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Posted

I have a 2013 Silverado 5.3 v8 4x4 regular cab. I bought it new with a snow plow for light plowing. I had a baby so I bought another car over the summer and the truck sat a lot. It currently has 56,400 miles on her. Due to sitting the battery died. I jumpstarted and recharged it and as long as I ran it once a week it seemed fine. Then the upper radiator hose started leaking which I replaced.  Then the check engine light came on which turned out to be a bad knock sensor. Then the other day I remote started her to warm her up and when I got in it said to service stabilitrack and traction control. I shut it off and turned back on and the message went away and it seemed fine. Today I remote started her again and sounded rough but she started. Got in and it again said service stabilitrack and traction control system. Then I noticed the tachometer wasnt working. Every other gauge was working fine. I plowed my driveway for the heck of it. Then I took the truck around the block and it felt like it barely had enough power to climb a hill. Parked it in hte driveway and shut it off for a minute. Started her back up but it was rough. The starter motor was turning but it took a few extra seconds to get the 5.3 going. 

Sorry for the extended story time.

 

Anyways, where can I start with this?

Thanks

Posted
3 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

How old is the gas?  You say it sits a lot.  Maybe the fuel has some water in it and gone bad.

I just put in 93 a couple weeks ago to run it up and down the highway. It was my daily driver up until late June of this year so the gas shouldnt be too old. Since the knock sensor code its lost some acceleration and the fuel mileage has dropped a bit. Which is normal for that. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Mfire123 said:

I have a 2013 Silverado 5.3 v8 4x4 regular cab. I bought it new with a snow plow for light plowing. I had a baby so I bought another car over the summer and the truck sat a lot. It currently has 56,400 miles on her. Due to sitting the battery died. I jumpstarted and recharged it and as long as I ran it once a week it seemed fine. Then the upper radiator hose started leaking which I replaced.  Then the check engine light came on which turned out to be a bad knock sensor. Then the other day I remote started her to warm her up and when I got in it said to service stabilitrack and traction control. I shut it off and turned back on and the message went away and it seemed fine. Today I remote started her again and sounded rough but she started. Got in and it again said service stabilitrack and traction control system. Then I noticed the tachometer wasnt working. Every other gauge was working fine. I plowed my driveway for the heck of it. Then I took the truck around the block and it felt like it barely had enough power to climb a hill. Parked it in hte driveway and shut it off for a minute. Started her back up but it was rough. The starter motor was turning but it took a few extra seconds to get the 5.3 going. 

Sorry for the extended story time.

 

Anyways, where can I start with this?

Thanks

Does it have a check engine light on? If so run to the local parts store and get them to scan it or pick up one of those cheap bluetooth scanners on amazon and let us know what codes you have so we can help you get started. The Stabilitrack and traction control lights are probably symptom codes for the check engine light. Like a C0561 71 System Disabled code will set if you have a problem in the ECM.

 

In case you want your own cheap code reader (which i think everyone should have) https://amzn.to/2TvowtF

This on is a better but costs a little more. Does more modules and has its own software where as the other one has to have third party software. https://amzn.to/2OVNHSX

 

 

Posted
24 minutes ago, carnau said:

Does it have a check engine light on? If so run to the local parts store and get them to scan it or pick up one of those cheap bluetooth scanners on amazon and let us know what codes you have so we can help you get started. The Stabilitrack and traction control lights are probably symptom codes for the check engine light. Like a C0561 71 System Disabled code will set if you have a problem in the ECM.

 

In case you want your own cheap code reader (which i think everyone should have) https://amzn.to/2TvowtF

This on is a better but costs a little more. Does more modules and has its own software where as the other one has to have third party software. https://amzn.to/2OVNHSX

 

 

The check engine light was on for the knock sensor issue which I havent fixed yet. Ill take it to the autoparts store tomorrow to check if any new codes popped up and get back to you on that. 

Posted

Don't discount the battery itself.  It either needs a good charging or it is bad.  A bad cell in a battery can cause all kinds of gremlins and headaches.  Check the cables and grounds and if the battery is a couple of years old, replace it.

Posted
18 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

Don't discount the battery itself.  It either needs a good charging or it is bad.  A bad cell in a battery can cause all kinds of gremlins and headaches.  Check the cables and grounds and if the battery is a couple of years old, replace it.

The battery is original to the truck so just about 5 years old

Posted

You need a new battery my friend.  It may not solve the issues, but it is needed.  Go get a good one from Costco, Interstate, or NAPA. 

Posted
12 hours ago, Colossus said:

You need a new battery my friend.  It may not solve the issues, but it is needed.  Go get a good one from Costco, Interstate, or NAPA. 

So I dont want to jinx myself but I installed a new battery and all the issues have disappeared. However, I took it to autozone for a code read and it came back with PO335 which is a crank shaft position sensor. The check engine light wasnt on. It seems to be driving better and running smoother. Ill run it some more and see if anything else comes back. 

Posted

5 years is the limit for me and our vehicles on batteries.  Basically the 5th year winter is when I change them out because that is when I notice slow cranking in cold weather, 30°F or less. 

 

Vehicles now are so dependent on good strong power that the slightest loss can cause all kinds of gremlins as you just found out and as time goes on it will get worse since more and more of the vehicle is now talking with each system on the vehicle as a whole. 

Posted

Battery is permanently degraded if you let it run to 0.

Problems sound like electrical problem , wiring to battery and to ground. Replacing battery likely tightened everything up. Clear codes, clear gas (computer may not be able to adjust to 93 and will result in pre ignition , setting off knock sensors and crank shaft position sensor)

Posted
1 hour ago, sefiroxx said:

Battery is permanently degraded if you let it run to 0.

Problems sound like electrical problem , wiring to battery and to ground. Replacing battery likely tightened everything up. Clear codes, clear gas (computer may not be able to adjust to 93 and will result in pre ignition , setting off knock sensors and crank shaft position sensor)

The knock sensor code came before the 93 gas was put in. But the crank shaft code is new which may have come on when the battery wasnt supplying properly as there was an engine light on but I did not take it in to get scanned. I assumed it was the knock sensor code coming back. 

Posted
On 11/21/2018 at 11:26 AM, Mfire123 said:

So I dont want to jinx myself but I installed a new battery and all the issues have disappeared. However, I took it to autozone for a code read and it came back with PO335 which is a crank shaft position sensor. The check engine light wasnt on. It seems to be driving better and running smoother. Ill run it some more and see if anything else comes back. 

Was that a pending or history code?  Either way, I would ignore it since you just changed the battery.  Give it some time and see.

 

If it will not see regular use anymore, take it out for a drive at least once a week or two for exercise.  Run the windows, ac settings, seats, shift into 4WD and 4LO and neutral, keep things limbered up.

 

We see posts all the time where someone has a 4x4 but hasn't used it in years and is frustrated that it didn't work when needed even though they never took care of it.

Posted
13 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Was that a pending or history code?  Either way, I would ignore it since you just changed the battery.  Give it some time and see.

 

If it will not see regular use anymore, take it out for a drive at least once a week or two for exercise.  Run the windows, ac settings, seats, shift into 4WD and 4LO and neutral, keep things limbered up.

 

We see posts all the time where someone has a 4x4 but hasn't used it in years and is frustrated that it didn't work when needed even though they never took care of it.

It didnt specify which it was but would the check engine light have been on if it were active? I ripped it today up and down the highway and to run some errands and everything seemed ok. The only issue (which Ive experienced before) is this, I ran it on the highway and it ran perfect and got to my destination and shut it down. Got a coffee and then turned around and got back on the highway and it started vibrating/shaking while on the highway going roughly 60-65 mph. Hard to say if it was the front end or a u joint. It did this before with the same sequence. Drove it down the highway fine. Got to my destination, jumped back on the highway and it started vibrating with a "bouncy" feel. Anyways, thanks for the tips. 

Posted
6 hours ago, Mfire123 said:

It didnt specify which it was but would the check engine light have been on if it were active?

No, not all codes will keep a light on.  They are classed as Type A and Type B and if memory serves the former keep the light on.

 

As for vibrations, could be a dozen things from motor mounts, AFM and motor mount, wheels out of balance, steering, etc.

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