Jump to content

Need a model suggestion for my first resto project

Toonces

By Toonces
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

Toonces Enthusiast

Toonces

Posted
Posted

Hi. I'm new to the board and I've come to see if the good people here can help me narrow down a pickup truck model to focus on as a rebuild project. Lately I've been learning some about the 60-66 trucks and decided this is the style I'd like to focus on. But before I get into the project details, a little about myself..

I'm a self taught reasonably competent mechanic that's been doing all my car maintenance (except deep engine, clutch or trans work) for the last 20 years or so. I have some body (bondo, primer and wet sanding) experience but haven't done much in the way of dent removal or panel replacement. Although I don't have a lot of welding experience mig welding comes naturally enough. If I don't know how to do something I ask questions, and with good advice can usually get the job done.

So, what I'm looking for.. Basically I'd like to find a good, what I'd call 'atomic era' truck of early to mid 60s (or 50s possibly) to get into good shape and use as a work truck. After getting it right mechanically and with a great body and paint job, it would be used primarily to travel to bid on residential and commercial painting jobs. Basically it would be used as a selling point to illustrate the quality of work we do as a company.

Requirements for the truck is to be gas efficient, which would probably mean an in-line 6 engine paired with an auto trans w/ overdrive. And to be comfortable and drivable... meaning power steering, disc brakes and a/c. It would need to handle stop and go city driving, as well as be able to do short hops of 65 mph safely on the interstate. Hauling duties would be minimal.

The model I've gotten to know best so far are the 60-66 Chevy c10s, although I'm open to just about anything including the same era f100s or Internationals, or I even sort of like the 50s Chevy Advance Design models.

So that's about it. You guys have an opinion on what model trucks of this era would be a good candidate for what I'm looking to do?

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

 

Requirements for the truck is to be gas efficient, which would probably mean an in-line 6 engine paired with an auto trans w/ overdrive. And to be comfortable and drivable... meaning power steering, disc brakes and a/c.

 

It sounds like you are looking for a modern restoration of an older truck. You would probably have better luck looking at mid 80's trucks. You'd have a better chance of finding the equipment you want and still have a truck that will be noticed!

Doug Rosewood Enthusiast

Doug Rosewood

Posted
Posted

You will want 80s, power steering, ac..way more common in the 80s. I might also add your probably not going to be fuel efficient at all with those older engines..

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

I would go with mid 90s, new enough not to deal with R-12 ac. The electronics are fairly easy,decent overdrive trans, throttle-body carb. There're usually rust free, old enough to get attention.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

stereojnky Enthusiast

stereojnky

Posted
Posted

It sounds like you know what you're looking for. The only issue is that most of those era trucks don't have any of the things that you want. I would look for someone's failed project. One where most of the hard work is already done. Namely the disc brakes (some models require sub frame swap) a/c, engine/tranny swap, etc.

It may cost more initially, but will save you lots of time and money in the long run.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Toonces Enthusiast

Toonces

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry it's been so long to get back here but I sure appreciate all the advice. I hear ya...it's true it'd be easier to find a newer model truck considering the options I'm wanting / would need to add, but it seems like the more I look into things I'm just hooked on this early to mid 60s era truck. And now that my idea is a little more evolved I'm probably moving toward either a 63-66 c10 or f100, but probably it'll end up being the c10.

 

And thanks stereo for you advice on trying to find one of these trucks where most of the work is already done. The lesson I've learned so far is that you almost never get all the money out of one of these resto projects that you put into it...so why put yourself through all the hassle and money and just look for something that's mostly done instead?

 

Any advice on what kind of auto trans you'd pair with one of the original 6 cyl engines that came in these c10s?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 705 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...