2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - Issues & Help

PeterJr · March 8, 2017

Hello, My name is Peter and I drive a 2005 Silverado 2500HD W/T. I bought the truck used and am having some issues with it. I am wondering if someone can shed some light on what is going with it.

First off, here are some details on the truck:

2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

W/T Package

Regular Cab

104,000 miles

I think it has a lift / the keys are turned

1. Steering. I replaced the steering box recently and now the steering wheel is off center. I am 90% sure I replaced it centered so I am not sure why it is off. I tried adjusting the box but all that did is make the steering more stiff. Do I fix this by adjusting the tie rods?

2. Grinding on take off. When taking off on an incline or under load I can feel a grinding coming from (what I think) is the drive shaft / u-joint. It also happens if I take my foot off of the brake and "glide" with no gas / throttle - there is a subtle grinding / rough feeling somewhere in the drivetrain. Differential? U-Joint? Drive Shaft?

3. Rough Ride. REALLY rough ride. When going over any bump it is violent. I replaced the front shocks and this did not make much difference. I think it is because the keys are turned. Does anyone know how I would fix this?

4. Steering Stabilizer Links. Is it possible for these to be too tight / overturned? I replaced them and am not sure if I tightened them too much.

5. Blocks under leaf springs. Does anyone know if the truck comes stock with blocks? It looks like I have a 1 1/2" - 2" block under the leaf springs. When the truck is loaded it also does not hit the "helper block" located above the rear axle which makes me think there is a lift on the truck.

6. Starting. When I have a plow on the truck it is like the truck does not want to start. I turn the key and nothing happens. Lights come on but not anything more than that.

7. Wiring. Does anyone know the best place to fish a + & - wire to the battery from the rear bed? I recently purchased a dump insert and need to install the wiring from the insert to the battery.

I know this is a lot so thank you to anyone who can shed some light on this. I appreciate it!!

Peter

davester · March 8, 2017

1. Assuming the steering box is properly installed flush to the frame, yes, you would adjust the tie rods to re-center the steering wheel. If you do them evenly (same number of turns on each side), you shouldn't need to get an alignment.

2. could be diff, could be transmission, could be u-joints, could be center support bearing if you have a 2-piece driveshaft, could be bearings in rear axle. I would suggest first taking out driveshaft and checking u-joints and center support bearing. you may have to take the u-joints out to actually check them (I've had several that seemed fine, no play or stiffness, but when removed they showed they definitely needed to be replaced).

3. did you replace the front shocks with stock ones or longer than stock? Supposedly, it helps somewhat to get longer shocks when the keys are turned to raise the front. However, if you want it to ride properly, turn the keys back down and use the stock shock length or get a properly lift kit, which raises the truck, but keeps all the control arm angles at the proper settings.

4. yes, it is. I believe it depends on the manufacturer as to how tight they should be...should have been instructions with them if non-oem. If OEM, then google for how to tighten them.

5. no idea about the blocks.

6. does it start fine if you disconnect the plow electrical connection? maybe it is putting too much of a draw on the battery for some reason?

7. the main harness is along the drivers side frame, you can run the wires along/in there.

PeterJr · March 9, 2017

Hi davester,

First off, I appreciate the response. It is a huge help.

1. I will try adjusting the tie rods and see what happens.

2. I do not have a two piece drive shaft but I am thinking I will start with the u-joints.

3. I replaced the front shocks with KYB Excel-G's which are supposed to "restore orginal ride quality" so I am guessing they are the same length as stock. There were skyjackers on there prior that were completely dead. I am going to try to turn the keys down a bit to get it closer to stock now that the dump insert is in the bed and it weighing down the rear a bit.

5. Someone on another forum said they do come with blocks they just did not know what the height was on the stock blocks. I am guessing mine are not stock because when the truck is loaded it does not hit the bump stops - there is still several inches to go.

6. I tend to think it is the battery as well because ever since the plow came off I have not had the issue. I also wonder if it may be the starter?

7. I am planning to go that route just have not gotten to it yet. It is still cold out here!!

Again, thanks for the reply it is much appreciated.

davester · March 10, 2017

if it starts fine without the plow, but is harder to start with the plow, then I would think something is iffy about the plow's connection to the truck...

PeterJr · March 13, 2017

It is definitely only when the plow is on. I hooked up the plow today for the incoming storm and everything has been fine since last time it was on. Today when starting, it was having trouble again. I got the battery tested and everything checked out OK with the battery. I wonder if it could be the starter?

I have been paying more attention to the grinding / vibration issue happening in the drivetrain somewhere and today when idling and moving at about 1 mph I could feel the vibration / grinding subtly. It is difficult to explain but it is almost like a feeling where something is trying to "catch" something else and it is quite quick even though I am moving so slow. The truck moves fine it is just this grinding / vibration that concerns me. I am concerned something is all of a sudden going to happen one day. As a reminder this also happens on an incline and also happens under load.

Thanks for the help.

Peter

dewfpo · March 13, 2017

I have to agree, there must be a problem with the plow's wiring, either on the plow itself or the connections on your truck. If it starts fine without the plow on, it's the plow (with it's associated wiring), not your battery or starter.

DEWFPO

PeterJr · March 14, 2017

dewfpo, your profile says you drive a 2005 2500HD. If your truck is stock (and you are up to it) could you tell me if you have any blocks under your rear leaf springs and if so, what size do you think they are? I am trying to find out if I have stock blocks or not. Thanks a lot,

Peter