Jump to content

Roof leak

BUDMANZ71

By BUDMANZ71
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

BUDMANZ71 Enthusiast

BUDMANZ71

Posted
Posted

I brought my truck to the dealer and they diagnosed the leak as the third break light.   I brought it home and put some rtv sealant on it and put it all back together.   Came out after some rain about a week later and it still leaked.   Could it be the sunroof?   I checked the drains and water leaked out as it should behind the front tires.   It seems a little far forward for it to be the third break light.   I just took it off again and re sealed it and put some clear silicone on the outside of it.   Any help would be appreciated.   Thanks. 

15428216951027261774798382921119.jpg

Omar Alvarado Enthusiast

Omar Alvarado

Posted
Posted

I got the same problem but not that bad.....mine is just a line in the back that goes side to side. Idk why but i used the chemical guys headliner cleaner and worked

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

Did you check the back drains there are 4 one on each corner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Borntorun Enthusiast

Borntorun

Posted
Posted

I had leak but mine was from shark fin on roof. Water was around overhead compartment. No staining. Actually leaked twice was told by dealer there was a change made on what sealant to use.

BUDMANZ71 Enthusiast

BUDMANZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well after re sealing the brake light and putting some clear rtv on the outside I brought it through a touchless wash and we had heavy rains with no leaks....heres to hoping it's fixed.

Bordo3k New Member

Bordo3k

Posted
Posted

my 2014 Sierra was taking in water- headliner was soaked around the part of the roof where the onstar and sunroof buttons are. Research and an auto body expert both told me it was the shark fin XM antenna.They called the dealer next door and they confirmed that it is a continuing issue they see all the time. The seal gets damged when the vehicle goes through a car wash with brushes. Tried RTV clear silicone but did not fix the problem. Finally paid the money and had the auto body shop replace the shark fin. They reinforced it with some kind of tape (buttle tape or something? Cant remember) in hopes that it may help prevent another damage. They showed me how the seal was all busted up and they showed me the bracket that held the shark fin on- it was very corroded. Apparently if left unfixed it could possibly short out your display screen and other electronics. I think 250 in parts and labor was pretty good to get it fixed right. I took it to Monticello Auto Body in Monticello MN. The Chevy dealership wanted to charge me double.

BUDMANZ71 Enthusiast

BUDMANZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They originally replaced the shark fin and then when I brought it back again they said the third brake light.   But my extended warranty does not cover the third brake light. 

Borntorun Enthusiast

Borntorun

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Bordo3k said:

my 2014 Sierra was taking in water- headliner was soaked around the part of the roof where the onstar and sunroof buttons are. Research and an auto body expert both told me it was the shark fin XM antenna.They called the dealer next door and they confirmed that it is a continuing issue they see all the time. The seal gets damged when the vehicle goes through a car wash with brushes. Tried RTV clear silicone but did not fix the problem. Finally paid the money and had the auto body shop replace the shark fin. They reinforced it with some kind of tape (buttle tape or something? Cant remember) in hopes that it may help prevent another damage. They showed me how the seal was all busted up and they showed me the bracket that held the shark fin on- it was very corroded. Apparently if left unfixed it could possibly short out your display screen and other electronics. I think 250 in parts and labor was pretty good to get it fixed right. I took it to Monticello Auto Body in Monticello MN. The Chevy dealership wanted to charge me double.

Dealer replaced my rubber gasket and use a new sealant that I was told they changed too . Second time for same repair on my 14 serria and my truck doesn't go thru car wash so I think there maybe more to problem. 

Bordo3k New Member

Bordo3k

Posted
Posted

Pretty sad that we have these issues with water. Very unacceptable. I had a lot of respect for GM until I bought this truck and now myself and thousands of others are having roof leak issues. This should have been a massive recall. Then they go and announce they are shutting down a handful of factory’s and moving out of the country. What a joke. 

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted

Was taking my daughter to school the other morning and it was raining.  While driving down the highway water started dripping from right where the visor rod goes into the ceiling.  Sure enough right above that is the satellite antenna.

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
39 minutes ago, Jacoby said:

Was taking my daughter to school the other morning and it was raining.  While driving down the highway water started dripping from right where the visor rod goes into the ceiling.  Sure enough right above that is the satellite antenna.

Is the gap on your antenna seal on the backside? They moved that (not sure why there is ANY gap) to the front side now. I live in Florida where we get rain quite often, went through hurricane Michael and the self serve car wash with the high pressure water and have no leaks YET. I plan on filling that gap with some white RTV since my truck is white. I agree with others, this is pretty unacceptable on any car/truck made today.

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted

I just went and looked and yeah there's like a little square opening or a "gap" as you put it.  I'll be damned.  Guess its time to break out the silicone.  We got 3 days of rain in the forecast starting tomorrow

SS502 Senior Enthusiast

SS502

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Jacoby said:

I just went and looked and yeah there's like a little square opening or a "gap" as you put it.  I'll be damned.  Guess its time to break out the silicone.  We got 3 days of rain in the forecast starting tomorrow

From what I gather, the ones that have the little opening in the back are experiencing the leaks, they moved the opening (still not sure why there is any opening at all) to the front side and supposedly fixed the water intrusion issue. My build date is 08/09/18 and came with the opening on the front. Still going to RTV it to completely seal it up.

mbowen89 Enthusiast

mbowen89

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure my third brake light was leaking, you can see water in it. I removed it and could pour some water out.

 

It has a very thin foam seal. It was completely compressed and flat along the top, and dirty, obviously water had been leaking down through the top.

 

I put a bead of RTV over foam and I hope that fixes it permanently.

20181216_115449.jpg

20181216_115737.jpg

BUDMANZ71 Enthusiast

BUDMANZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That is exactly what I would expect to see when the third break light was leaking.   This has to be my sunroof.  Thanks for the reply and pictures 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
    • diyer2
      Gas Prices

      By diyer2 · Posted

      still $4.00 85 oct.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...