Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

In the old body style, it was easy to add a second battery but in the new one, it seems much more difficult.  Am I missing something?

2014-chevrolet-silverado-engine-bay.jpg

Posted
10 hours ago, ColoradoDaily said:

In the old body style, it was easy to add a second battery but in the new one, it seems much more difficult.  Am I missing something?

2014-chevrolet-silverado-engine-bay.jpg

I was thinking the same thing.  I think maybe a frame mounted gel cell may be the only way to go now as there is NO room under the hood.  Looks like plenty of room behind the gas tank (especially since it's so damn small).

 

Looks to me like the big issue is the fender supports are now angled- I suppose to help in a crash.  Hopefully we will see some aftermarket support here, or I will figure something out for mine at some point.  

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Same here.  My 2008 had a second Optima yellow top to run the radio and some other accessories and not run down the cranking battery.  I had the two tied together with a solenoid that was normally off, and just flipped a switch in the cab and they tied together and the alternator would charge the deep cycle.  I was interested in doing the same on my 19 Sierra, but no joy. 

 

I saved my own rear a few times when the main battery went dead, and the deep cycle would keep me going long enough to finish the day and get home without being stranded on the side of the road, or having to have a jump box and worry about keeping it charged.  

 

I am also looking at an Optima Red Top for my Sierra, so it won't be so much of an issue... maybe.

Posted (edited)
On 4/26/2019 at 5:20 PM, AJ Sullivan said:

Same here.  My 2008 had a second Optima yellow top to run the radio and some other accessories and not run down the cranking battery.  I had the two tied together with a solenoid that was normally off, and just flipped a switch in the cab and they tied together and the alternator would charge the deep cycle.  I was interested in doing the same on my 19 Sierra, but no joy. 

 

I saved my own rear a few times when the main battery went dead, and the deep cycle would keep me going long enough to finish the day and get home without being stranded on the side of the road, or having to have a jump box and worry about keeping it charged.  

 

I am also looking at an Optima Red Top for my Sierra, so it won't be so much of an issue... maybe.

Ok- I spent some time under the truck today and I think I may be able to make a bracket to fit an optima or something like that behind  the front bumper.  Crazy right?

it would easily fit- room for a winch in there if you had an aftermarket bumper. There are some beefy brackets on either side and it wouldn’t be too hard to make a  heavy duty tray to fit there. The area is pretty well protected too.  

I’m gonna stew on that for a bit.

 

I’m used to a dual battery setup and leaving my ARB Fridge running all the time in the back. It’s so nice for trips/camping etc. I miss it, I don’t like leaving it on with no backup though. 

 

Edited by Limelight
Posted

Check out CTEK. I used a CTEK Dual 250S to run 2 batteries in my Tacoma. CTEK makes 12v chargers that run off your alternator and or a solar panel. You can mount your battery anywhere and you only have to run a small gauge wire from your main battery to the charger. I made a battery box in the bed of my truck that held the charger and a fuse box to run all of my gear. I also had a 25w solar panel on my roof rack that always kept the system topped off too. I liked this setup as 1 bad battery cant drain the good one, and if you have an issue with the main battery you can just swap it for the one in the bed. 

Posted
57 minutes ago, Dea1276 said:

Check out CTEK. I used a CTEK Dual 250S to run 2 batteries in my Tacoma. CTEK makes 12v chargers that run off your alternator and or a solar panel. You can mount your battery anywhere and you only have to run a small gauge wire from your main battery to the charger. I made a battery box in the bed of my truck that held the charger and a fuse box to run all of my gear. I also had a 25w solar panel on my roof rack that always kept the system topped off too. I liked this setup as 1 bad battery cant drain the good one, and if you have an issue with the main battery you can just swap it for the one in the bed. 

Thanks for that but I’ll be using a dual battery setup with an isolator like I had in my 4Runner. This will allow self jump starting with the flick of a switch if one battery dies. 

Just the option I’m interested In but I appreciate the response. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted

I'm looking at getting a Decked system. From what I've seen you can put a complete dual system in the back part of one of the drawers. There is a pic with the second battery and on board air system contained in one drawer.  Not a simple solution but it is an option.  I'll probably go this rout myself.  i'm already starting to plan it out and get parts, but it will be a while since i don't have a garage.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I've been looking to install a daul battery set up as well.

 

-2021 chevy silverado trail boss

 

I believe just above the front passenger wheel well is enough space for atleast an optima yellow top D51. There are two spots that I think I can mount some L brackets with some bending of them.

 

I still need to do some learning. I don't know if a small battery can be used.

 

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 6/26/2022 at 1:03 PM, Joel Carveiro said:

I've been looking to install a daul battery set up as well.

 

-2021 chevy silverado trail boss

 

I believe just above the front passenger wheel well is enough space for atleast an optima yellow top D51. There are two spots that I think I can mount some L brackets with some bending of them.

 

I still need to do some learning. I don't know if a small battery can be used.

 

Any updates did the install work?

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Installing second battery group 24 Odyssey

 on a 2021 1500 chevy crewcab high country.   Ordered battery tray and welded angle iron on both mounting sides and ordered custom square bolts to secure to frame. The way under body is i will still have 3" of clearance on top and the tray will be 1" below frame which is still higher up then.other stuff. You can be even with frame if go with group 34 battery but this group is not popular and most are customer order and not as good as group 24. Hooking up multi mount winch cable front and back. Using cole hersee smart isolator P/N 48530 they work fantastic and reliable. Have one in a truck going on 14 years and no issues. Install momentary switch if starter battery goes dead hit the switch and current reverses and supplies power to starter battery to start your rig.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...