Paint repair

Skidsareforkids · March 24, 2018

Hey guys. Some mother-sucker doored my truck and left no dent, but some scratches dead center of my drivers door. They’re not that big, but they drive me NUTS every time I approach the truck. I tried some of that scratch doctor crap, but these are too deep (my truck was pretty dirty, so there was abrasive in the mix). I know metallics are a nightmare, but what would y’all do?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

catpartsman · March 24, 2018

Are they too deep to buff out? If so I’d talk to a local body shop or a body shop guy about doing it after hours for cash.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear · March 24, 2018

I've repaired three larger than that with great results using touch up bottle paint and allot of patients with the sanding and polishing. One was a quarter inch wide and three quarter long all the way to primer. Got hit by a RV. Anyway when done If I don't point it out you won't find it. Victory Red. I also did one in the middle of the hood on a dark blue party metallic Toyota that was invisible that was about the size of your little finger nail. There is a procedure that is to long in the typing in one post but it very doable. Chip Doctor is more of a 'pepper shot' damage repair. Each has a purpose.

Crobinson16 · March 24, 2018

30 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I've repaired three larger than that with great results using touch up bottle paint and allot of patients with the sanding and polishing. One was a quarter inch wide and three quarter long all the way to primer. Got hit by a RV. Anyway when done If I don't point it out you won't find it. Victory Red. I also did one in the middle of the hood on a dark blue party metallic Toyota that was invisible that was about the size of your little finger nail. There is a procedure that is to long in the typing in one post but it very doable. Chip Doctor is more of a 'pepper shot' damage repair. Each has a purpose.

Could you provide your long details, I've been trying to fix a chip in my door for a couple weeks, it drives me nuts, every time I get it close I try to go further and make it better but only make it worse. And for sure it takes patiences, mine is wearing thin. Do you use primer if you see bare metal and do you use clear ever the repair . If so what primer and sealer. I have trouble getting the repair level. My chip is about 1/8 inch round slightly obblong on the bottom side if door. It's actually not a chip but it's where debris under the paint came out and looks like a chip. I believe it was a blob of the rock guard textured paint that was over spray.

Donstar · March 24, 2018

My experience with such mishaps have been dealt with by local body shops. As catspartsman suggests this can be a "cash" fix. I had a door dent and chip repaired during a bodyman's lunchbreak for a token cash payment. (I gave him a tip as well) Another time, I had a couple of scratches buffed out by another shop and they did it for good public relations. (It paid off when my wife's car was hit)

Grumpy Bear · March 25, 2018

22 hours ago, Crobinson16 said:

Could you provide your long details, I've been trying to fix a chip in my door for a couple weeks, it drives me nuts, every time I get it close I try to go further and make it better but only make it worse. And for sure it takes patiences, mine is wearing thin. Do you use primer if you see bare metal and do you use clear ever the repair . If so what primer and sealer. I have trouble getting the repair level. My chip is about 1/8 inch round slightly obblong on the bottom side if door. It's actually not a chip but it's where debris under the paint came out and looks like a chip. I believe it was a blob of the rock guard textured paint that was over spray.

Hobby magnifier head set. 2" square blocking rubber. Paper punch some 2000 grit wet/dry and CA glue to a new pencil eraser. Bucket of cold water with some dish soap. Some rubbing alcohol. 3000 and 5000 3M sponge back. Perfect It II and a bunch of microfiber towels. Dupli-color pain pen in your color. You may need a 0000 sable art brush for smaller stuff. One the end of the paint pen is an abrasive tip that can be used if needed to clean out the hole. These pens are paint and primer together and if you fix it soon after it happens rust isn't an issue. On a day (or shop) where temperatures are above 55 F and below about 80F clean out the damage if needed. With supplied brush or something, even a toothpick that is appropriate for the size fill the damaged area with paint. Not all in one hit if it's large or deep. This may take a few days even. You want the area built up in thin layers whose edges blend to the damaged edge and are ever so slightly proud of the surface. Give plenty of time between coats as it will shrink and shift as conditions, gravity and humidity insist.

Cold water and soap toss in your sponge backs for presoak and wet the pencil mounted paper in a glass of same. Your going to start with the pencil and a good magnifier head set. Control is key. WET sand with plenty of water the high spot to just a hair above level. Don't be in a hurry. Use the block and sponge backs in order to block the remainder flat to the base in the smallest area possible. Again don't be water shy. A hose is best but a sponge or rag squeezed above the area works too. After the 5K paper a microfiber and Perfect It II will remove the 5K haze.

Yours is metallic so shake the bottle well during the build up process and don't expect perfect. You can't match the flop of the metallic or it's density perfectly but you can match the color and if you get the color right and the shine right they won't notice an area that small whose metallic is a bit off. You will of course but.....

Vision. Lighting. Patients. And remember that the clear is only about a mil or a mill and a half thick thus the reason for the crazy fine papers and flooding. If by chance you do burn through the clear you will kill the metallic then your in for a repaint by a professional.

The more crazy the paint the harder it is to repair. Tricoats, pearls and heavy metallic in order of difficulty. It's why I buy trucks with non metallic, non pearled solid color paint.

Ask away if you need.

Crobinson16 · March 25, 2018

Actually my truck is white now , I did have a silver truck before this one. Also you were talking about the clear, I'm guessing you me be careful not to burn through the clear around the chip with the sand paper, also do you seal or put clear over your repair. The temps have been barley 50 degree out. I've been using a hairdryer to warm up the area before paint. And also on the paint for a little after application. I don't know if that's a no no or not.

Grumpy Bear · March 25, 2018

Yes around the chip. No, no clear over the repair. I'd wait for temperature if it were mine.

Crobinson16 · March 25, 2018

What is the potential down fall of being to cold, I know it should be warmer out but im limited on one of the repairs, I can wait on my truck, I've also had to repair a spot on my wife's new Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have to get it done this week, I'm having it coated with G technique. I'm having my truck done as well just not as soon as her Jeep. I left my wife take my appointment because she drives her Jeep every day. My truck tends to sit for a while. I suppose that will change come summer.

Grumpy Bear · March 25, 2018

38 minutes ago, Crobinson16 said:

What is the potential down fall of being to cold,

The paint wont flow into the chip well and it will take a very long time to cure. It also interferes with adhesion.

Crobinson16 · March 25, 2018

36 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The paint wont flow into the chip well and it will take a very long time to cure. It also interferes with adhesion.

That sucks, I could deal with the paint flow and the cure time as I was giving it at lest 24 hrs before I did ask sanding, but I don't like the possible adhesion problems.

Skidsareforkids · May 17, 2018

Well, after months of putting it off I opted to speak to a local bodyshop where I get my windshields. He tinkered with it there and then, and though I had to look away when he was wet-sanding, it was painless enough. There are still a couple of nicks down to the metal, but it’s 50% and he got rid of the swirl marks I put on the door when I tried using scratch-remover... Not too bad for $20!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro