Jump to content

Hard Wiring Led Whip


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am trying to wire my new red white and blue led whip. The wire that came with the light would not reach the front of the truck to go into the engine bay. It does reach the back and decided to try and wire it to the license plate lights. It has power but will not stay on. The whip and the license plate lights shut off. It does not blow a fuse because I can turn the light switch off and then back on and the license plate lights turn back on. Please help. I'm no electrical specialist lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

Did you just splice into your license plate lights?

 

If it was me, I would run a power wire with a fuse straight from your battery to a relay, then i would use a t-tap to grab a signal off the side marker lights in your twilight. Ground the relay then run the new power to your whip and it should come on when your taillight side marker light comes on with a nice clean/fused 12 v feed.

 

I can draw you a picture if that helps.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You can also use your license plate lights for a signal I supposed. I just wouldn't use it and expect it to provide total power.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You can also use your license plate lights for a signal I supposed. I just wouldn't use it and expect it to provide total power.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya, I will definitely take you up on tour drawing. I did just tap into the license plate lights, and like you said, I don't think it provides sufficient enough power. The whip just dies and kills the license plate lights as well.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

What's the amp draw on the whip?

4 amps

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

The beauty is you can mount all this in the engine bay and run a single wire off terminal 87 to wherever your whip is at. Then take the ground wire from the whip and screw to some metal nearby.

 

As for wiring, I use spools of trailer wire from menards and it has done well.

 

I have a plastic box my relays sit in located in the "spare battery" compartment area. The positive from my brights powers my relay so my light bars come on when my brights are on, in your case find a light is on when you want your whip on and off when you want your whip off and grab a positive signal off it.

 

I just started using positap connectors and I love them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

The beauty is you can mount all this in the engine bay and run a single wire off terminal 87 to wherever your whip is at. Then take the ground wire from the whip and screw to some metal nearby.

 

As for wiring, I use spools of trailer wire from menards and it has done well.

 

I have a plastic box my relays sit in located in the "spare battery" compartment area. The positive from my brights powers my relay so my light bars come on when my brights are on, in your case find a light is on when you want your whip on and off when you want your whip off and grab a positive signal off it.

 

I just started using positap connectors and I love them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will definitely give this a try tonight. Thank you for your help.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

The beauty is you can mount all this in the engine bay and run a single wire off terminal 87 to wherever your whip is at. Then take the ground wire from the whip and screw to some metal nearby.

 

As for wiring, I use spools of trailer wire from menards and it has done well.

 

I have a plastic box my relays sit in located in the "spare battery" compartment area. The positive from my brights powers my relay so my light bars come on when my brights are on, in your case find a light is on when you want your whip on and off when you want your whip off and grab a positive signal off it.

 

I just started using positap connectors and I love them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so now I don't know where those relays are. Fuse block in the engine bay?

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok so now I don't know where those relays are. Fuse block in the engine bay?

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

You need to add your own relays. Here's a link. Good light bar wiring diagrams, it's very similar to what you're doing with your whip.

 

Ulincos Auto Relay U1914 with 14AWG Wire Harness, 12V DC 30/40A SPDT 5-Pin (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY84HZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C-MIzbX3D5T0Z

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I am trying to wire my new red white and blue led whip. The wire that came with the light would not reach the front of the truck to go into the engine bay. It does reach the back and decided to try and wire it to the license plate lights. It has power but will not stay on. The whip and the license plate lights shut off. It does not blow a fuse because I can turn the light switch off and then back on and the license plate lights turn back on. Please help. I'm no electrical specialist lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

any information on your whip ?? maybe photo's when all hook up.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 353 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...