Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Purchased the opt7 aura led kit and I found a constant hot source for the lights but the kit comes with an Secondary power source I can hook up the dome light to but I can't figure out the wire, I've looked around and seen the grey wire was it but I tapped into it and it didn't work. Just a small project I'm doing ! Hope I can get some help.

Appreciate it

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Posted

Here's a pic of the BCM. The far left grey connector. The bottom right corner grey wire is the dome lamp circuit. It's Pin # 1.

 

Hope this helps.

 

72b7b10e2a6f07c17fbbfa6d07c476ed.jpg

 

0e03f6494d563b2db27da91b037ed94b.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Many of us tapped this location as well. Are you sure you are grounded well?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Many of us tapped this location as well. Are you sure you are grounded well?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a ground wire I can tap into that you know of ? I'm wondering because right now I have the main power source grounded to a bolt and then I spliced the secondary ground into that main ground, shouldn't that work ? The lights come on from the main power source but when hooked up to dome light they don't?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Posted

Purchased the opt7 aura led kit and I found a constant hot source for the lights but the kit comes with an Secondary power source I can hook up the dome light to but I can't figure out the wire, I've looked around and seen the grey wire was it but I tapped into it and it didn't work. Just a small project I'm doing ! Hope I can get some help.

Appreciate it

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

What year of truck? I installed the same kit but my wires were different.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Posted

Purchased the opt7 aura led kit and I found a constant hot source for the lights but the kit comes with an Secondary power source I can hook up the dome light to but I can't figure out the wire, I've looked around and seen the grey wire was it but I tapped into it and it didn't work. Just a small project I'm doing ! Hope I can get some help.

Appreciate it

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

This is how I did it. My Opt7 box is tucked in with the fuse box on the drivers side. I can take pics if you want.

 

e106af74e4c4297dff88fa744b59431e.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

This is how I did it. My Opt7 box is tucked in with the fuse box on the drivers side. I can take pics if you want.

 

e106af74e4c4297dff88fa744b59431e.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

This is the same dome lamp circuit that's in the BCM in the photo I showed. That X61A box can be a pain to get to for some. There are several places to tap this circuit.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes please

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

This is how I did it. My Opt7 box is tucked in with the fuse box on the drivers side. I can take pics if you want.

 

e106af74e4c4297dff88fa744b59431e.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Yes please show me.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Posted

This is the same dome lamp circuit that's in the BCM in the photo I showed. That X61A box can be a pain to get to for some. There are several places to tap this circuit.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you take more pictures?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Can you take more pictures?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

If you want to tap the circuit in the X61A Box...

 

This is the X61A Box, remove the black cover.

47e2348313dda25fd7a687583e319c69.jpg

 

4e37a226cc7a8130bf3ffca4178d0d1b.jpg

 

This is the dome circuit. There will only be one wire there. I cut, stripped, and recrimped a 2nd wire. I am using this for my footwell lighting.

67b2deb0f7b504955dac77f98947ca52.jpg

 

This is your 12v source, then ground to the newest bolt or to the black wire in the lower left corner.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

If you want tap in the BCM...

 

5ddc5598eff8a688dc5c08ca161dc53a.jpg

 

7f21092bed9b6d5fd6107b22c991f345.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Can you take more pictures?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Ok so my power cord to is is ran from the engine area on the drivers side. The negative is grounded to the firewall as seen in the picture with the relay. The power is in the fuse box in there as well. It's the orange wire with a fuse connected to the positive wire. In the last picture you can see it fits with the fuse box on the drivers side. The negative is grounded there in picture 3. The positive is wired to the dome light in the picture I posted earlier. It was a pain but I got it and it works great! I have to led strips in my grill but I plan on adding the other two later. I hope this helps!7c49d9a45267e78aa9135eb8319faf2d.jpga07af7ebc6448b5180c933260e310a93.jpg9d6f9287f60eeca867be5bb2c4c48ecf.jpg5753ced54ecc0f6afee505126544764b.jpgeddc1dd1e29d21e081898de795f2142b.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yea that's pretty normal to be off a few degrees.  Usually 2-4 degrees from say a weather app or thermometer.  
    • I just replaced the ambient air temperature sensor.  Easy as pie. I simply had to remove about 10-12 clips on the plastic cover over the radiator and remove two T-10 torx screws on the hood release lever to liberate the cover (Amazingly, none of the clips broke.  All came out and went back in with zero problems). Once the cover was removed, the temp sensor is easily accessible. The sensor cable snakes through a few guides and can be pulled out for even easier access to the sensor. I was able to work the sensor out of the mounting hole.  There is a red sliding catch on the plug that must be pulled back to disconnect the cable.  The plug was quite tight.  I had to use a screwdriver to pry it out. I plugged in the new sensor ($6.45 from RockAuto), snapped it into the mounting hole and re-snaked the cable. I put the radiator cover back on and reattached the lever arm to the hood release.  All done!     I started up my Suburban.  The temperature read 82 °F. Other thermometers at my house read 80 °F.  Close enough.  It might be reading high as my vehicle was sitting in the sun.
    • Remember when you were 50 and they called you Old Man?
    • That one looks decent for the price   BUT..I want something that also supports OBDI/1.5. A lot of the prosumer-grade scanners don't have legacy support in order to keep costs low. I believe the Autel does if you go higher end with them.   For fun, I reached out to a local Snap-On rep because I was interested in the 2600. $1895 MSRP, says he can do $1595. That's still a lot, but then again, that's not a horrible discount for just asking out of the blue. Could probably do better if I was a regular buying off his truck, but I'm not.   Not sure if I mentioned but I didn't realize with USED scanners from Snap On that you need to make sure a) the serial number isn't flagged as stolen. On the newer ones, SnapOn can remotely disable the device if it's flagged in their system. And, customer service can tell you if it is, if you're thinking about buying used. B) Make sure it's paid off. If the seller still owes money to the truck or if they financed through Snap On, the device can be remotely disabled until the balance is paid. It's less clear if SnapOn will tell you if a balance is still owed; I didn't make it that far with the used model I was considering. I did read that SnapOn has no way of tracking any "truck financing" deals between the SnapOn rep and buyer, only if they financed through corporate. So there's that extra caution needed.   Still waffling on whether I go with a ~$500ish Autel/TopDon or spend bigger money. The value seems to be in the prosumer brands. I'm not giving them enough credit TBH, actual production repair shops use them daily BUT I'm still allergic to certain kinds of underdog products trying to unseat American companies with solid reputations. SnapOn's scanner isn't wholly made in the US, but it is assembled here and they have US support and probably the most proven/ robust legacy support.   Something to think about. Value, or principles? There's a $1k difference.
    • I'm thankful to live where we don't have extreme weather. We might all be blown to smithereens when Mt. Rainier goes, but 80 is warm enough in the summer and I can generally count the number of hard freezes in the winter on one hand. The cars here don't rust and they don't get sun-baked, either.   We have finished off many of our average 52 days of "clear/sunny" weather, though. Sunsets are coming earlier, the nights are a little cooler. It's right around the first week of September when we get our first warning that summer is coming to a close with overcast skies and the start of "hoodie weather" temperatures during the cooler parts of the day. By October, it's usually time to ditch the shorts. By November, it's mostly raining.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...