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Installed Speakers - Performance question


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Posted

2014 Sierra SLT 8" Non-Bose system

Installed front and read Memphis Audio 2 way speakers and used dynomat and crutchfield hardware to make a clean install. 

I notice the volume now has to be 3/4 of the way up to get somewhat loudness out of the setup. Crutchfield told me the stock head unit inst producing enough power most likely.

 

Can i install an amp from the Bose system or do i have to run a 4 ch amp to the speaker to get decent performance? Changing the head unit inst in the budged or something i want to do.

Posted
16 minutes ago, Ozer said:

2014 Sierra SLT 8" Non-Bose system

Installed front and read Memphis Audio 2 way speakers and used dynomat and crutchfield hardware to make a clean install. 

I notice the volume now has to be 3/4 of the way up to get somewhat loudness out of the setup. Crutchfield told me the stock head unit inst producing enough power most likely.

 

Can i install an amp from the Bose system or do i have to run a 4 ch amp to the speaker to get decent performance? Changing the head unit inst in the budged or something i want to do.

The Bose system utilizes a harness so that is out of the question. The less efficient a speaker is, the more power that is needed to bring it out. Think of it as wasted energy. Add a 4 channel amp and you should be fine. If you will be changing the dash speakers, then that will be something you may want to take into consideration when choosing a 4 channel or 6 channel amp. Get an amp that allows speaker-level inputs (aka High-level inputs) and that should be it. Adding a subwoofer or other components ultimately determines what your setup will consist of but if you just want to change door speakers, then just pick up a 4 channel amp and call it a day. Precision Power makes get budget amps, fyi. Try and match your speaker RMS to the amps RMS (make sure you look at the correct resistance of the speakers and the RMS rating for that ohm on the amp). Hope this helps.

Posted

Thanks Eric.

What about using a Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack, i saw a video that used that to power the speaker.

My intention is to do as less of wiring as possible, Alpine pack seems to deliver that.

Would like any experience on the power pack if anyone has used it.

Posted
17 minutes ago, Ozer said:

Thanks Eric.

What about using a Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack, i saw a video that used that to power the speaker.

My intention is to do as less of wiring as possible, Alpine pack seems to deliver that.

Would like any experience on the power pack if anyone has used it.

this is what i did. i have stock speakers and it was a big improvement. i set it up to be 100% plug and play behind the radio

Posted

Nice to hear, do you have any pictures or tips or where to Mount it?

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Posted

I'm just learning about this Power Pack thing. What harnesses are you using to make it plug and play, and how hard is it to install? I've always done crazy sound systems in my trucks, but I'm planning on leaving this one stock. Or at least stock-ish lol

 

Posted

Yes would love to know what plug to use vs splicing the wires

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Posted

+1 on alpine products

 

On my old ford I got the 4x100W under the passenger seat and found a scoche PnP harness that tapped the line levels. I did have to run wiring but it sounded fantastic not at all like the cheap PWM chopper amps. The newer tech I'm confident is up to snuff.

Posted

I used the following Harnesses:

 

Metra 71-2107

Metra 70-2057

 

I spliced these into each side of the amp harness, used power and ground wires also, but bypassed the amp harness, spliced into that for the amp power.  By doing that, I didn't cut a single factory wire.  Cut a hole in the side of the upper glove box and mounted it in there.

 

The only negatives is I have to keep the amp turned down due to door chimes and the infotainment voice being loud AF. 

Posted
59 minutes ago, xPredator86x said:

I used the following Harnesses:

 

Metra 71-2107

Metra 70-2057

 

I spliced these into each side of the amp harness, used power and ground wires also, but bypassed the amp harness, spliced into that for the amp power.  By doing that, I didn't cut a single factory wire.  Cut a hole in the side of the upper glove box and mounted it in there.

 

The only negatives is I have to keep the amp turned down due to door chimes and the infotainment voice being loud AF. 

Dam, that harness would have been convenient lol. 

 

I got a new DSP and was able to delay remote signal out so no more loud door chimes unless passenger forgets to put on their seat belt.

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