Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got my 295/70/18 ridges and 2.5” level put on today. Anyone else running this setup? Curious how bad it hurt your mpg and if you did anything to help the slight rubbing at full lock?

2ADB1ED3-DB14-4E73-8EA0-E7ABCB573F40.jpeg

  • Like 4
Posted

It's certainly not going to be easy on your fuel mileage lol...

Posted

No I can’t imagine it’s going to be easy on it. Lol I was getting 18-20 before. I bet it’ll be 15-17 now but who knows. 

Posted

Keep in mind your dic is now off, because of the tire size change it won't give you a true reading. Not that it's accurate in the first place. If you hand calculate it after correcting for tire size change, you'll get a true reading of mpg.

Posted
7 hours ago, Daly said:

I wouldn't be surprised if 14 is your new best. 

It should get better than 14. I have a 6" lift and 325/60r20 KO2s and get 16 mpg average on 87. 

 

As for the OP's question about rubbing, just find where it is rubbing and trim a little bit. I pulled the fender liners back on my truck and it fixed the rub I was getting at full lock in reverse.

Posted

I think this is what I'm going to run next, I currently have 275/70r18 with 2.5" Level/lift and an AAL.  I get aboud 15-17mpg in summer (I work the truck hard though), and have no rubbing issues.  As AdamJ said, just do some investigation on where it does rub and you should be able to zip tie the liners back.  I'm curious if you do trim or anything post some pics up.  I'd be interested to see how they look at full lock.

Posted

I have been getting 16ish with 35s and a 4 inch lift on my 6.2. I haven't corrected but accounting for a 7% difference I feel I am in the ballpark.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I'm running 295/70R17 Ridge grapplers which works out to about an inch smaller height but same width, my guess is you are rubbing at the minimum the inner fender, easy fix there.  Poke a hole in the fender liner and pull it back with some zip ties.  Also trim the corner of the black plastic cap with a utility knife, you should see where you are rubbing.  

 

The driver side has the e-brake cable that you might be rubbing on as well.   

20170312_135602.jpg

Edited by aaronarf
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks y’all. I can post some pics at full lock soon. I’m getting about 15 on the interstate running 75 and about 16-17 on highway running 55. Driving in town is a terrible 11 or 12 mpg. 

Posted

I have had this exact set up for about a year. I love it. I drive 60 miles to work and back home every day. The Nittos are wearing evenly and haven't gotten any louder since I put them on. Good choice and your truck looks awesome. Makes me wish I'd bought white.

resized2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
8 hours ago, RaginCajun337 said:

I have had this exact set up for about a year. I love it. I drive 60 miles to work and back home every day. The Nittos are wearing evenly and haven't gotten any louder since I put them on. Good choice and your truck looks awesome. Makes me wish I'd bought white.

resized2.jpg

Thanks! That black looks really good too.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,313 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...