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First timer Truetrac install


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I have my pile of parts arrive to install a TrueTrac in my truck. Never done any diff work before, but I'm gonna try. Does anyone have the torque specs for the carrier caps? or even the diff cover. I have a magnetic dial gauge on it's way and know I want my backlash to be .004-.01". Since I'm not changing the ring and pinion, just transferring the ring gear I shouldn't have to worry about resetting the pinion depth right? As I understand it, once I get the backlash right with shims keeping the carrier tight, I want to then press/tap in a 0.025" on each side to preload the bearings and then call it a day? I have also heard I want to chalk the ring and check for proper wear marks, but I haven't touched the pinion depth, and I have my carrier in the right spot by checking backlash, what else could be changed to make the wear marks on the ring off?

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Way over my head, but I would suggest getting a new diff cover with a magnetic drain plug, since your going through all that work. I would be nice for future fluid drains/service intervals, as the stock diff cover has no drain plug at all, you have to take it off to drain and make a mess. Also aftermarket diff covers have a larger fluid capacity.

 

I have the PML diff cover, very nice

https://www.yourcovers.com/diffcover_11129.php

 

Also b&m makes one

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Way over my head, but I would suggest getting a new diff cover with a magnetic drain plug, since your going through all that work. I would be nice for future fluid drains/service intervals, as the stock diff cover has no drain plug at all, you have to take it off to drain and make a mess. Also aftermarket diff covers have a larger fluid capacity.

 

I have the PML diff cover, very nice

https://www.yourcovers.com/diffcover_11129.php

 

Also b&m makes one

Haha I like how you think, that PML cover is already in the pile of parts! I got the raw one with upgraded stainless fasteners. It's reccomend to only use dyno gear oil with the Trutrac and change it every 30k. Having a drain plug will make life much easier, plus they have pictures of it working with the Hellwig rear sway bar I have.

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Haha I like how you think, that PML cover is already in the pile of parts! I got the raw one with upgraded stainless fasteners. It's reccomend to only use dyno gear oil with the Trutrac and change it every 30k. Having a drain plug will make life much easier, plus they have pictures of it working with the Hellwig rear sway bar I have.

Sounds good, just FYI, the drain plug that comes with the PML diff cover is great. But I didn't care for the fill plug it comes with, which is just a pipe plug. I ended up using the OEM fill plug off the OEM diff cover in the PML cover; I felt it looked better, would seal better, uses a standard bolt head instead of a Allen head as the PML fill plug had, and also the OEM fill plug has a magnet, so I just used the OEM plug now both drain and fill have magnets.

Also FYI, install both fill and drain plugs into the cover off the vehicle then take them back out, to chase the treads, then blow it off, I had some aluminum shavings from the threads, that you won't want to fall in the diff if the cover is already installed, just basically Chase and clean the threads up.

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Sounds good, just FYI, the drain plug that comes with the PML diff cover is great. But I didn't care for the fill plug it comes with, which is just a pipe plug. I ended up using the OEM fill plug off the OEM diff cover in the PML cover; I felt it looked better, would seal better, uses a standard bolt head instead of a Allen head as the PML fill plug had, and also the OEM fill plug has a magnet, so I just used the OEM plug now both drain and fill have magnets.

Also FYI, install both fill and drain plugs into the cover off the vehicle then take them back out, to chase the treads, then blow it off, I had some aluminum shavings from the threads, that you won't want to fall in the diff if the cover is already installed, just basically Chase and clean the threads up.

Thanks for the heads up Edited by thetruck454
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Pinion depth shouldn't be off, no, but you never can expect perfect manufacturing tolerances. Also, don't pick a specific shim set for bearing preload. It simply needs enough that you have to "caress" the carrier with a hammer to slide it all together.

 

Just ram it together the way it came apart and you'll probably be fine for many, many miles.

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  • 11 months later...

I ended up paying a shop to install it.  They said it was a pain to get the contact patch right and make it quiet, but it's been on for about 8k miles.  The only hiccup was the shop didn't use any thread locker on the cover bolts so driving back from hauling the ATV trailer It came loose.  I smelt it and noticed a fine oil sheen on the back of the truck and on the trailer along with the smell of gear oil.  I replaced the missing bolts and used a threadlocker that's designed to cure in the presence of oil.  When I refilled the diff I was had about 2-2.5 qts in there so it was far from dry.

 

As far as operation, I fricken love it.  It puts power down through the corners like crazy and when both tired are on tar or dirt it will light em up.   The only time it doesn't do so well is when one tire is on dirt and one is on tar, or when one tire is either up in the air or does not have very much weight on it.  So basically if there is a big traction difference between the tires it just one tire fires.  Supposedly a quick jab of the brakes will lock em back up, but I keep forgetting to do it in those moments.

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