aelancaster Posted January 27, 2017 Posted January 27, 2017 I swapped in white LED's this past weekend, that was that seems to have been the easy part. Now the gauges lite up blue which is not what I was after. I would prefer the white instead. The LED's I used do not appear to have any hint of blue when on. One company I spoke with said I needed to buy a new metal face from them in order to have white backlighting again since to OE gauge face has a blue tint on the back that cannot be removed. Anyone else had this issue? When I look online at all the vendors that sell these LED's dash conversion kit's I always see white as well as the blues, greens, reds, etc. How do they do it? Any help would be great. Thanks
Coby7 Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 Nope you just installed the wrong colour LED. The GM overlay has a blue filter to filter out the yellow from incandescent bulbs. If you install white LEDs you will get a blue tinge like this. But if you install warm white LEDs you will get a close to factory colour. and of course if you install blue LEDs you will get even bluer background. You could go green....lol or red.
Coby7 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Here's even more help, avoid ebay altogether. http://www.led-switch.com/12%20volt%20LED.htm
Coby7 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 More help and info for you do-it-yourself'ers. In order to minimize hotspots grind down the lens a bit and to make them easier to surface mount on the circuit board islands bend the leads at the notches 90° like this. End product. To identify + or - after leads are cut you can do this several ways. If your eyes are good you can see the black carbon resistor on top of the (+) anode. Or you can see that the cathode which has a triangular shape is quite obvious, but not always the case. Or you can always feel the straight edge on the bottom of the LED on the (-) cathode side. This is just extra info, you can actually see the gold wire that goes from the resistor to the LED substrate highlighted in yellow here.
SlickMcVega Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Interesting, is there a write up link on this?
Coby7 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 What more do you need to know? Ask away! Maybe polarity on the board...Arrow points to negative, this is good for GM trucks 03-07 classic only.
SlickMcVega Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Oh I have a 2001 Tahoe. Nvm. Ive just never torn a cluster apart and been inside of it, so I literally know zip about it lol
SG Lou Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Coby7 is the go to guy for LED Info......He steered me in the right direction
Coby7 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Oh I have a 2001 Tahoe. Nvm. Ive just never torn a cluster apart and been inside of it, so I literally know zip about it lol I repair those also, what's your issue? display gone dead I bet!!!
SG Lou Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 More help and info for you do-it-yourself'ers. In order to minimize hotspots grind down the lens a bit and to make them easier to surface mount on the circuit board islands bend the leads at the notches 90° like this. End product. To identify + or - after leads are cut you can do this several ways. If your eyes are good you can see the black carbon resistor on top of the (+) anode. Or you can see that the cathode which has a triangular shape is quite obvious, but not always the case. Or you can always feel the straight edge on the bottom of the LED on the (-) cathode side. This is just extra info, you can actually see the gold wire that goes from the resistor to the LED substrate highlighted in yellow here. I'm curious ? Do you attempt to polish the ground down area after or leave it dull and rough to diffuse the light ?
Coby7 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Coby7 is the go to guy for LED Info......He steered me in the right direction I see you have a Corvette as your avatar, drove these all my life and just recently sold my last one. Had a 59, then a 63 then my favourite a 75 then an 84. Will not get an other one since I'm 60 and just don't get the enjoyment out of them any more. I would really like to get a small convertible for summer cruising but could not justify $43,000 for a FIAT spyder 124. Wish GM made an affordable sportster like the MX5. Don't need power for a Sunday summer cruise.
SG Lou Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Oh come on I see you have a Corvette as your avatar, drove these all my life and just recently sold my last one. Had a 59, then a 63 then my favourite a 75 then an 84. Will not get an other one since I'm 60 and just don't get the enjoyment out of them any more. I would really like to get a small convertible for summer cruising but could not justify $43,000 for a FIAT spyder 124. Wish GM made an affordable sportster like the MX5. Don't need power for a Sunday summer cruise. ........60 is just a number. I'm 57 and still enjoy the hell out of that car. I have had several as well but never anything older the a 78.
Coby7 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 I'm curious ? Do you attempt to polish the ground down area after or leave it dull and rough to diffuse the light ? Leave it dull, you want the maximum of light to exit the sides into the refractor of the cluster.
SG Lou Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Leave it dull, you want the maximum of light to exit the sides into the refractor of the cluster. That's what I figured ! Thanks Again my GOOD MAN !
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