Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know this is an old thread but did anyone have a solution for this fix with the OP. I have the same issues with my 2017 Sierra 

  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/24/2019 at 11:50 PM, T.scheich said:

I know this is an old thread but did anyone have a solution for this fix with the OP. I have the same issues with my 2017 Sierra 

Yes, I had the same problem with a leveling kit using 33"tires. It was really bad when towing. The dealership recalibrated all sensors which helped, but the final fix was purchasing rough country's tire size calibrator $150. I have the edge programmer which fixes speedo but not the stability control. RC programmer does both computers(speedo & stability) . Yes it will work if you stack both programmers but first do edge then RC. Edge will over write RC and then it will feel like nothing helped. Unprogram in reverse order and it will go back to stock, but with most programmers the dealership can see traces. They can always reprogram back to stock for .5 hours of labor. 

Edited by Abiker21
Notify for replies
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/23/2017 at 1:37 PM, wyomingcolt said:

zcusker:

 

Ok, now someone else feels my pain. So I WORK for a GM Dealer. I also have a leveling kit on my 17 Sierra 6.2. I have the EXACT same issue. You aren't gunna like what I have to tell you. So, for 6 months, my GM service department has done the following to my truck all with a whopping 3400 miles on the odometer to remedy this:

-Replaced left front hub-found stuff slung inside it. Didn't fix issue

-Reset Ride control to zero more than 6 times

-Reset Steering angle sensor more than 6 times

-Reset Yaw/Stability sensor more than 6 times

-Per GM Tac line, graphed all 4 ABS sensors while I drove and the tech sat next to me with laptop. All graphed correctly

-Removed leveling kit and put the ACTUAL factory tires BACK on. NO DIFFERENCE MADE! Problem still there

 

Also, since we have like 10 trucks like this in stock all factory fresh, I DID get ONE of them to do this at FACTORY specs! Also, we have a GM AUTHORIZED truck conversion company that builds HUNDREDS of lifted trucks a year. I have 2 of them in stock NOW. These baby's are 6 Inch TOTAL lift jobs with 35" Humungous tires on them, NEITHER of them do this. I called the company that builds them, they never heard of such a thing EVER and they have build dozens of 17's with full lifts.

 

So, yes, holding the Stabilitrak/TC button WILL shut off the Stabilitrak(which is for sure your issue, not traction control) HOWEVER, it is set to come BACK on at 30 MPH and your abs module will start activating again. How do you remedy this? Well, you aren't gunna like this, but here's what I had to do 3 months ago. Pull fuse 3 under hood, then you will permanently get Service ABS, Service Stablitrak, Service trailer brake control on EVERY day, AND you WILL NOT HAVE CRUISE control! Same damn fuse. So for 3 months on a $65k truck, I have driven around with NO ABS/Stablitrak/Cruise control because it is actually SAFER than being on the highway exit ramp and having my ABS start pumping my brakes. This concern is DIRECTLY related to Stablitrak and all the inputs that activate Stabilitrak. So, that could mean the Stabilitrak module, ABS sensors/hubs, Yaw sensor, tires, the pitch of the vehicle since it is taller, Ride height control, Ride control reset, etc, etc.

 

My fine truck also has had to have 2 factory power running boards replaced, windshield(factory defects), right hand mirror replaced, and my THIRD torque converter just arrived today. Yes, 2 torque converters in 3400 miles. Since I work at a GM Dealership, I feel I am being ignored by GM. We have called Tac line many times. Nothing fixes the issue. If you DO find a fix, PLEASE contact me! We will NOT be the only ones having this issue that I can assure you. You are just the second person I have seen with the issue besides myself.

 

GM employee people, this is an issue. I am an indirect employee of yours. I am being brushed aside. I have been here for over 21 years at the same dealership. I have sold THOUSANDS of GM vehicles. I need answers NOW. I know some of you watch these Forums. Please contact me ASAP! This is unacceptable.

Ugh!!! Wish i read these forums before buying! I got it used with quite a few miles and the dealership had already lifted it and put 36” tires on it. I first noticed the steering wheel wasn’t straight even though it was driving straight. They said they may have not set it when doing the lift and it’s an easy fix.

 

Sometimes stabilitrak just shuts off on its own as well as steering assist and then it drives fine. But if it doesn’t shut off it starts yanking my truck around. Is it ok to just pull that fuse as you suggest?

 

i really don’t know a ton about trucks and i feel so dumb but none of this happened when I test drove it. 
 

Is there anything else I should look into on my truck? 

Posted
4 hours ago, Ammo1024 said:

Is it ok to just pull that fuse as you suggest?

Welcome to the site.

 

Thinking if you pull a fuse associated with Stabilitrak, the other "nannies" are not going to be happy, meaning your are going to get CEL's.

 

Take it somewhere you trust, and have them see if there are any codes stored. Are you getting the CEL on/flashing when the truck displays the messages? 

Posted

I don’t get any CELs it just lets me know the stabilitrak is off… but it doesn’t always shut off and when it’s on is when i have the problems. I don’t care if i have any lights on the dashboard but he did say it would also effect ABS and cruise, i don’t care about cruise just not sure if ABS will be an issue

Posted
3 hours ago, Ammo1024 said:

I don’t get any CELs it just lets me know the stabilitrak is off… but it doesn’t always shut off and when it’s on is when i have the problems. I don’t care if i have any lights on the dashboard but he did say it would also effect ABS and cruise, i don’t care about cruise just not sure if ABS will be an issue

Is your speedometer correct or does it read slower than you are traveling?

Posted
2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

Is your speedometer correct or does it read slower than you are traveling?

Yes i k ow that for sure as i passed one of those police speed scanners and it read close to the same

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I am having the same kind of issue. I changed teh stereo about a year ago. I then lifted the truck 7 inch on 35s and started having issues shortly after. I would get stabilitrak warning and service 4x4 and loss of steering assist and the power steering would go out and loss of throttle control. Chevy told me it was the stereo and they would not work on it unless I put it back to stock. So I did, they said it was fixed. I drove it a few days and took it back to the shop to put the stereo back in because the stock was not working. Issue started up again. Took it back swapped it all back to stock sill have issues. Chevy is still saying it is the aftermarket stereo. So frustrating. 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I have a 2017 LTZ with a 6.2 4 x 4
got stuck in the mud for the first time last week and we just did a whole bunch of stuff under the hood today. New radiator spark plugs, wires coils, oil change thermostat and a couple other things on my way home. I had the crew set at 65 and every time I would hit a bump, stabilizetrack would come on that would pop up on my dash and then my cruise control would shut off. I could reset it head a bump and do it again. I don’t know why all the sudden it’s doing it. I had this truck for four years never had a problem. it has to be something to do with me getting stuck in the mud the other day I don’t know why has anybody had this problem thank you and have a good one 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...