Jump to content

Acceleration

SilveradoSaver

By SilveradoSaver
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

I have the adjustable pedals, so pretty sure that won't work for me. I also didn't feel the flex in the pedal either.

Would this guys step by step work?

 

Sorry, I am mechanically versed but computer illiterate! All I can do is walk you through to make it easy peasy!

 

1st go to ACE Hardware and buy the White nylon/plastic Spacers "6QTY TOTAL" in this EXACT SIZE....1/8" thick and 1.125" OD the 1.250" would work too but not sure.

2nd I would use a plastic/synthetic shim instead of wood but I suppose wood works fine too...I am just that way though. Home depot sells a package of em couple bucks.

 

3rd go home and remove the plastic retainer clip on the electrical connection to accelerator the bigger one and disconnect......Look straight up and disconnect the smaller connection there is no safety clip on that one.

 

4th get a Torx drive probably 30-40 in size not sure I never looked just thought to myself it was bigger than I expected and remove the 2qty Torx bolts that attach the actual pedal to unit.

 

5th use a 10mm extended socket on a 6" extension and remove the 3qty nut/washer all in ones that hold the unit onto the plastic bracket. The nut inside the unit can only be reached through a hole and JUST BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING YOU DON't DROP the nut inside the unit.....I DID but got it with magnet just was annoying and 105 degrees out....

 

6th once the sending unit has been removed place your 2qty plastic SPACERS PER BOLT=6QTY TOTAL from ACE over the bolts that have a I.D that is just bigger that the bolt itself...I think the ID's were .300"

 

7th Place unit back onto bolts and even it out inside it's preformed position and slowly tighten up the nut/washer all in ones using a TORQUE PATTERN because it flexes and creaks and keeps getting tighter to the plastic form this way and the washers seat etc. You will know when your done because the bolts will now stick past the nut/washer just shy of 1/4" and they will be snug but can deceive you if your not careful when tightening.

 

8th put the accelerator pedal back, tighten the 2qty bolts nice and tight and place BOTH electrical connections back!

 

9th now pull the carpet and foam back/down and out of your way. CUT the 1st Inch of plastic SHIM and last 2" off so your left with the middle....Grab a prybar or cats paw or something and some decent caulk! Just shoot a bunch of caulk up under the gap behind the plastic piece that is sticking 1/8"1/4' off the metal floorboard/firewall and use your pry bar higher up on the side and pull it away more and quickly jam the shim in behind and let go with pry bar.....Still not done grab a flathead and push the shim up yet higher to really get that bugger up in there tight! Replace foam carpet etc. and you don't need to cut any of that if your wondering.

 

10th final step promptly back the pig out of driveway and rip it! It's freaking NICE all thanks to the OP!

 

Can you stack 3qty per bolt? Yeah, you probably could but I wanted to make sure I had enough bolt left and didn't want protruding awkwardly from plastic mold on the floorboard. I perfectly fine with the 2qty stacked and the finished product is very stout nothing janky/chincy about it!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SilveradoSaver Senior Enthusiast

SilveradoSaver

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Would this guys step by step work?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Possibly. Unlike the poster, I am not mechanically inclines, haha. I'd probably end up making it worse :lol: Thanks for the info though!

  • 2 weeks later...
lloydsmale Enthusiast

lloydsmale

Posted
Posted

Mine does it when its cold. Usually when I first take off in the morning. I was told on another fourm by a certified gm mechanic that it is a computer program that retards timing when cold to warm the catalytic converter up faster.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Mine does it when its cold. Usually when I first take off in the morning. I was told on another fourm by a certified gm mechanic that it is a computer program that retards timing when cold to warm the catalytic converter up faster.

Mine too....

 

OP, if this is something that has just recently started to occur, could it be the throttle body needs cleaned?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

SilveradoSaver Senior Enthusiast

SilveradoSaver

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mine too....

 

OP, if this is something that has just recently started to occur, could it be the throttle body needs cleaned?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

 

Possibly. Maybe something I will look into. Truck only has 50,000 km on it so it shouldn't be that bad. But no harm in cleaning it regardless :)

slee3247 Enthusiast

slee3247

Posted
Posted

Find a good dealership that will work with you on a tuned vehicle. If you're not racing the truck, chances are very slim that anything will go seriously wrong.

 

I'm lucky to have a great dealership 20 minutes away. It's amazing what torque management does to neuter these vehicles. (Even though it's been around since the 80s)

  • 1 year later...
boyzzsandtheirtoys33 Enthusiast

boyzzsandtheirtoys33

Posted
Posted
On 6/27/2017 at 8:01 PM, SilveradoSaver said:

So, lately I've been noticing my truck (2015 Silverado 1500 5.3L V8 Crew Cab) has been sluggish while accelerating. Not all the time; it is intermittent. Could be from a stop or from a crawl usually. I'll hit the gas and I'll feel like a hesitation and no "oomph" and then it feels like the engine seems to lurch/stagger and then I'll get the regular acceleration and then it seems to be a non-issue.

 

Any thoughts would it could be? Truck just rolled into 50,000 kms and I've got a CAI and Borla exhaust - if it matters.

 

Thanks!

If you want improve your throttle response, i highly recommend getting a throttle commander. I purchased mine a couple weeks ago and their is a night and day difference. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 342 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PhilB
      No 12v outlets in 2026 gmc Sierra

      By PhilB · Posted

      It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
    • Core-Lokt
      Wiring Help, Please

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.
    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...