Jump to content

4L60E issue


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all first post here, thanks for any help with this. 99 1500 Suburban 4x4 with auto TC. Just bought cheapish, been neglected and am trying to address all it's issues. Main thing is, i'm getting a hard TC lock up... it's abrupt like the PWM isn't working. I did new DexIV and filter, and some platinum lubegard, it did help. Sometimes it doesn't "do it" at all, but sometimes it will do it frequently, usually with little load, and it might do it a couple times... in/out. Will be taking it somewhere soon to be scanned and driven by trans specialist, but was surprised on the phone when he said he hadn't heard of this problem before? Anyway, wondering if replacing the harness and two selenoids might be indicated here. I'd suspect that someone did a PWM delete except for sometimes, it works. Thanks

Posted

PWM delete?

You can have it scanned at a autozone for free and see if you have any codes to see if that can give you a direction before you take it to a transmission shop and plunk down a bunch of money for something that could be simple? Have you checked the wiring harness, check for any corrosion at the connection points, check for any corrosion hooking up to the transmission ECM? It could be something simple such as one of those or you just clean it up real good and put some good proper lubricating grease on it design for electrical contacts.

On a side note whenever I get a vehicle that's used that I plan on keeping for personal or family use I generally run it down to the transmission shop, have them drop the pan, service it complete, take it for a test drive and let me know of anything else that they see or feel is wrong before I put it on the road. I don't want to be stranded and I don't want any members of my family stranded. Most often when I do this I find that liver had the vehicle before me didn't take care of the transmission as it should have been. These Transmissions these days are finicky even down to the type of transmission fluid you need to use and that varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I do know mine always get synthetic in them because that's what the transmission shop uses. Definitely drop us a line and let us know what you figure out what the transmission shop unless you figure it out before then. It's good to hear back that way we have reference material to fall back on at times. Have a good day!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Well, since one bottle of lubegard "helped", I put another bottle in and drove it a few miles and during that time it didn't "do it" even once. Just about to go try it again and see if my "fix" holds. Yes, it's possible it's an electrical issue, but I think more likely it's just had evil fluid in it for so long the pwm sel. suffered, and whatever's in that lubegard is brining it back to life lol. Yes believe me when I buy a used car I don't stop till it's functioning mechanically as new. Grandpa was a union diesel mechanic, still have his tools and I feel thankful for that most every day that passes. 

Posted

I would have tried changing out all the fluid.  If it was contaminated it could have caused the issue.  Putting in additives to me is a band aid.  Which looks like what you are wanting anyway so I guess why not. 

 

How many miles are on the vehicle? 

Posted
Well, since one bottle of lubegard "helped", I put another bottle in and drove it a few miles and during that time it didn't "do it" even once. Just about to go try it again and see if my "fix" holds. Yes, it's possible it's an electrical issue, but I think more likely it's just had evil fluid in it for so long the pwm sel. suffered, and whatever's in that lubegard is brining it back to life lol. Yes believe me when I buy a used car I don't stop till it's functioning mechanically as new. Grandpa was a union diesel mechanic, still have his tools and I feel thankful for that most every day that passes. 


I do the same with my used vehicles...including my 99 Suburban, too LOL

Rebuilding the front end did wonders for the steering, BTW [emoji106]

Wasn’t too thrilled about rebuilding the tranny, but I lost all but first gear so something had to be done LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

Black02Silverado yes, thanks that was the first thing I did. Ran 5 gallons of Valvoline Dex VI through it and a wix filter. Drove it again and it's functioning perfectly, knock on wood, or something like that. Also did the same with the PS fluid plus LG's power steering whatever it is additive, rear diff bearings, wheel bearings and seals all new brakes, bilsteins, all new fluids diff/TC case tune up parts tps iac heater blower/resistor door handle led turn signals hyperflash relay headlight bulbs u-joints alignment all new brakes reset z height/trim, think that's it for now and I don't know why my text is orange lol. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 415 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...