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By silveradosid · Posted
what are the codes, might be easier to fix than rewire -
I don't have any pics of my '78 Cutlass on the computer - they were REAL pictures ... with film! Long before this computer crap took over everything, and made everything a PITA! I wasn't a fan of the downsizing done in '78. I never liked the look of it, but the kid who built it made it look mint, at least compared to the heaps I normally drove back then. Heavy orange peeled black paint (good from 20'), Corvette Ralleyes with raised whites, and they peeled the vinyl top off and painted that. Loved those Ralleyes!! Looked so nice! It had a Goodwrench 350 and a BUILT TH400 that barked the tires nicely! Kid built it totally wrong for the street, though. Everything he put in or on the engine was for the drag strip! Holley Dominator Strip intake manifold, Crane 292H came that barely idled ... and on a stock converter! Thing used to start creeping at lights with both feet on the pedal. Would empty that vacuum canister in no time flat! Everyone thought I was doing it on purpose, so EVERYONE had to race me at every light, HAHAHA! I'd get smoked off the line by a Ford Escort ... but once it hit 3,000 RPM, HANG ON! It ripped! Was like a 2-stroke motocrosser powerband. Also had gray Fiero bucket seats in the all black interior, and custom dual exhaust that I ended up throwing a set of Dynomax Super Turbos on. MAN did that thing sound SWEEET! I have a VHS tape of me drag racing some kid at night. Can't see crap, but you can hear me! -
First you have to figure out how you want it to work, either automatically in conjunctionn with something else, or just manually with a switch or what. -
charm.li (website) has GM's diagnostic procedures for each of those codes. GM recommends working them one at a time, lowest number up.
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Those are the exact numbers I have researched for a stock height trucks. Those Amazon prices beat RockAuto...very surprised.
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