Jump to content

Finally...Largest Tire I saw fit today on '17 3500


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am in on another thread that has like 3000 replies and lots of back and forth, which is great because that's how I learn.  But I finally got the answer to my question.  I wanted 295/70/18 MT Baja MTZ p3 on my stock 2017 3500 HD 6.0 4x4 SRW CCLB.  I kept hearing guys running 305/60/20 or 305/70/18 with some rub on full lock.  Some had levels.  Some just had turned keys.  I didnt want turned keys or a level.  I want rake with stock geometry.  The only mod I have done was removing the lower valance.  

Well I was at discount tire today for them to patch a tire and I got to talking to the service manager who  gave me a very fair quote including certificates, but he didn't have the MT's in stock.  I told him to mount a single 295/70/19 Nitto Ridge Grappler on the front and by God, that thing fit like a glove.  I had 1/2"-1" clearance all around.  Full lock.  No rub.  No trimming.  I was pleasantly surprised.  I had him order the MT Baja's.  So for the record, you can fit a 34.5" x 11.8" mud tire on a bone stock '17 3500 w/ 8" w rims and NO RUB As long as you remove the lame air damn.  I wanted to stay at 295 so I could stay in Load Range E1.  305's are almost all E2.  And the MT's have a 129 index to boot.  I will post pics once they are fitted.  

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 1/8/2019 at 10:17 PM, EZTundra77 said:

I am in on another thread that has like 3000 replies and lots of back and forth, which is great because that's how I learn.  But I finally got the answer to my question.  I wanted 295/70/18 MT Baja MTZ p3 on my stock 2017 3500 HD 6.0 4x4 SRW CCLB.  I kept hearing guys running 305/60/20 or 305/70/18 with some rub on full lock.  Some had levels.  Some just had turned keys.  I didnt want turned keys or a level.  I want rake with stock geometry.  The only mod I have done was removing the lower valance.  

Well I was at discount tire today for them to patch a tire and I got to talking to the service manager who  gave me a very fair quote including certificates, but he didn't have the MT's in stock.  I told him to mount a single 295/70/19 Nitto Ridge Grappler on the front and by God, that thing fit like a glove.  I had 1/2"-1" clearance all around.  Full lock.  No rub.  No trimming.  I was pleasantly surprised.  I had him order the MT Baja's.  So for the record, you can fit a 34.5" x 11.8" mud tire on a bone stock '17 3500 w/ 8" w rims and NO RUB As long as you remove the lame air damn.  I wanted to stay at 295 so I could stay in Load Range E1.  305's are almost all E2.  And the MT's have a 129 index to boot.  I will post pics once they are fitted.  

 

35x12.50 on mine

IMG_1707.thumb.JPG.2c61600bc767a572f3b25b7fb9b70de4.jpg

Posted
4 hours ago, rickit said:

35x12.50 on mine

IMG_1707.thumb.JPG.2c61600bc767a572f3b25b7fb9b70de4.jpg

I think 35x12.5 is pretty common with a level but those look good.  Mine is not leveled.  I like the rake.  What tires are you running?

Posted
5 hours ago, rickit said:

Michelin defenders I don't do any off roading, their great on snow 

Nice.  I have Michelin LTX AT2 on my wife's sequoia and those do quite well in any road conditions and not too bad on light off road as well.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Today I had a set of Cooper AT3 XLT's  (295 70 R18) installed on my 2018 GMC 3500, CC, 4X4, SB, SRW, Denali, gas.  I wanted the extra safety margin (4080 vs 3525 @ 80psi) even though I was still under the load rating of my stock tire.  I carry a Bigfoot slide in truck camper which weighs 3360lbs.  My truck is stock and the tires fit without modification except the lower valance was removed previously in order to accommodate my Boss snow plow mount.  The tires are very quiet with only a very slight whisper over the stock Wranglers.  

 

A special shout out to EZTundra77 for responding to my fitment questions.  

 

Thanks,

Peter

Posted
4 hours ago, Flyfisher said:

Today I had a set of Cooper AT3 XLT's  (295 70 R18) installed on my 2018 GMC 3500, CC, 4X4, SB, SRW, Denali, gas.  I wanted the extra safety margin (4080 vs 3525 @ 80psi) even though I was still under the load rating of my stock tire.  I carry a Bigfoot slide in truck camper which weighs 3360lbs.  My truck is stock and the tires fit without modification except the lower valance was removed previously in order to accommodate my Boss snow plow mount.  The tires are very quiet with only a very slight whisper over the stock Wranglers.  

 

A special shout out to EZTundra77 for responding to my fitment questions.  

 

Thanks,

Peter

My pleasure.  I miss those quiet tires.  Enjoy those 35x12.  Gotta love a truck that will take those bone stock.

Posted
On 3/25/2019 at 6:32 PM, Flyfisher said:

Today I had a set of Cooper AT3 XLT's  (295 70 R18) installed on my 2018 GMC 3500, CC, 4X4, SB, SRW, Denali, gas.  I wanted the extra safety margin (4080 vs 3525 @ 80psi) even though I was still under the load rating of my stock tire.  I carry a Bigfoot slide in truck camper which weighs 3360lbs.  My truck is stock and the tires fit without modification except the lower valance was removed previously in order to accommodate my Boss snow plow mount.  The tires are very quiet with only a very slight whisper over the stock Wranglers.  

 

A special shout out to EZTundra77 for responding to my fitment questions.  

 

Thanks,

Peter

Let's see some pictures

Posted
On 3/25/2019 at 7:32 PM, Flyfisher said:

Today I had a set of Cooper AT3 XLT's  (295 70 R18) installed on my 2018 GMC 3500, CC, 4X4, SB, SRW, Denali, gas.  I wanted the extra safety margin (4080 vs 3525 @ 80psi) even though I was still under the load rating of my stock tire.  I carry a Bigfoot slide in truck camper which weighs 3360lbs.  My truck is stock and the tires fit without modification except the lower valance was removed previously in order to accommodate my Boss snow plow mount.  The tires are very quiet with only a very slight whisper over the stock Wranglers.  

 

A special shout out to EZTundra77 for responding to my fitment questions.  

 

Thanks,

Peter

Yes - pictures. I've been looking and plan to slap a set of these (probably 275's) on my 2500 this fall! Besides - love seeing pics of folks' trucks

 

Posted

5c9badb0a7709_0iAXrOG7QCvZBMYPNe2vw_thumb_7382.thumb.jpg.40365ab7809d74c7c87e5443238731c1.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7465.thumb.jpg.6703cdbd177bd5aaf2eebdd0a0b0573f.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7381.thumb.jpg.5ca89366b41bf9b146720e92e3055b20.jpg

 

I posted these already but this is my '17 3500 bone stock. 295/70/18 MT Baja MTZ P3 with no level, no spacers, no rub, no trimming, on stock aluminum wheels.  I had already removed the lower valence but I don't think it would've rubbed.  Mickey T calls these 34.5 x 12.  

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Been running 35x12.5x18 BFG KO2's on my 2500 with completely stock suspension for 14k miles now. no rubbing fender well, air dam, etc. 

Posted

Solid intel. I figured 35x12.5 would fit. Good to know for sure though. And also good to know that 2500 and 3500 ride the same height. I traded this in for a ‘19 Ram 3500 Cummins HO and I took the tires with me. The Ram rides even higher. There is tons of room for these shoes now. 

50FEB5FE-2A38-4B0B-8C27-E64419B51FD7.jpeg

Posted
33 minutes ago, OpsWest said:

Been running 35x12.5x18 BFG KO2's on my 2500 with completely stock suspension for 14k miles now. no rubbing fender well, air dam, etc. 

Interesting to see guys running extensive lift to fit those same shoes. Either 1500’s  ride much lower or they are just lifting for looks. Maybe also for extreme off road articulation but I think that level of travel is not nearly as common as 6” lift kits. Maybe the ‘14-‘19 rigs are just running much higher than they used to for 2500 and 3500

Posted

This, We see people with 6 inch lifts, and crazy wheel options, -44 offset. They need that lift just to clear the scrub radius of those wheels sticking out so much.

I've got skinny 35's, but a +12 offset on my 18x9 wheels, with stock wheels I think these would fit with out lift or cranking the bars....

Posted

 I don’t know for sure about that offset. But I’m thinking it would fit. I believe the offset on the stock 3500 wheels that I had or zero offset. But I’m not sure about that. It’s worth a try. I’m guessing that worst-case and Ariel, you have to trim the felt or something minor like that. Another benefit of not lifting, is that you maintain stock geometry. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,254 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...