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AFM DOD Delete, will not start?


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I have a 2007 Chev Silverado 1500 and I just completed the AFM delete, cam swap, vvt delete and computer tuned by Texas Speed. After getting everything right, the engine ran briefly for 2-3 mins before having to shut it off to make some adjustments ( coolant block on back of passenger side head was lose, leaking fluids). when turning the key to on (not starting), I get "Engine Reduced Power, and Trac/stability disabled. I have checked my fuses, and sensors (most are new) and all my connections. I can get the truck to start if I spray fuel into the intake. I have a cheap obd scanner and it showed no codes on the ecu. only lights on the dash is check engine light. I am 3 weeks into this project and don't know what to do next.

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Not sure why your truck won’t start, but wanted to point out that if your current engine was the original, it did not have VVT.  VVT for the 5.3L came starting on the 2010 engines.  I agree on checking the fuel system, make sure the MAF or any other wires weren’t knocked loose too.  

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Thank you all for responding. A real good friend of mine is a mechanic for CAT and I was able to get him to bring his Snap On reader over. We now have the truck running and stay will running. Only issue is the computer is not sending out the 5 volts to the sensors (reference). The truck will idle smoothly, everything sounds great. But the dash is showing no oil pressure, traction stability disabled, a/c disabled, and engine reduce power. I went to check my MAP sensor yesterday and it was brittle and cracked, went ahead and replaced that. Oil pressure sensor is brand new (2nd one). Cam shaft sensor is brand new. Took some pictures of the codes.

 

I am sending the ECU & TCU back to Texas Speed. I did have a ground that I missed the first time I tried starting the truck. Texas Speed hinted that its possible that I may have messed up the computer?? My buddy said that's a first to hear that. Any suggestions???

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Oil sensor is new, and pig tail is in good shape. Based off the computer (see my 3 screen shots of the Snap On Scanner above) the issue is with the ECU. All of the sensors on the 5 volt reference/ circuit is not getting the 5 volts. Therefore the ECU has the truck in limp mode. I did have a ground not on the passenger side block (main ground from battery) first time I tried starting the truck. Texas Speed hinted that I may could have messed up the computer. I honestly don't see how, but would not be surprised, its electronics... The sensors and codes was popping up when I first turned the key on. I am hoping its just a tuning error and I wont have to replace the ECU. I shipped back my ECU yesterday to Texas Speed. I will be leaving town till the 26th. Should have it by back when I return and will update post an update on what I find. I hope this will help someone else in the future that may encounter this hurdle.

 

As far as the AFM/ DOD delete. This is the very first time that I have worked on or rebuilt a this much of an engine. I was extremely nervous. I have about 20-24 hrs in the delete. But, now that I have done it. I will say that if you have the tools, a shop or barn, patience and the time, anybody with just basic mechanical experience and knowledge can do this hardware delete. In all, I will have approx. $1600 in this delete, which includes the hardware, tune, new oil, map, & camshaft sensor, and a couple tools that I did not have. My mechanic wanted $967 to replace one AFM lifter, after he replace all the lifters back in June for $2500. Which brings me to my next topic. DO NOT USE A MECHANIC THAT WILL NOT WARRANTY HIS LABOR AND PARTS FOR ATLEAST A YEAR, AND GET IT IN WRITING!!! This mechanic told me back in June that the work was good for 12 months. When I had a lifter fail, he was only offering to cover $50 for the lifter and $100 on his labor, after saying his warranty was for 90 days. Then tried to say I left his shop with 0 oil psi. Which was a lie. My psi was always 7-10psi warm idling, and around 20-25 driving. There is no way I could have gone 5 months with no oil psi, much less 5 miles down the road. If I had no oil pressure at that time, a good mechanic would have advised a new oil pump, which I would have done. So lesson learned. I will not use a mechanic if he doesn't back his work in writing. Anything other is hearsay.

 

One last advice, if the AFM or DOD fails, DO THE AFM DELETE!!! Rid the motor of it!! Don't waste your money on the OEM parts and labor to replace the lifters! Delete it all!!!

 

2018 has been expensive!

Jan $1200 for a rear main seal (bad oil leak)

Jun $2500 for oem afm repair (because I am an idiot)

Dec $1600 for AFM delete (did the work myself)

 

$5300!!

 

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On 12/14/2018 at 5:28 AM, jstanley00 said:

Oil sensor is new, and pig tail is in good shape

 

Does you vehicle have an oil pressure sender screen?   If so, did you check it? It is difficult to remove and does not come out with the sender. You need a dental pick or other similar tool to remove it. 

 

On 12/14/2018 at 5:28 AM, jstanley00 said:

DO NOT USE A MECHANIC THAT WILL NOT WARRANTY HIS LABOR AND PARTS FOR ATLEAST A YEAR, AND GET IT IN WRITING!!

 

Even if they have a good warranty, they are often incompetent. Many mechanics over charge, fix things that were not broken, break things that were not broken, improperly diagnose items, throw parts at vehicles, etc etc etc. I have not been to a mechanic in many years. I fix it my self. If I cant fix it, then I lean how do it and then I go buy the tools - then I fix it. 

 

 

 

 

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I took out the screen and threw it away. Eliminating that problem. I also didn’t mention above, this kit did also a VVT delete. Eliminating the OEM valley cover and those solenoids that control the AFM (on oem valley plate). 

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Yes. It is the 5volt reference. That’s why I’m having to send my ECU back to Texas Speed to check and see what’s up. May be a bad computer. 

 

After hooking up a good scanner, we was able to see the issue. 

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