Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 5/13/2020 at 11:02 AM, Cojoflo said:

What do you do if you only have 1 programmed key, and one blank for a ‘17 Silverado? 

Did you ever figure out what you have to do to program a second key if you only have one working for the 2017 Silverado. I have a second cut key that need program and it requires 2 working.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 6/1/2017 at 9:27 PM, tbarn said:

Just an FYI. This exact process will not work on a '17. There is a process but requires 2 "known" keys to learn new keys. GM has upped security for '17.

I’m trying to program a new spare key. I just tried to do it few minutes ago and it didn’t work. I went in this forum and read your post. Thank you for sharing it.  I do have 2 known keys with me.  Do you happen to know how to program it with 2 known keys?

Posted
2 hours ago, whosgregm said:

I’m trying to program a new spare key. I just tried to do it few minutes ago and it didn’t work. I went in this forum and read your post. Thank you for sharing it.  I do have 2 known keys with me.  Do you happen to know how to program it with 2 known keys?

Adding Keys (Without SPS)

Note:

  • To initiate, this procedure requires that 2 learned key be available.
  • A total of eight keys maybe be learned to a single vehicle.
  • This procedure adds keys only. The procedure does not erase previously learned keys.
  • The keys to be learned must duplicate the mechanical cut of the current key.

Note:

  • When verifying operation, make sure that no other transmitters are near the vehicle.
  • If key fails to learn repeat steps 1-6 paying close attention to the time limits at each step.
  1. With a previously learned key, turn the ignition ON.
  2. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
  3. With a second previously learned key, turn the ignition ON.
  4. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
  5. Within 10 seconds of turning OFF the ignition, insert the key to be learned and turn ON/RUN position (do not turn to the crank position). Keep key in the ON/RUN position for 5 seconds and the theft light turns off. The vehicle has now learned the new key.

    Note:

    • Step 5 can be repeated until a maximum of 8 keys are learned (including 2 factory keys) to the vehicle.
    • Be sure to keep other keys and transmitters at least 12 in (30 cm) away from the ignition cylinder while learning.
  6. Verify each transmitter and key is operating properly. Remove key from the ignition cylinder and wait 30 seconds. Insert the key into the ignition cylinder and start vehicle.
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Very old thread, but hopefully someone will chime in.

   SO basic a question, but I gotta ask.  Realizing these (straight edge, center cut) keys have chips in them and along with the fobs they need to be programmed to work for our vehicle.  But, do the "cuts" in the keys for a particular vehicle need to match? I would assume they MUST match...??

 My situation:

  I have an '18 Silverado,  have an original key and fob, misplaced the 2nd set so I needed replacements. 

   ...went on Ebay and purchased a new "OEM GM" key and fob (from separate sellers). The fob showed up, in a new UNopened GM package, all good there.  The key however (from what appears to be a reputable seller), listed as a "New OEM GM key blank..." was in a GM package (albeit opened, taped shut) ...already has a CUT pattern in it.

   I'm already in the process of returning it, since it's listed as a "BLANK", and if it's cut (which it is), ...it's not "blank" in my opinion.  I would think a cut key is good for only one lock cylinder, so a new cut key is useless to me, unless it matches my truck, ...yet what's puzzle me is I see multiple sellers selling what they are calling "blanks", yet the keys have cuts.

 

  Thanks in advance for any info,

  

  Kevin

 

 

GM# 84540865 (Fob)

GM#23209422 (key)

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, KevinK7 said:

Very old thread, but hopefully someone will chime in.

   SO basic a question, but I gotta ask.  Realizing these (straight edge, center cut) keys have chips in them and along with the fobs they need to be programmed to work for our vehicle.  But, do the "cuts" in the keys for a particular vehicle need to match? I would assume they MUST match...??

 My situation:

  I have an '18 Silverado,  have an original key and fob, misplaced the 2nd set so I needed replacements. 

   ...went on Ebay and purchased a new "OEM GM" key and fob (from separate sellers). The fob showed up, in a new UNopened GM package, all good there.  The key however (from what appears to be a reputable seller), listed as a "New OEM GM key blank..." was in a GM package (albeit opened, taped shut) ...already has a CUT pattern in it.

   I'm already in the process of returning it, since it's listed as a "BLANK", and if it's cut (which it is), ...it's not "blank" in my opinion.  I would think a cut key is good for only one lock cylinder, so a new cut key is useless to me, unless it matches my truck, ...yet what's puzzle me is I see multiple sellers selling what they are calling "blanks", yet the keys have cuts.

 

  Thanks in advance for any info,

  

  Kevin

 

 

GM# 84540865 (Fob)

GM#23209422 (key)

 

Looks like they sold you some cut key someone never came for as that's an old # for a GM cut key.  

 

The keys must be cut to match your existing key/cylinder.  Current blank # is 13523900.  

 

Edited by newdude
Posted
54 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

Looks like they sold you some cut key someone never came for as that's an old # for a GM cut key.  

 

The keys must be cut to match your existing key/cylinder.  Current blank # is 13523900.  

 

Thanks! ..especially for the quick reply.  

Posted

If you gave them the VIN for your truck, I suppose they may be able to cut the blank for your specific vehicle, but otherwise, it would be a fluke if it worked for your truck (but it is possible, as there are reports of people going to the wrong vehicle in parking lots, and using their key to open/start the vehicle, only to find out later it's the wrong one).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...