Jump to content

Wheel Spacer?

steve76t
 Share

Recommended Posts

jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, FORGIVEN06 said:

 

I’m running 1” on the front and 1.25 on rear. (With stud trimming) and they run “visibly” equal. I believe that you will have to get at least 1.75 spacer to keep from trimming studs, depending on what wheel your running. Some wheels have “pockets” to allow for some of the studs to set in without trimming excess that is sticking out. I agree with purchasing quality spacer like bora.

My only thing that bugs me about my truck is that the drivers side literally sticks out like 5” to 3/4” more then the passenger side. Like if the body of the truck is not sitting center on the frame. Weird! But I haven’t done much research so I’m betting this is pretty normal on most GM truck. Hope this helps! Good luck

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mine is the EXACT same way. the bed sits (on mine at least) 1/4" to the passengers side causing the tire to stick out more on the drivers side of the bed. I measured from the frame rail to the wheel well on the bed to figure it out. 

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Donstar
Donstar

This tire size is very close to stock and I suspect the rubbing is a result of the level.  I wonder if switching to a smaller level kit would eliminate the rubbing?   A 1" or 1.5" level kit may  provi

pewterliftedz
pewterliftedz

BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s   I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric,

Crazyjoker77
Crazyjoker77

this thread needs more pictures and less blab.

Posted Images

  • 2 years later...
Lou C. New Member

Lou C.

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello all, Have a 2017 Sierra Z71 with Falken 275/65R18 on it.With stock wheels. I want a more aggressive look so im putting on some Rough Country 2 " spacers. Rear is no problem but the fronts are going to rub in the mud flap area. Has anyone done this to this year and model and what did you have to modify. TIA 

Edited by Lou C.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hoginedgewood
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • Coastie05
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • newdude
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By newdude · Posted

      It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...