Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
14 minutes ago, mjm-1957 said:

Did you check the injector connector with a noid light? The connector has 12 volts on one leg and the ecm grounds the other to fire the injector. The noid light plugs into where the injector would go and shows if the ECM is providing power and ground.

 

No just a regular tester light. Don’t have means to a noid light. So I assume a trip to the dealer would be the next trip before a tear down. 

Posted

Pull the valve cover. Connect what is necessary to run. Start the engine and slowly loosen the rockers on the bad cylinder. If the misfire goes away you have a lifter that is stuck in the "up" position. Only ever saw it once but was a bitch to find that first time. Noid lights are cheap on Ebay or Harbor freight.

Posted

110? compression,not good, carbon on valve seat?rings?and you just mentioned 300 code,so more to it,you wount get a 300 from 1 cylinder,it's "random",all over

Posted
37 minutes ago, tbarn said:

Pull the valve cover. Connect what is necessary to run. Start the engine and slowly loosen the rockers on the bad cylinder. If the misfire goes away you have a lifter that is stuck in the "up" position. Only ever saw it once but was a bitch to find that first time. Noid lights are cheap on Ebay or Harbor freight.

 

37 minutes ago, tbarn said:

Pull the valve cover. Connect what is necessary to run. Start the engine and slowly loosen the rockers on the bad cylinder. If the misfire goes away you have a lifter that is stuck in the "up" position. Only ever saw it once but was a bitch to find that first time. Noid lights are cheap on Ebay or Harbor freight.

“Well it can't be stuck because when we rolled the engine over both rockers are rocking meaning the lifters are not stuck. If a rocker would be stuck all the way up then your push rod would be loose and probably fall out of place.” 

 

Thats is what I got back from the person I had checking it. 

Posted
1 hour ago, riverbanks said:

110? compression,not good, carbon on valve seat?rings?and you just mentioned 300 code,so more to it,you wount get a 300 from 1 cylinder,it's "random",all over

When he hooked up the compression gauge we only took out cylinder 5 plug. I just turned the key without engine starting. Just sorta clicked the ignition. Was that correct? 

About the 300 code yes I did know it was random. Misfires sure throw the computer out of wack. I’m not sure what to do next. Had no visible play in the rockers when taking off valve cover. Could a collapsed lifter be possible with  rockers operating as normal. Of course only pulled the valve cover on side of cylinder 5 where the code read. 

Posted

If the motor was spinning shortly before,yes, proper test, two ways,dry,and wet,dry meaning sitting,so you said multiple scanners,what's the misfire count at? All one side or everywhere? problem you have is random"multiple misfire"so it's all ready been compensating,now the weak link shows up, compression test on all cylinders,fuel pressure test

Posted (edited)

Cylinder 5 is NOT an AFM cylinder.  Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7.  A collapsed AFM lifter can be ruled right out for cylinder 5. 

 

If its a mechanically caused missfire, it could be a bad cam lobe or bent pushrod.  We've had a couple AFM and non AFM engines with bad lobes before on both AFM and non AFM cylinders.

 

Also, as some have mentioned, intake gasket leak.

 

As for checking cylinder 5 mechanically, you could pull the cover, pull all the rockers and the rocker support, and check the pushrods on that cylinder. 

 

How did the spark plug look that you pulled out on that cylinder (the one pulled before installing the new one)? 

Edited by newdude
Posted
4 minutes ago, newdude said:

Cylinder 5 is NOT an AFM cylinder.  Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7.  A collapsed AFM lifter can be ruled right out for cylinder 5. 

 

If its a mechanically caused missfire, it could be a bad cam lobe or bent pushrod.  We've had a couple AFM and non AFM engines with bad lobes before on both AFM and non AFM cylinders.

 

Also, as some have mentioned, intake gasket leak.

 

As for checking cylinder 5 mechanically, you could pull the cover, pull all the rockers and the rocker support, and check the pushrods on that cylinder. 

 

How did the spark plug look that you pulled out on that cylinder (the one pulled before installing the new one)? 

The spark plug didn’t look bad at all. The code that keeps showing on all 3 test are p0305 & p0300. Meaning misfire cylinder 5 and random misfire as you said. We didn’t check the pushrods. He just checked that when turning the engine that they were operating normally and when we stopped it he said he had it to where the cam lobes were sitting flat then pushed on the rockers and none could be pushed in  

 

this is what he sent me when mentioning collapsed lifter. 

 

Well it can't be stuck because when we rolled the engine over both rockers are rocking meaning the lifters are not stuck. If a rocker would be stuck all the way up then your push rod would be loose and probably fall out of place.

Posted
10 minutes ago, tbarn said:

Wow. I give up.

Sorry man.

For one I don’t understand how when I pull all connectors off they all seem to make a change in the engine except for the one on cylinder 5 but it has current going to it. 

Secondly. If Cylinder 5 is the one getting the misfire to it. Would a lifter cause a misfire? 

Third. When we did pull the valve cover off on the side of cylinder 1, 3, 5, & 7 and he checked the rocker arm position. Since 5 isn’t an AFM lifter would it be stuck in a position that would cause it to seem locked since is inoperable while idling? 

Posted (edited)
34 minutes ago, YakAttack said:

Sorry man.

For one I don’t understand how when I pull all connectors off they all seem to make a change in the engine except for the one on cylinder 5 but it has current going to it. 

Secondly. If Cylinder 5 is the one getting the misfire to it. Would a lifter cause a misfire? 

Third. When we did pull the valve cover off on the side of cylinder 1, 3, 5, & 7 and he checked the rocker arm position. Since 5 isn’t an AFM lifter would it be stuck in a position that would cause it to seem locked since is inoperable while idling? 

 

A non AFM lifter could cause a misfire, but if it is, I'd be checking the camshaft lobe for pitting and wear.  If the lifter spins the bore at all, it would eat into the lobe.  Is there any metallic squeak noises when its running at any RPM range?  Something that would follow the speed of the engine? 

Edited by newdude
Posted
53 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

A non AFM lifter could cause a misfire, but if it is, I'd be checking the camshaft lobe for pitting and wear.  If the lifter spins the bore at all, it would eat into the lobe.  Is there any metallic squeak noises when its running at any RPM range?  Something that would follow the speed of the engine? 

 It’s more of a slight tick. Not really a squeak. We haven’t tore into anything more than taking off just one valve cover. It’s my every day driver to work so was scared to tear too far into it if I don’t have the parts ready to fix it before the week day. Any suggestions. I’ve still yet to bring it to the dealer and let them put on a diagnostic machine. Only used the hand helds. 

Posted
1 hour ago, sefiroxx said:

Double check the injector.

 

Noid light to confirm power. Then a mechanics stethoscope to confirm it is opening (ticking)

 

 

I will get noid light rental from O’Rielys and check each one. How do I use the mechanic stethoscope?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,481 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...