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Wheel Spacer?

steve76t
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Donstar
Donstar

This tire size is very close to stock and I suspect the rubbing is a result of the level.  I wonder if switching to a smaller level kit would eliminate the rubbing?   A 1" or 1.5" level kit may  provi

pewterliftedz
pewterliftedz

BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s   I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric,

Crazyjoker77
Crazyjoker77

this thread needs more pictures and less blab.

Posted Images

btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters:
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s
 
I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric, not hubcentric.  I would go with a set specifically designed for our trucks.  I think I paid $50 for my pair, which isn't cheap, but I had no vibration or balancing issues. 
Mine are from RC, 2" spacers. No issues either. Have had them installed for nearly 2 years now.33fa05020c3f6707bdbe86e02b3c0309.jpg619d5f070c5ff54ddf2c09d5f50790a0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, btj_z71 said:

Mine are from RC, 2" spacers. No issues either. Have had them installed for nearly 2 years now.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

I meant the RC slip on spacers, not the bolt on adapters.

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
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Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 9:13 AM, pewterliftedz said:

If you have the factory Snowflake wheels, you can run a 1" BORA adapter type spacer, and not have to trim your studs.  Personally I wouldn't go bigger than a 1/4" with slip on spacers, you want to make sure you're getting plenty of thread engagement. 

Only a 1” spacer?  I would have guessed at least 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” would be needed. I have the factory 20” Denali Wheel which is different that the regular Snowflake wheel.  I also haven’t taken the time yet to remove a wheel and check the depth of the holes in the back.

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, steve76t said:

Only a 1” spacer?  I would have guessed at least 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” would be needed. I have the factory 20” Denali Wheel which is different that the regular Snowflake wheel.  I also haven’t taken the time yet to remove a wheel and check the depth of the holes in the back.

IDK about other wheels, but the snowflake have enough relief to run a 1" adapter. 

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 11:09 AM, pewterliftedz said:

I ran a 1/4" spacer on the front of my truck when I ran factory wheels with 305s, and it helped eliminate a lot of the rub.  With a 285 or 295 I'm sure that 1/4" would get rid of all the rub.  They're nice custom hubcentric pieces, I don't need them anymore since I went aftermarket wheels and control arms, let me know if someone is interested.

spacers.JPG

I would be!  Do they still allow the oem wheel to sit on a hub ring? Or studs only?

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
On 10/23/2018 at 5:23 AM, Yondu said:

I would be!  Do they still allow the oem wheel to sit on a hub ring? Or studs only?

Yup, the wheel remains hubcentric with the 1/4" spacer.  Message me if you're serious, and we can set something up.

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 10/19/2018 at 9:13 AM, pewterliftedz said:

If you have the factory Snowflake wheels, you can run a 1" BORA adapter type spacer, and not have to trim your studs.  Personally I wouldn't go bigger than a 1/4" with slip on spacers, you want to make sure you're getting plenty of thread engagement. 

For the record, I removed a wheel & measured the depth of the cavities in the back of my 20” Denali wheels...  a 1” spacer wouldn’t work for me.  The studs are 1 3/4” long & the depth of the cavity is only 1 5/8”.  A 1” spacer would be at least 1/8” short of what’s needed to work.  Here’s a pic of what the back of my wheels look like...   I decided to go with 1 1/4” spacers & they’re exactly what I was looking for.  

C2D4E4BE-D7D5-4DB0-A10E-8F56FEE89CF7.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

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Posted (edited)

Pulled the trigger on some 1 1/4” spacers for my truck.  Install took about 1.5 hours as I was taking my time, did test fitting at each wheel, made sure everything was clean, then made sure all were installed correctly.  Here’s a pic of how she looks...

 

3E2E244F-2B1E-4F19-B5BE-2D753DA43346.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
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steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

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Posted (edited)

Here’s pic down the side from front

7F936FEC-E137-4795-A90C-33430E91E2D3.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
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steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

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Posted (edited)

And one more down the side from the rear...

7495349C-0737-4FA3-BA90-BA1705C1836C.jpeg

Edited by steve76t
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Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted

I have a little experience with slip on spacers as well as thicker bolt on spacers with studs.  I ran several different sizes and styles of slip on spacers on my Camaro.  I had some cheap cast spacers for a while.  They suck.  They do not hold torque well at all.  The billet machined spacers are much better and are more stable.  Just make sure you still have enough thread engagement, minimum is 1.5 x stud diameter.  If you are short of this, ARP makes some nice longer studs.

 

Same goes for the bolt on spacers, billet machined are way better than cast.   Make sure they have quality studs and nuts.

 

"Flame suit on". I have found zero difference in performance between hub and lug centric spacers.  Not in drivability, steering shake, perceived wheel shake or bearing life.  The way I see it, the lugs MUST help center the wheel anyway with tapered (acorn) lug nuts other wise tightening them down would try to split the wheel if one or more were off center.  I think hub centric is nothing more than an assembly aid to help the lugs center up on the assembly line to speed things up.  "Flame suit off". Just my opinion.

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Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, steve76t said:

For the record, I removed a wheel & measured the depth of the cavities in the back of my 20” Denali wheels...  a 1” spacer wouldn’t work for me.  The studs are 1 3/4” long & the depth of the cavity is only 1 5/8”.  A 1” spacer would be at least 1/8” short of what’s needed to work.  Here’s a pic of what the back of my wheels look like...   I decided to go with 1 1/4” spacers & they’re exactly what I was looking for.  

C2D4E4BE-D7D5-4DB0-A10E-8F56FEE89CF7.jpeg

Are your tires stock 275/55r20 size?

 

With a 1" spacer you need 3/4" deep pockets, correct?  I'll have to measure my wheels.  I kind of like not destroying my feet ders with rock chips though...hmmmm

steve76t Enthusiast

steve76t

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Posted (edited)

No, slightly bigger with 285/55r20 which are about 3/4” taller & 1/2” wider than 275/55r20’s.  On the truck my BFGs are nearly an inch taller than the stock Goodyear SRAs it came with.  

 

With a 1” spacer, yes you’d need a wheel with 3/4” deep pockets or more.  The other option would be to trim the end of the stud some.  There is room to do that as there’s about 1/2” of stud length that’s not threaded or used.  

Edited by steve76t

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