Jump to content

Getting Keys Cut (Options)

krunch

By krunch
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

krunch Enthusiast

krunch

Posted
Posted

Greetings all! Noob here, First post :P

 

Just recently bought my first truck ever and currently addressing some issues...

 

2016 Silverado 1500 WT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door
5.3L 5328CC 325Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated

 

Bought used, came with 3 fobs and only 1 key. I worked that into the deal for $200 - 300 off from the Subaru dealer I bought it from and agreed to deal with this myself. I tried searching here, 0 results, I'm guessing because I just haven't gotten used to the search here yet. Little help on comments or links? I have a message gone to an ebay seller right now to see what they can do but doesn't hurt to check in with experienced GM truck owners for first hand suggestions and knowledge. Here's the links on ebay I found...

 

(Key Cutting Service)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-GM-KEY-CUTTING-SERVICE-SIDE-MILL-HIGH-SECURITY-2-TRACK-LASER-CUT-BY-CODE/331936724331?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 

 

(Actual Keys)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-GM-REPLACEMENT-TRANSPONDER-CHIP-Chevy-BowTie-Logo-KEY-BLANK-B119-PT-B121-PT/352302893722?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

 

How have you guys addressed this? Hoping there's a cheaper solution than the stealership :P

 

TIA,

krunch

DougFL Enthusiast

DougFL

Posted
Posted

On my 2016 I worked directly with the Parts Department to purchase a spare key.  Once the Key has been cut it has to be programed to your vehicle in order for it to start your vehicle.  They took care of it for me and it cost ~$80.

krunch Enthusiast

krunch

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, DougFL said:

On my 2016 I worked directly with the Parts Department to purchase a spare key.  Once the Key has been cut it has to be programed to your vehicle in order for it to start your vehicle.  They took care of it for me and it cost ~$80.

Thanx Doug! I live in Canada where the rule is to mark up all parts and services by about 200% - 300%. I will make the call here in Canada, but will also make a call to the dealer in Minot, ND as I only live 2 hours from there and we go to the States for the occasional weekend here and there.

 

Krunch

krunch Enthusiast

krunch

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, hollywoodsle said:

You're going to have to go to the "stealership" anyways. You need 2 working keys to program a new one.

Thanx hollywood! I thought I had read some conflicting information on that so I asked uncle Google and it appears I may get lucky with one key maybe. It seems you don't need two keys unless you have a 17' or newer model? I couldn't find this here last night using search here but Google found it. Noob here, learning another forum and it's search engine :P

 

 

hollywoodsle Enthusiast

hollywoodsle

Posted
Posted
Adding Keys (Without SPS) – Canada, Europe, South America, Asia, and Middle East

Note:

  • To initiate, this procedure requires that 2 learned key be available.
  • A total of eight keys maybe be learned to a single vehicle.
  • This procedure adds keys only. The procedure does not erase previously learned keys.
  • The keys to be learned must duplicate the mechanical cut of the current key.

Note:

  • When verifying operation, make sure that no other transmitters are near the vehicle.
  • If key fails to learn repeat steps 1-6 paying close attention to the time limits at each step.
  1. With a previously learned key, turn the ignition ON.
  2. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
  3. With a second previously learned key, turn the ignition ON.
  4. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
  5. Within 10 seconds of turning OFF the ignition, insert the key to be learned and turn ON/RUN position (do not turn to the crank position). Keep key in the ON/RUN position for 5 seconds and the theft light turns off. The vehicle has now learned the new key.

    Note:

    • Step 5 can be repeated until a maximum of 8 keys are learned (including 2 factory keys) to the vehicle.
    • Be sure to keep other keys and transmitters at least 12 in (30 cm) away from the ignition cylinder while learning.
  6. Verify each transmitter and key is operating properly. Remove key from the ignition cylinder and wait 30 seconds. Insert the key into the ignition cylinder and start vehicle.
krunch Enthusiast

krunch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It would appear you work for GM hollywood if you posted a link to GMSI :) Can you hook me up? :P

 

My apologies on the "Stealership" comment. Im sure that's not the first time you've heard that though :thumbs:

 

Krunch

 

 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, krunch said:

It would appear you work for GM hollywood if you posted a link to GMSI :) Can you hook me up? :P

 

My apologies on the "Stealership" comment. Im sure that's not the first time you've heard that though :thumbs:

 

Krunch

 

 

 

Hollywoodsle has the right instructions, which are correct for Canada 2016 model year, requires you start with two keys already learned to the truck to initiate the quick learn.  You, having only one key with the truck will require a trip to the dealer to program a second via GM SPS.  Once you have the second key, and down the road you want to add a third, you can then do the quick learn. 

krunch Enthusiast

krunch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Appreciate all the help guys! Currently exploring doing both. I have 3 fobs, might as well have 3 keys I guess. Maybe get one from the dealer and get a second from ebay and then cut elsewhere and program myself.

 

Dealership Pricing:

 

1/2 hr - 1 hr shop rate @ $135.00 + $68.00 for the key and $10.00 to cut it -> Murray Chevrolet here in Brandon, Manitoba, Canada = $163.86 - $239.46 CAD = $124.93 - $182.57 USD

 

1/2 hr - 1 hr shop rate @ $120 + $80 for the key -> Ryan Chevrolet, Minot, ND = $140 - $180 USD

 

Hmmmm maybe prices may have finally gotten more fair. Years ago I bought a BCM for my 02' Monte Carlo SS from GM Parts Direct at 1/3 the Canadian cost in the US and when I opened the box it had "Made in Canada" stamped right in the module :sigh:

 

Krunch

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fishbones
      2012 Sierra 1500 AC issues

      By Fishbones · Posted

      I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...