Jump to content

Another grill insert


Recommended Posts

Posted

Don't know if this one has been covered yet. It is very inexpensive so I expected to throw it out and pay the $80-$120 for one of the others. It turned out to be very nice. Had to toss the 2 screws/lock nuts for a couple black hardware store bolts/nuts to hold the bracket on tight but a nice tight fit. The bars even match the bars in the plastic on each side of it.

http://www.grille4u.com/gmc-sierra-2500-sierra-3500-2015-to-2016-grille-aluminum-g66326h.html

Posted

It looks great and half the price of the one I put in. I still find it hard to believe that GMC sells the HD models with the big ugly hole in the front bumper.

Posted

Shoot, that's a third of the price! Looks to be the same thing too

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

Don't know if this one has been covered yet. It is very inexpensive so I expected to throw it out and pay the $80-$120 for one of the others. It turned out to be very nice. Had to toss the 2 screws/lock nuts for a couple black hardware store bolts/nuts to hold the bracket on tight but a nice tight fit. The bars even match the bars in the plastic on each side of it.

http://www.grille4u.com/gmc-sierra-2500-sierra-3500-2015-to-2016-grille-aluminum-g66326h.html

 

John Dell,

Did you have to remove the grill to bolt that mini grill in? Also was any drilling required?

Thanks

Posted

 

John Dell,

Did you have to remove the grill to bolt that mini grill in? Also was any drilling required?

Thanks

I did not have to remove the big grill. This grill insert is held in with two brackets at the top of each side. It does require drilling one small hole on each side to bolt the bracket on each side. These two holes total [one each side] are near the top so even if you remove the grill the little 3/16 holes would be hard to notice. After the brackets are on, then two screws each side thru the grill insert and into the brackets.

Posted

Thanks for the fast reply John.

I'm definitely going to get one at that price. Pretty easy install too!!!

Posted

Grill inserts do dress it up nicely, I'm waiting to pop in an LED light bar in that hole instead, though. That would provide me some better function when I need it.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 995 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...