setups such as hybrid audio and Brax. Both systems scored within 2 points of each other.

 

Staging and tuning is everything. My wife's Sq car I had over 200 hours of tuning. Each day go out with the rta and do a little.

 

It just takes time, not so much takes a ton of money

  • 1 month later...
tex85 New Member

tex85

Posted
Posted

I had a system (amp,Subwoofer) installed in my 2016 Silverado LT Double Cab in September of 2016. I kept the factory stereo and had it installed by a guy that's certified in audio installation. Up until 3 weeks ago I had no issues with the vehicle/battery. I tried to turn on my vehicle with the remote start and it wouldn't turn on, I went outside tried to turn it on manually and it didn't turn on. Luckily I have a battery booster pack and I was able to get to work on time. A couple of days later I had the same issue in the morning. So after that I decided to take out the fuse on the amplifier and I went 2 weeks without any battery issues. Yesterday I decided to install the fuse so I could listen to some tunes and by the end of my shift the battery was dead. I know that the remote wire is plugged into the Radio fuse in the dash and I want to know if that is the reason my battery is draining, also if that is the reason why did it take almost 5 months to cause this issue? anybody else having this same issue? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 460 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...