Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

First post here in a long time but just recently picked up a 2005 GMC 2500HD 6.0 with 183k miles and 4l80e transmission.  Vehicle is really clean but have come up with a transmission issue.  When cold the transmission shifts into OD on the highway no issues.  When the transmission gets up to operating temp it will not shift into OD, it sits at 3k rpm at 70mph.   I did a stall speed test and it comes up to 2400rpm (believe stock is 2600) unsure if that is a real issue only 200rpm difference so don't believe it is the TC.  When cold or warm the transmission shifts smooth as anything just when warm will hang 3rd.  Checked fluid and it looks clean, not burned and full.  Wondering if its worth changing the fluid/filter/shift solenoids and go from that point or just bring it to a shop.  Not sure if the wrong fluid was used and if that would even cause the shifting issue when warm or if it is just the TC that needs to be replaced.

 

Thanks!

Edited by spiGini
Posted (edited)

Just an update since nobody responded.  Little more information on my issue which starts when the trans temp reaches above 150 degrees.  Below 150 degrees the transmission has no issues shifting into 4th or 4th gear lock up.  Above 150 degrees it will not shift into 4th but has no issues shifting 1-3.  My thought was the fluid was getting thinner but didn't know what or where it was going wrong.  Dropped the pan and checked all of the solenoids and everything was in spec for ohms reading.  Thought it could be the feed limit actuator that is known to bore itself out (still unsure if that is damaged but ordered a whole new valve body with upgraded transgo feed limit).  So in preparation for the new valve body to arrive I decided to take out the old one last night.  When I dropped the valve body along with it came half of the 4th bolt or 4th clutch bolt.  The other half was stuck in the transmission.  I assume it was over torqued at one point causing it to crack and when the fluid gets thin it escapes through the threads instead of providing constant pressure to the 4th piston.  Had to use a tap and screw to get out the half stuck in the transmission.  Now not sure if this is the exact thing causing the issue but I assume it will be.  So a $5 part was causing me to lose 4th gear when the transmission reached over 150 degrees.

 

Just wanted to update the thread in case anybody has issues later on and doesn't know where to start.  If everything checks out with the solenoids i'd take a look at this bolt.  And I'll update this weekend after I put in the updated valve body and new 4th bolt in to verify everything is good to go now

Edited by spiGini
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey thanks yall for the info. It apparently was the key fob - the "reserve" key fob works just fine. Yall were all over it. Great input! JRD
    • I just bought one of these.   https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro   Yeah, it`s got a cable. $250/year after 2 years. Do I want more? Yep. But, I`m not working any more and can`t afford a whirlpool in my tool box.
    • Why don't I have a good scanner? I've always wanted one when I've needed one.   My latest reading says I don't need to do a relearn on the ckp sensor on a 1995 with OBD 1.5. The relearn is prescribed for the later-model 1995's which shipped with actual OBD II when GM completed the transition in prep for the 1996 MY. I need to confirm that. Did you know forums are disappearing? Knuckleheads on Facebook... it's not the same. It's just not.   So, scanners. Again, shooting myself in the foot for having eBayed my Snap On MT2500 "brick" with all the adapters. Not that I couldn't buy another but those are getting quite old, and mine wasn't new enough to work on 2000's vehicles.   Damn it (as I'm scanning my email between paragraphs here). Did you know there's a 2000 Jimmy 2-door on BaT that's ending this morning? It's local. I want it. 14k miles. Absolutely beautiful.   Back to scanners. MT2500's are old. Solus, now that could be a contender. There's a ~2008 Verus with a system error that's basically new in box for cheap. Hmm...I'm not sure about a scanner that runs an archaic version of windows (95 or CE, I can't tell).   I want the ability to reset and rotate TPMS, test individual modules, bleed ABS, electronic parking brake controls for servicing brakes, relearn procedures and other bidirectional controls.   Snap On does an MT2600. It's a new model as of last year, marketed as their "entry" scanner. Entry? Only where $1900 gets you through the doorway plus, I'm guessing, $1000/year if you wish to keep it current. So goes scan tools actually designed for production environments. Want decent products with excellent support, you pay for it.   Everyone is raving about Autels and TopDons and Foxconns and all these newer brands that are selling the $500 "prosumer" scanners for backyard hacks like me. They're tempting...honestly. Updates are cheaper, base prices are remarkably cheaper... And you get to deal with bugs and translation whoopsies and, well, just don't use it on anything expensive, OK? Having a dealer replace an ECU because it needs to be re-imaged after an adventure in scanning is no joke. But I think most people are getting by OK with these units.   eBay on a scratch-and-sniff pro-model oldie, a shiny new TopDon, or???   God dang it, I can't stop looking at this Jimmy. I'm ready! I'll Bring The TRailer! It's beautiful.
    • I removed the OE running boards.  It looked so much better.  I wish I took them off a long time ago.     I had to put something back on for my wife.  I wanted Westin Sure Grip Running Boards but they are very pricey, like $600 plus.  I was going to go with the Ionic 41's like I had on the 2019 Silverado but went with Westin Outlaw Drop Steps instead, about $200 cheaper.  They are sturdy and functional but not super crazy about the look, but it works.  
    • It's all a crock of 💩
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...