Jump to content

Oil pressure sending switch


Okiegirl

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, Okiegirl said:

Since he is not the first owner...could the previous owner made mods to the truck to change the oil pressure?

Not to the point of breaking a oil pressure sensor. Take a look at the oil filter, if it appears to be bulging then you likely have an oil pressure issue. It is still same shape as a new one then you do not have an oil pressure issue. 

Posted
48 minutes ago, Doug_Scott said:

I have a hard time believing his post was even serious.  

Get a new sender from the dealer.  Use Teflon tape on the threads, your son should have been taught how to apply it correctly. You want to wrap the tape around the threads in a clockwise direction when the threaded end is facing you. Wrap 3 complete turns, pulling the tape tight as you wrap it. It needs to start at the first thread and wrap up the threads.  Teflon paste is another option. Ignore the post suggesting permatex, or any other of his suggestions. 

 

  

 

   As for the Permatex, it is not an ideal solution, its a fail-safe. Its better than blowing oil all over your engine bay and limping home with dangerously low oil. When the sensor fail continues to fail, you replace it. Only difference is that with the Permatex, you are not dumping oil on the road, messing up you engine bay, and stressing your engine from low oil. 

 

   If you don't like the Permatex idea, you could do this: zip tie a plastic bag over the oil sender, and keep a few gallon of oil in the back seat. Same result as the Permatex, but you have to add oil regularly. 

 

   I'm not talking about fixing the problem. I'm talking about damage control. Its like seat belts and air bags - if you can not prevent the crash, at least you can limit the damage. Permatex or a plastic bag will limit the damage. 

  

 

  

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Okiegirl said:

That's a good idea, if it were leaking. It is blowing...every time it has gone out or blows it sprays oil all over the engine and engine compartment. :-(

 

 

  The Permatex will stop the oil leak. Even if the oil sensor is blowing up. The Permatex can withstand 100 PSI+ if applied properly.

Posted

I'll say it again. Make sure you're not damaging the unit during installation.  As Doug mentions the oil filter will show signs of over pressure. Maybe remove the intake and put the sender on then. Probably needs intake gaskets replaced anyway.

 I would like to see pictures of all these failed units

Posted

The sender itself requires no minimum torque to work properly. It only requires a minimum torque to keep from falling out or leaking around the threads. If it is being damaged by the installation tools, you could probably just screw it in real tight by hand. You would want to really twist it in there as hard as you can, and it might be a good idea to use some Threadlocker blue ( don't get the thread locker into the oil system). I do not believe that it is failing due to excessive oil pressure, or it would be indicated on the dash gauge. 

 

 

If the part fails when threaded in by hand, you know its either too much pressure a defective part. 

If the dash gauge is maxed out, its failing due to excessive pressure.

If the dash gauge is not maxed out, and it was threaded in by hand, then its a defective part. 

 

I would really try to eliminate the installation tools as the culprit. User error is not uncommon. 

Posted

On some of the sensors the core has been busted out and you can blow air through it. the last one was not that way. i dont know if the little washer being somewhat pinched on one side is why its coming out or not. i will admit the first few times i was racing the last few were just cruising around. Not sure what to do. when it blow it shoots oil all over the tranny and everything and smokes horribly. im beyond lost on what to do im tired of replacing them and worrying about it. it scares me to drive it i want it to be solid and running smooth. the oem one is similar to the old ones i believe. i even talked to the local chevy dealer parts guy and a tech and they both had no idea on it so i dont know what to do at this point

Posted

Get one from the dealer.  Make sure it is in an AC Delco box with the authentic symbol on it.  Start monitoring your oil pressure gauge to see what pressure it is reporting.  If this seems to happen when you run the engine to redline, do that and check the gauge just as it shifts. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...