Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I guess my truck is feeling its age, 03 SIlverado 4x4, 42,000 miles.

 

FOB stopped opening doors, just out of the blue

 

so I replaced batteries with some I knew were good, no soap.

 

took fob to orielly's and according to their counter machine they are transmitting fine.

 

So I did the following per a download on the WWW for an 03 SIlverado: Several times.

 

If Your Silverado Doesn't Have a Vehicle Information Center (pre-2007)

Step 1: Sit in the vehicle with all the doors closed and unlocked. Insert the key into the ignition. Do not turn the key until directed.

Step 2: Press and hold the Unlock button on the driver's side door. You will hear the locks make two clunking noises, indicating they have completed an unlock/lock cycle. Continue to hold down the Unlock button.

Step 3: While holding down the Unlock button, turn the key to the accessory power position then back to the off position. Repeat turning the key from the accessory power position to the off position for a total of two cycles.

Step 4: Release the Unlock button. Your Silverado will automatically cycle the locks as it did in Step 2.

Step 5: Simultaneously hold down the Lock and Unlock buttons on your fob for 15 seconds.

Step 6: Program any additional remotes for repeating Step 6 for each remote. Up to four remotes can be programmed.

Step 7: Exit programming mode by starting your Silverado. Turn off the vehicle and test your remotes.

 

AGAIN No Soap

 

Does anyone know if the sync instructions are valid for 03 Silverdo? If not, where can I find the correct?

 

OR

 

is this a dealer or lock smith issue?

 

thanks folks

Posted

That is the right procedure. Does your truck go into programming mode after step 4? These FOBs are a bit odd, they will lose half the protocol after a 12 years. I sell and program lots of these every year. I check the FOB and it transmits but doesn't work on the truck. A good one sends 4 streams of code where these when they fail only send 2. I will make a little video and post it here.

 

You US guys can get these for cheap on amazon.com and these are of better quality than OEM.

 

https://www.amazon.com/KeylessOption-Keyless-Remote-Control-Replacement/dp/B00KTIAREM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486069494&sr=8-1&keywords=gm+2003+fob

Posted (edited)

That is the right procedure. Does your truck go into programming mode after step 4? These FOBs are a bit odd, they will lose half the protocol after a 12 years. I sell and program lots of these every year. I check the FOB and it transmits but doesn't work on the truck. A good one sends 4 streams of code where these when they fail only send 2. I will make a little video and post it here.

 

You US guys can get these for cheap on amazon.com and these are of better quality than OEM.

 

https://www.amazon.com/KeylessOption-Keyless-Remote-Control-Replacement/dp/B00KTIAREM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486069494&sr=8-1&keywords=gm+2003+fob

 

 

Well you are a wealth of info on all fronts;

 

If you mean does it "Your Silverado will automatically cycle the locks as it did in Step 2"..........nope, does nothing. Locks do not budge, everything quiet.

 

Believe I will wait and see your video...

 

thanks Coby

 

so maybe Orielly's counter machine lights up with just two streams of code

Edited by GreasyHands
Posted (edited)

Here's that little video if it will work... The good FOB is on the left and the bad one is on the right even though it still transmits it's a dud.

 

 

Edited by Coby7
Posted

 

 

Well you are a wealth of info on all fronts;

 

If you mean does it "Your Silverado will automatically cycle the locks as it did in Step 2"..........nope, does nothing. Locks do not budge, everything quiet.

 

If it doesn't cycle the locks in step 4 then you have an other problem. Maybe the fuse for the RCDLR is burnt. Let me see see if I can identify it.

Posted

Here's that little video if it will work... The good FOB is on the left and the bad one is on the right even though it still transmits it's a dud.

 

 

 

 

Well that video was straight forward and sums it up. I guess it could be the same situation at Orielly's when I tested them there. They just had a little receiver at the counter with a couple of lights on it. Interesting

Posted

If it doesn't cycle the locks in step 4 then you have an other problem. Maybe the fuse for the RCDLR is burnt. Let me see see if I can identify it.

 

Looks like I have another problem alright, or maybe two. The one fob has not operated for a long time. This other fob just stopped a few days ago

 

Boy the little challenges I have experienced with this truck. It runs well, but just a laundry list of little things. Intermediate steering shaft, instrument cluster, tow haul switch, over cab lights never connected, parasitic drain, rotors, rusted brake lines and fuel lines......when I got the truck it had 28k miles and was under coated with periodic touch ups. My brother in law has a 03 nearly the same and he did have intermediate steering shaft, but nothing else......

Posted (edited)
Did you say you replaced batteries in both FOBs at the same time? If yes then you need to do a resynchronisation. High lighted that in red here.


Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) System Operation

If your vehicle has this feature, you can lock and unlock your doors from about 3 feet (1 m) up to 30 feet (9 m) away using the remote keyless entry transmitter supplied with your vehicle.


UNLOCK: Pressing this button once will unlock the driver's door. The parking lamps will flash and the interior lights will come on. The ground illumination lamps will come on. Pressing UNLOCK again within three seconds will cause the remaining doors to unlock. The parking lamps will flash and the interior lights will come on.


LOCK: Pressing this button once will lock all of the doors. Wait one second, then press LOCK again and the horn will chirp.



Operating the keyless entry transmitter may interact with the theft-deterrent system. See Content Theft-Deterrent .


Remote Alarm

When the panic button with the horn symbol on the keyless entry transmitter is pressed, the horn will sound and the headlamps and taillamps will flash for up to 30 seconds. This can be turned off by pressing the panic button again, waiting for 30 seconds, or starting the vehicle.


Matching Transmitter(s) to Your Vehicle

Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle. If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have a maximum of four transmitters matched to it.


Battery Replacement

Under normal use, the battery in your remote keyless entry transmitter should last about two years.


You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won't work at the normal range in any location. If you have to get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works, it's probably time to change the battery.


Notice: When replacing the battery, do not touch any of the circuitry on the transmitter. Static from your body could damage the transmitter.


To replace the battery in the keyless entry transmitter do the following:






Insert a dime, or similar object, in the slot between the covers of the transmitter housing near the key ring hole. Remove the bottom by twisting the dime.

Remove and replace the battery with a three-volt CR2032 or equivalent battery, positive (+) side up.

Align the covers and snap them together.

Resynchronize the transmitter.

Check the operation of the transmitter.

Resynchronization

Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by this system. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver will not respond to a signal that has been sent previously. This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter.


To resynchronize your transmitter, stand close to your vehicle and press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter at the same time for 15 seconds. The door locks should cycle to confirm synchronization. If the locks do not cycle, see your dealer for service.

Edited by Coby7
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Also the procedure you have fails to mention that you have a limited time to do this, once you insert the key and press and hold the unlock button you only have like 10-15 seconds to cycle the ignition twice or it will not work. Here is the written procedure I use and it works every time. Make sure all doors are unlocked before you start.

 

1. Close all vehicle doors.

2. Insert the key into the ignition.

3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver’s door panel-continue to hold
down until instructed to release in step 9.

4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the
engine).

6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock
the doors automatically.

10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until
the door locks and unlocks.
This step may take up to 30 seconds.

11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing
transmitters).

12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming
mode.

Edited by Coby7
  • Like 1
Posted

9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock
the doors automatically.

 

I did replace batteries at the same time, but one fob previously replaced long ago and was inop then to now. Several years past.

 

Locks cycled per # 9, but so soap on fobs.

 

Also, followed instructions in red too the letter, so soap

 

Time to write amazon an order?????? What ya think?

 

thanks a ton

Posted

If door locks cycled that means your RCDLR went into programming mode. You then have to hold the lock and unlock buttons for sometimes almost 30 seconds for each FOB.

Posted

If door locks cycled that means your RCDLR went into programming mode. You then have to hold the lock and unlock buttons for sometimes almost 30 seconds for each FOB.

 

Sorry Coby7, I wrote an incomplete response. I indeed held the unlock and lock buttons on the fob for at least 30 seconds, followed each step per your instructions.. No soap.

 

I can try again tomorrow to ensure no miscues, but I followed your instructions to the T on the sync as well.

 

If the relay you stated is working then maybe the fob just gave up the ghost..its nearly 15 years old. Like I say, one has not worked for years, the other stopped just a couple of days ago.

 

your thoughts, and thanks

Posted

Sounds like the RCDLR is bad. IE the Passenger Door Switch.

 

You can find them pretty cheap on ebay just make sure if you have TPMS you get the correct PDM RCDLR

 

PDM US RFA = Non TPMS

PDM US RFA TPM = TPMS

  • Like 1
Posted

Okay, I think you have proven that your FOBs have failed just order a new one and try programming it. Cheapest route for now.

Posted

Okay, I think you have proven that your FOBs have failed just order a new one and try programming it. Cheapest route for now.

 

We will know in a few days, Ordered!

 

Will report back. thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No.   That would be an LT and higher trim.  Passive entry.   WT and Custom do not get this feature.  
    • Mediocre, how much did they lose on the poorly conceived EV strategy?   I wonder how much the stock price is being 'inflated' by all the buy-backs?   Cadillac literally looks like a brand without a rudder, no clear goals or product direction - performance or luxury? I guess performance because we can throw a small block in whatever we can and call it a day. Certainly not luxury when a Denali or High Country is reasonably cross shoppable. The Celestiq - no way - no vehicle can command quarter million prices when something wearing the same badge is on the buy here pay here lot across town.   Notice the 'base' Escalade doesn't even come with the 'leather-appointed' seating surfaces.   Hummer EV - fail Silverado EV - fail Sierra EV - fail Bolt/Volt EV (The most successful EV cancelled, restarted, cancelled, whatever its current status it)   Hybrids - none Sedans - none Medium duty - not anymore Minivan - none Coupe - none Convertible - none CUVs - 20+/-   6.2 Recall that landed squarely on the GMs highest seller - and specifically the fattest margin higher trims of the Yukon, Escalade, et. al. The most critical product line they fumbled big time. In the Escalade segment, are those buyers forgiving GM for a bad engine and patiently waiting for the fixes and dealing with the headaches? Nope, they dump them and go straight to the other premium brands.   In the ENTIRE GM portfolio how many aspirational vehicles are there? Corvette, Escalade (quickly being superseded by the obvious better value Denali)...   I posted somewhere else... what if Cadillac left the luxury game and became a performance brand similar to AMG or (gasp) Ferrari? Cut all the entry-level and base models from their line up and focus on the V-series or Blackwing or whatever they call it now. Of course, those would have the pre-requisite luxury and technology as standard equipment. This opens the floor for Buick to step in/up as the luxury brand (like they are in China), no 'performance pretenses' get rid of the 'entry-level' models with equally 'entry-level' power trains and become the Maybach to Cadillacs AMG. With those two brands effectively out of the way Chevrolet, the 'entry-level' brand has the floor to itself and GMC can take over as 'professional grade'.    Now each brand has a focus, no in-fighting, clear direction, and customer targets.   Just need to sneakily slide Corvette into the Cadillac brand and dump the vestigial script writing.
    • I can't get enthusiastic about the 1.5T (or the 1.3 or the 1.2), I won't drive a CVT. But the stupid things sell in volume.
    • There is a big difference in motorcycles and vehicles - nobody needs a motorcycle, they WANT one. That WANT is the most powerful force to drive price upwards.   I've hated every iteration of the Equinox, a prime example of GM laziness. It excelled at absolutely nothing, barely competitive by every metric. At least the latest generation looks decent.    I want to like the Buick Envista, but that pitiful engine plus FWD only is a BIG NO for me, I don't care how good it looks.
    • For as much hate as Ms. Barra receives on here, she sure is a shrewd businesswoman....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...