Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is my first post in this forum so please forgive me if I posted it in the wrong spot.

Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

 

I purchased a used 2014 Silverado in January of this year. It has approx. 90 000 Kms( 55000 Miles), it’s a 5.3 LT 4x4. I absolutely love this truck, but have noticed a noise when starting lately. It usually happens when the truck has been sitting overnight, or at least a few hours.

 

At first I thought it was a belt slipping slightly, but after a month has passed I believe the noise it’s getting worse. As soon as the engine starts to warm up a bit, the noise goes away. Sometimes I’ll notice a little chirping when I accelerate slightly, but after a few mins of warming up or driving it goes away.

 

I’m thinking this has to be something belt related, a tensioner perhaps? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou

 

 

Here is the link to a video I took which may be of help:

 

 

 

Posted

My 2016 chirps upon startup but that is when it only happens.  And yes after its sitting overnight or for hours at a time.  

Posted

Here is a better video recording the sound on start up. This was taken first thing in the morning after the truck at all night. Once it warms up the sound goes away 

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

Posted

My Denali with the 6.2 has had the same noise since day 1. Happens more when its cold or humid, and sometimes during acceleration. I've tracked it to the driver side exhaust manifold area.  I think its a rattle inside the catalytic converter right here. Dealers won't do anything about it because they can't exactly pinpoint it and GM is using their standard "normal operating characteristic" escape card.

Posted (edited)
On 7/17/2018 at 1:03 PM, mattarmstr said:

At first I thought it was a belt slipping slightly, but after a month has passed I believe the noise it’s getting worse. As soon as the engine starts to warm up a bit, the noise goes away. Sometimes I’ll notice a little chirping when I accelerate slightly, but after a few mins of warming up or driving it goes away.

 

 

    I have had this problem on 5 vehicles in my life. It is caused by a combination of 2 things:   Wobbling (misaligned) pulley + moisture. 

 

    It makes more noise after the belt absorbs moisture, which is caused by temperature changes. 

 

    Quick temporary solutions that last a few days or weeks:  Change the belt, OR sprinkle some chalk, graphite or other power on the belt to absorb the moisture. '

 

    Long term solutions: Hold a crew driver to the belt while its running and shave about half of the rib depth off of the inner side of the bet. 

 

    Permanent solution: Replace ALL of the pulleys and the belt. 

 

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-STRAIT-LINE-Standard-Marking-65102/dp/B00004YOCB/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1532297888&sr=8-5&keywords=line+chalk

 

https://www.amazon.com/American-grease-stick-graphite-lubricant/dp/B000K7TOLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532297920&sr=8-1&keywords=powdered+graphite

 

 

Edited by starman8tdc
Posted
7 hours ago, mattarmstr said:

Here is a better video recording the sound on start up

 

 

   That second video sounds more like pistons slap. If it is: 

 

    You can't fix it

    You don't need to fix it

    It wont cause any problems

 

  You can try a Seafoam treatment via the PCV valve hose, but I have never seen treatment be successful.  

Posted
54 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

 

 

   That second video sounds more like pistons slap. If it is: 

 

    You can't fix it

    You don't need to fix it

    It wont cause any problems

 

  You can try a Seafoam treatment via the PCV valve hose, but I have never seen treatment be successful.  

Would piston slap go away after 20 seconds?

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, starman8tdc said:

 

 

    I have had this problem on 5 vehicles in my life. It is caused by a combination of 2 things:   Wobbling (misaligned) pulley + moisture. 

 

    It makes more noise after the belt absorbs moisture, which is caused by temperature changes. 

 

    Quick temporary solutions that last a few days or weeks:  Change the belt, OR sprinkle some chalk, graphite or other power on the belt to absorb the moisture. '

 

    Long term solutions: Hold a crew driver to the belt while its running and shave about half of the rib depth off of the inner side of the bet. 

 

    Permanent solution: Replace ALL of the pulleys and the belt. 

 

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-STRAIT-LINE-Standard-Marking-65102/dp/B00004YOCB/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1532297888&sr=8-5&keywords=line+chalk

 

https://www.amazon.com/American-grease-stick-graphite-lubricant/dp/B000K7TOLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532297920&sr=8-1&keywords=powdered+graphite

 

 

Thank you. I’ll try the chalk trick this week. I bought extended warranty with this truck but I’d like to be able to narrow down the problem before I get it checked when and if I need to.

Edited by mattarmstr
Posted
23 minutes ago, mattarmstr said:

Would piston slap go away after 20 seconds?

 

 

   Yes, piston slap goes away after about 20 seconds. I have the same issue with one of my rigs. Its been like that for a very long time, and has caused no problems. When the piston heats up, the shape of the piston skirt changes, and tightens up the tolerances - eliminating the slap. 

 

   Piston slap is not bad for your engine, don't worry about it. Its annoying, but nothing else. 

 

   You can reduce the noise by installing a block heater and using it regularly. It reduces the time the pistons slaps, but does not eliminate it. 

 

Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, mattarmstr said:

Thank you. I’ll try the chalk trick this week. I bought extended warranty with this truck but I’d like to be able to narrow down the problem before I get it checked when and if I need to.

 

 

You want to put the chalk on both side of the belt. It doesn't normally take a lot. Easier to do with the engine off. 

Edited by starman8tdc
Posted

I would start with a new serpentine belt. While you have the belt off turn all the accessory pulleys and tension-er by hand look for a wobble and feel for any play/roughness or a squeak as it turns. i suspect the water pump but could be about anything.  

Posted (edited)

My "Chirp" on startup was related to the exhaust flapper valve.

It would only happen when the truck was warm, not cold.

I thought it was the starter hanging up. Upon further inspection it was the flapper. I pinned it open and Voila, chirp was gone.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sierra Dan
Mispelling! LOL
  • 7 months later...
Posted

Have the same issue on my 2014 Silverado 5.3 - 89k miles.  Both your videos sound EXACTLY to mine.

Chirp lasts for about 10-12 seconds then dissipates.  Mine appears to come from the passenger side back of the engine.  I've chalked it up as a lifter.  I'm concerned as it appears to get louder on certain mornings.  Depends really on the weather it seems.    I've tried some Liqui-Molly Lifter additive, and that didn't do anything.  I was contemplating an engine flush at the next oil change.  My theory is the oil at 0w20 is so thin it drains off the lifter, then takes a few seconds at engine start to coat properly.  Again, this is just a theory, I'm not a master of mechanics!  I was also thinking out trying a little thicker oil during winter months and 0w20 during summer.  But I won't know the thicker oil theory until next year.

 

Posted
On 3/6/2019 at 3:49 PM, tk2412 said:

Have the same issue on my 2014 Silverado 5.3 - 89k miles.  Both your videos sound EXACTLY to mine.

Chirp lasts for about 10-12 seconds then dissipates.  Mine appears to come from the passenger side back of the engine.  I've chalked it up as a lifter.  I'm concerned as it appears to get louder on certain mornings.  Depends really on the weather it seems.    I've tried some Liqui-Molly Lifter additive, and that didn't do anything.  I was contemplating an engine flush at the next oil change.  My theory is the oil at 0w20 is so thin it drains off the lifter, then takes a few seconds at engine start to coat properly.  Again, this is just a theory, I'm not a master of mechanics!  I was also thinking out trying a little thicker oil during winter months and 0w20 during summer.  But I won't know the thicker oil theory until next year.

 

Update to my issue..

Decided to do an engine flush with Liqui-Molly Motor Flush and fresh 0w20.  Thought issue was resolved as it didn't produce the same noise for 2 days.  But today, its wet & cold..  Squeak at cold startup came back.  Threw a P050D Code for cold start.  My new theory is a possible bad injector #4.  If I run ODB Torque Check dongle on it, in testing I go get some misfires on #4 & #5.  Only a few.  like on a 25 mile trip like 15 misfires on 4 and 7 on 5.  So I'm not sure if that's the issue or what.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 641 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...