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'06 Sierra ECM replacement advice/input needed.


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Posted

And before you had sent me that link, I checked a GM parts site, and the weird part about that is, they show 5 different ones.

Look at the # 7's....only the first one looks right, if you click on the part number, but the others say left, right, front, rear, etc.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2006/gmc/sierra-1500/slt-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/emission-system-cat/emission-components-scat

 

Just kind of confusing.

 

 

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Posted
20 minutes ago, soulweeper said:

And before you had sent me that link, I checked a GM parts site, and the weird part about that is, they show 5 different ones.

Look at the # 7's....only the first one looks right, if you click on the part number, but the others say left, right, front, rear, etc.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2006/gmc/sierra-1500/slt-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/emission-system-cat/emission-components-scat

 

Just kind of confusing.

 

 

 

 

Many amazon links have multiple options. Clicking on the options or pictures can select a different part within the listing. To simply, you could get this one instead: 

 

https://www.amazon.com/ABIGAIL-A13361X-Upstream-Downstream-Chevrolet/dp/B01N3U5SON/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1532486038&vehicle=2006-48-548-296--77-9-7-7910----145-132-78-0&sr=1-6&ymm=2006%3Agmc%3Asierra+1500

 

 

Posted
3 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

only the first one looks right

 

If the Amazon sensor is not correct for any reason, they will refund the cost, the shipping, and they will even pay for the return shipping. You have nothing to lose at all by trying an Amazon part. ALL of the local parts stores, dealers, etc will not allow returns on electrical parts if you try to install them - even if they don't fit. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

 

 

Many amazon links have multiple options. Clicking on the options or pictures can select a different part within the listing. To simply, you could get this one instead: 

 

https://www.amazon.com/ABIGAIL-A13361X-Upstream-Downstream-Chevrolet/dp/B01N3U5SON/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1532486038&vehicle=2006-48-548-296--77-9-7-7910----145-132-78-0&sr=1-6&ymm=2006%3Agmc%3Asierra+1500

 

 

The link I posted a couple posts back, wasn't Amazon. They list 5 different ones, 4 don't even look right.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2006/gmc/sierra-1500/slt-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/emission-system-cat/emission-components-scat

 

Loot at all the # 7's. Kind of strange.

Posted
32 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

 

If the Amazon sensor is not correct for any reason, they will refund the cost, the shipping, and they will even pay for the return shipping. You have nothing to lose at all by trying an Amazon part. ALL of the local parts stores, dealers, etc will not allow returns on electrical parts if you try to install them - even if they don't fit. 

Yes, I know. But what I said was, the description says downstream, and under my truck's info in the top left corner, it says upstream. The second one says upstream/downstream in the description, but also says upstream in the top left corner. This isn't clicking on the different pictures within the ad. :)

Posted
1 hour ago, starman8tdc said:

 

If the Amazon sensor is not correct for any reason, they will refund the cost, the shipping, and they will even pay for the return shipping. You have nothing to lose at all by trying an Amazon part. ALL of the local parts stores, dealers, etc will not allow returns on electrical parts if you try to install them - even if they don't fit. 

You said you've used this brand a lot, yes? Wondering if I would be better off using AC/Delco, or would I just be paying more for the same thing? Just curious.

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, soulweeper said:

The link I posted a couple posts back, wasn't Amazon. They list 5 different ones, 4 don't even look right.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2006/gmc/sierra-1500/slt-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/emission-system-cat/emission-components-scat

 

Loot at all the # 7's. Kind of strange.

 

 

Ya, i'm not sure whats up with those. Looks odd. 

 

Most of the parts that I buy are after market. OEM is ideal, but often very expensive. 

 

Some parts need to be OEM though. Knock sensors are a good example. OEM spark plugs are good. Certain gaskets. Certain electronics.


 

 

Posted
5 minutes ago, soulweeper said:

Wondering if I would be better off using AC/Delco

 

I have used many different types of O2 sensors. 

 

The only bad ones were: Generic / universal and "Splice" kits (no electrical connector) 

 

The Abigail brand seems to work just as well as OEMs. I have used both many times. 

 

Posted

The 13444 is upstream, looks like it crosses with Denso 2344337, Denso is often OEM. Your application calls for the 2344337 number as correct fitment.  Should be good to go. If you live in Cali, as the paperwork in your diagnosis suggest at the bottom, you may not be able to pass Emission testing with a emission code set. So I'd suggest getting this fixed if your O2 sensor is not the issue

 

rockauto.com is a great source for parts info, btw

Posted
30 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

 

I have used many different types of O2 sensors. 

 

The only bad ones were: Generic / universal and "Splice" kits (no electrical connector) 

 

The Abigail brand seems to work just as well as OEMs. I have used both many times. 

 

Gotcha. I'll take your word for it, you seem to know your s**t, haha. :)

Posted
23 minutes ago, txab said:

The 13444 is upstream, looks like it crosses with Denso 2344337, Denso is often OEM. Your application calls for the 2344337 number as correct fitment.  Should be good to go. If you live in Cali, as the paperwork in your diagnosis suggest at the bottom, you may not be able to pass Emission testing with a emission code set. So I'd suggest getting this fixed if your O2 sensor is not the issue

Yeah, the service writer said it wouldn't pass smog, but I'm assuming that's in whatever state it's in, while the check engine light is on. If you read through this, it sounds like it's the sensor, or I guess maybe the ECM. Or like starman8tdc said, maybe a funky wiring harness? I'm assuming today, with the light off again, it would pass smog?? *shrug* It's apparently intermittent. Yes, I'm in Cali. :)

Posted

Oh.....another thing I noticed right after all this started, and don't ask me why......and after the first time the light went out was......it seems like first thing in the morning, during the periods where the light has been staying off, because I'm curious if the light will come on, it does come on when I turn the key, along with the anti theft light, ABS light, etc., and then goes out after a few seconds, once the truck has started, which is how it should be. What I noticed was, if I turn the truck back off, and turn it right back on, the only light that doesn't briefly come on, is the check engine light. Is that normal? It stood out to me, because I'm paying more attention to it lately.

Posted

Light may be off. Can still be stored code and the emission testing facilities equipment is a bit more sophisticated than an auto part store hand held OBDII reader. Just clearing a code can still prevent passage on some parts of the test because the test can show up as "not complete" or something similar. Fortunately I don't have to deal with this in my area so my knowledge is based on reports of others that live in Cali and other strict smog areas. I was responding to point this out because as if I recall it was suggested if it was running well you might not need to bother with it. If checking for a working, heated O2 sensor is part of the test then it would need to be addressed whatever the issue is.

 

Quote

Oh.....another thing I noticed right after all this started, and don't ask me why......and after the first time the light went out was......it seems like first thing in the morning, during the periods where the light has been staying off, because I'm curious if the light will come on, it does come on when I turn the key, along with the anti theft light, ABS light, etc., and then goes out after a few seconds, once the truck has started, which is how it should be. What I noticed was, if I turn the truck back off, and turn it right back on, the only light that doesn't briefly come on, is the check engine light. Is that normal? It stood out to me, because I'm paying more attention to it lately.

 concerning this issue, I'd have to check tomorrow. It comes on as you describe for a bulb check primarily. Without checking I'd say it is operating as it should

Posted
3 minutes ago, txab said:

Light may be off. Can still be stored code and the emission testing facilities equipment is a bit more sophisticated than an auto part store hand held OBDII reader. Just clearing a code can still prevent passage on some parts of the test because the test can show up as "not complete" or something similar. Fortunately I don't have to deal with this in my area so my knowledge is based on reports of others that live in Cali and other strict smog areas. I was responding to point this out because as if I recall it was suggested if it was running well not to bother with it. If checking for a working, heated O2 sensor then it would need to be addressed whatever the issue is

Gotcha.....that makes perfect sense, and point well taken. It may run just fine if I don't do anything to it, but rear it's head if/when I try to sell/smog it. My personality is such that, I want to replace that sensor, and see if that light stays off. Can I clear the codes after I install it, so that I can keep an eye on it from there on out?

Posted

Yes you can clear codes as described earlier. Many code readers can clear codes even at auto parts stores

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