Jump to content

1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

1SLOW1500

By 1SLOW1500
in Member Build Threads

Recommended Posts

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They are the Tial springs I would look at the 8lb or the 10lb then you aren't using as much air pressure to hold the gate close. The wastegate is mounted perfect inline with the exhaust flow but that can also cause the gate to have some issue.  

I buy a lot from MAMBA on ebay. 

I now you want to just enjoy it but down the road look at hard lines and quick connect air line fittings they are super cheap in 10 packs on amazon. The rubber breaks down and if it leaks you can cause issues or break parts. Also the quick connect makes service to the bov much easier.

  • Replies 354
  • Created
  • Last Reply
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got my trans in and wow CDT does a great job it was in a huge bag, in a box with the best packing I have ever seen in my life. I opened the box and there is a black envelope with warranty, invoice, stickers, and beer koozies. also a nice t-shirt. The trans has a emblem on the driver side also. 

So happy days.......Well no....

So now the huge trans cooler is a very tight fit where I want it. Only hits the bov a little. I want it in the nose of the truck vs under the truck. just because in my mine it is more protected from the elements. 

Bigger issue is in the rush of things I didn't research and just a few minutes ago I see a post. From this site no less and now I am conflicted on how to run the lines. looks like the trans lines go into the radiator then the condenser. So I don't have 4 nipples to go into the radiator and the condenser, not a huge deal I can order 2 more so they can all be blown out and caped off. Or do I want to try to come up with adapters to get the lines to go into the condenser?  

 

Also I have to look again but wondering if I have space for the trans cooler under the driver side battery tray down low off the frame rail? I asked some race buddies and there answer is anywhere, But one said inside frame rail on the driver side between frame and trans. Said it may use fan more as it doesn't have air flow but lines are shorter, cleaner install, for service it can be dropped with trans. Exhaust isn't on that side at all so lots of room. I don't like it any farther back then the trans, just in case that driveshaft lets go.  Only down side is the 800cfm Spal fan is loud so ideal spot is far up front.

Grumpy Bear!!!! Any know is the condenser just a single pass one end to another? If so doesn't seem worth it? YES No? Thanks 

post-129895-0-76337600-1459630137_thumb.jpg

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Your builder suggested this cooler and to bypass the factory system....entirely. I'd go with their advice. Myself, if there is room in front of the radiator. I know it's getting crowded and yes that warms the intercooler air a tad. So choice time. You want bragging rights power, or reliable power? Protection is important and yes you could mount by the trans and IF you never drive in the snow/salt or dirt...…..Anyway, you asked for my thoughts. There they are. I'm giddy! 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so the finally call was to bypass all the factory stuff. I only had the 2 nipples so I will order up either 2 more service nipples or just use a tube cuter and cap it off. The cooler is mounted to the frame on a slight angle right where the stock plastic skid plate is. my plate is cut up to clear the turbo pipes and the cooler is between those. it is low nut not scrap the ground low. so it works I would have to tear of the front air dam on a curb and keep going to hit it. So it is good. i will mod the skid plate and reinstall. I need to finish up the wiring harness I added Delphi weather pack plug for easy service and repair, I just went the simple way the instructions said and wire goes to 2nd battery. the thermostat switch controls it. 

Very interested to know what my trans temp will be. 

Still need to install my remote oil filter and the oil gauge sensors. 

I will order the 2 step now also. I will data log on the computer as my GF drives should get interesting. When I say hold brake and then with outer foot floor it. I will see how the shifts are and email log and tune to circle D.  

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So picked up truck and drove 1 mile back home with it. Fan isn't wired yet. but trans temp was at 125* So have to keep a eye on that. I will finish up the skid plate and may add different fittings so I can rise up the cooler 2". then decide how to cut the skid plate so the cooler get all the air but keep enough plate to keep crap out. The whole system is holding 3 gallon or 12 quarts right now, and that seems low so I will bleed it again and check it. 

with the stall being much higher then stock the truck doesn't move when you let off the brake. so I can increase the in gear(1) idle table. 

Hard to say in 1 mile but the shifts aren't hard at all I think my aggressive tune likes the increased flow and increased shifts in the trans. 

I look every day at the 2 step and want to buy it. but the common sense tell me i have lots of tuning to do and work under the hood. So I will wait a little more. 

I need to research what is a ideal brake in on a new trans? I am sure you are suppose to not give it all right away. 

 

OH and custom license plate. I will get a photo when it comes. I was at secretary of state for hours. but new plate is 1GMC2NV little play on words and easy to read. 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Said 2 weeks for plates hard to believe Gov. Works that fast.
I'm dieing to get outside and work on it or at least wash it. But waiting on 2 90* fitting to raise the cooler. Still hard to believe it only held 12quarts. At the cold mark.

Pic of plate I bought.875ea039724afe6cf592d487136bc15b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

First test run and it took so long just to get temp to 150*. I set tow mode and had gf drive. Odd enough temp jumped 25* when truck goes into brake assist. Any ways after about 10 miles we got to 170* then on way home I switched to manual shifts and shifted way high. And got it over 180* but never 200* like stock. And it is a 80* day. Pulled in driveway shut truck off expected to hear the fan for the trans cooler....no.
Blew the fuse. So even thought it is rated at 9.5 amps I think the hit from starting the fan is more amps. So swapped fuse and fan kicked on ran for 20 seconds and off.
Hard to say with today's experience if the 180 or less always is possible.
Oh well back to work.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

How did you cut the skid plate?

I haven't yet. The cooler is mounted between the large round front tube and the huge front member beam. But the cooler is upside down. The fan is facing the ground. So I will flip it over and lift the lowest side up some 4" so the lines and fittings are over the member and under the crank pulley. Then the skid plate will bolt right back in. 

I don't want  to cut a huge square out so was thinking Maybe 1" hole saw. Even thought about buying the 2 piece aluminum slid plate and modify it. 

Also looking at the idea of welding in a plate to the drive dive removable support then cut a large circle in plastic for the remote filter mount. Do know yet. 

1558964756478743533384849029669.jpg

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
On ‎5‎/‎25‎/‎2019 at 2:33 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

First test run and it took so long just to get temp to 150*. I set tow mode and had gf drive. Odd enough temp jumped 25* when truck goes into brake assist. Any ways after about 10 miles we got to 170* then on way home I switched to manual shifts and shifted way high. And got it over 180* but never 200* like stock. And it is a 80* day. Pulled in driveway shut truck off expected to hear the fan for the trans cooler....no.
Blew the fuse. So even thought it is rated at 9.5 amps I think the hit from starting the fan is more amps. So swapped fuse and fan kicked on ran for 20 seconds and off.
Hard to say with today's experience if the 180 or less always is possible.
Oh well back to work.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Keeping an eye on this. :D You might need that fan more than you think as the cooler doesn't get much air forced through it. Is that fan blow through or draw through? 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fan is a puller. Is is said puller is the most efficient. I agree a forced are would be best but no room with that intercooler. I believe it would be a hair better with the fan on top so a little more air off the road sees the front side.
Oh and also the diagram was wrong the trans ONLY goes into the condenser and looks like it is single row.
Wish the 2500hd had the same bumpers with the open slot in the center like the old trucks. Today I test a longer drive and expressway.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Fan is a puller. Is is said puller is the most efficient. I agree a forced are would be best but no room with that intercooler. I believe it would be a hair better with the fan on top so a little more air off the road sees the front side.
Oh and also the diagram was wrong the trans ONLY goes into the condenser and looks like it is single row.
Wish the 2500hd had the same bumpers with the open slot in the center like the old trucks. Today I test a longer drive and expressway.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Then turning it around would be good. :thumbs: 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Small update. Still need more data logs.... so I haven't changed the cooler yet. I have no will power and ordered the MSD 87331 step. I figured if I was logging the data may as log a launch. Then I thought it is plug and play but the connectors to each coil pack may show so may as well order a engine cover. 

Hope to have all logs and 2 step in before Thursday then I will take a long trip and see what normal driving temp are. 

I am more lost then ever on these temps after reading some people stat there normal drive temps around 185*  so time to find out. 

300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted
Small update. Still need more data logs.... so I haven't changed the cooler yet. I have no will power and ordered the MSD 87331 step. I figured if I was logging the data may as log a launch. Then I thought it is plug and play but the connectors to each coil pack may show so may as well order a engine cover. 
Hope to have all logs and 2 step in before Thursday then I will take a long trip and see what normal driving temp are. 
I am more lost then ever on these temps after reading some people stat there normal drive temps around 185*  so time to find out. 

I have no mods done yet to my trans or cooler. It’s pretty common for me to see 195-199*F. I’ve never seen 200*F. However, trans fluid is leaking from somewhere. It’s either where it connects to radiator or from the factory lines, so I’m going to be installing new lines to a remote cooler and bypassing the factory setup soon.

I’m thinking about adding the cooler just behind the front bumper and removing the plastic between my tow hooks for airflow. Basically, grinding out where the front license plate would go. There are two large holes in the bumper that would allow a fair amount of air in. Then it’s a matter of fabricating a trim piece to make it look decent in the front. Not sure if that’s an option for you or if flipping the fan is all that’s needed.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...