Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Confirmed at lunch that the line was causing a restriction.  I removed it and just plug the fuel lines back into there stock spot and my fuel trims went back to the way it was before.

 

I'm going to go with the DXS fitting that is straight instead.  I never had a restriction with the Russell fitting that where straight.  So I'm going to go back to something like that.  

Posted
8 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

Have you logged you fuel trims after adding this fuel line.  After my Russell fittings failed I decided to use this line.  But I didn't from memory remember you flipped the fitting coming from the tank.  So my sensor it hanging out over the drive shaft.  But it shouldn't flow much different than how you have it set up.

 

I've been dialing in my spark since I already had my MAF and VE fueling dialed in pretty good.

 

After the only thing I did to the truck last night was I added that fuel line.  Now under WOT my fuel trims read much leaner.  At idol and cruising it's fine but I think it's causing a bottle neck at WOT.  My MAF error went from -1 to -2 to 8 to 10 and the wideband confirms it.  I'm usually around .86 lambda and before I noticed it was lean I was at .95.  Not good for WOT

 

I'm going to go out and take it off a log again and see if it goes back to the way it was be for.   

No, I haven't logged my fuel trims.  But this fuel line is the factory part for flex fuel trucks - if it is causing a bottleneck to fuel flow at WOT, wouldn't it do so on all factory flex fuel trucks equipped with this same fuel line???

  • Like 1
Posted

You could be 100% right.  Because like I said the way I bent the line wasn’t quite like yours.  I didn’t realize you spun the line from the tank around 180 degrees.

 

just wanted to let you know.  Mine was being pinched or blocked somewhere.

Posted
On 6/5/2020 at 9:45 PM, JONBLARC7 said:

You could be 100% right.  Because like I said the way I bent the line wasn’t quite like yours.  I didn’t realize you spun the line from the tank around 180 degrees.

 

just wanted to let you know.  Mine was being pinched or blocked somewhere.

I might have some time to do some datalogging on my truck later today, if I do, I'll get back to you with my findings.

 

Please let us know what you come up with on your suspected fuel line kink issue.

Posted

Here is how I had the line bent.  If it’s not the new fuel line I guess I could of been punching the flexible fuel line coming off the fuel tank.  But don’t believe that’s it.  If you logs come back fine.  I’ll dig into it deeper.

FC0EF821-7912-4380-AE65-BA8C67C4F4EB.jpeg

Posted (edited)

I recorded a log yesterday.  Flex fuel sensor was reporting 72.5% ethanol in fuel content, ambient (outside) air temp was 91 deg F.  WOT narrow band o2 voltage was 868mv on B1S1 and 880mv on B2S1 (plenty rich).  STFT on both banks was 0% at WOT and LTFT on B1 was -7.8% while LTFT on B2 was -9.4%.  So it wasn't running lean at WOT in my case.  If anything, the tune could stand to have a little fuel pulled out to correct for the negative fuel trim numbers.

Edited by SinisterZ71
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks 

 

I was thinking about it last night and maybe one of the clips on the top of the fuel tank that hold the soft line in place was pinching that line.  I'll hook it up again and spin the soft fuel line around like you have it and log again.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

edit***This line makes the sensor have to be directly above the driveshaft.  I used plastic to to make a mount/shelf, I'll change the line orientation later, don't recommend this though***edit

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10359092&jsn=14898

 

Hey CC guys, I found this.  Same line but straight, and few cents cheaper.  :)

AC Delco part #20967834

Edited by M H
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I tired the line post earlier again but I spun around the top fitting so the tank line came in from the drivers side door.

 

Something must be pinched or it shrunk when I heated it up to straighten it out.  With the line added it makes my WOT go lean.  Around .91 to .93 lambda,  Then I can come right back home take the line off and go for a log again and it goes right back to where it should be around .87 lambda.

 

This is all checked with my wideband.  So be careful. 

 

The Russell fitting didn't have this problem but they failed on my after two years.  So I'm going to go back to that style and just use the more expensive DSX fitting. 

 

 

You can't go by your STFT or LTFT because it doesn't reference those during WOT pulls.  That's why the STFT go to 0% as soon as the truck goes into PE. 

Posted
6 minutes ago, JONBLARC7 said:

 

 

You can't go by your STFT or LTFT because it doesn't reference those during WOT pulls.  That's why the STFT go to 0% as soon as the truck goes into PE. 

True, but I wasn't looking at my fuel trims at WOT.  I was watching my narrow band B1S1 and B2S1 o2 sensor readings - and both were above 900mv during the WOT pulls (which would generally indicate richer than 12:1 AFR).

  • Like 1
Posted

Good deal I just want people to know and double check by logging before you go ripping around.  Obviously something when wrong with my line when I heated it up and bent it out straight. 

 

.93 lambda might hurt something

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, JONBLARC7 said:

Good deal I just want people to know and double check by logging before you go ripping around.  Obviously something when wrong with my line when I heated it up and bent it out straight. 

 

.93 lambda might hurt something

.93 lambda equates to about 13.7:1 AFR which is still a bit lean for an N/A engine at WOT for my liking (I would prefer no leaner than 13.0:1 AFR), but not as terrible as 1.00 lambda (14.7:1) would be.

Edited by SinisterZ71
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yea I'm tuning it my self so I'm targeting 1.135 in PE which is .88 Lambda.  I usually hang right around .87 to .88 in a pull.  I still need to clean up my VE table alittle.

 

 

Edited by JONBLARC7
Posted
On 6/23/2020 at 12:06 PM, M H said:

 

Hey CC guys, I found this.  Same line but straight, and few cents cheaper.  :)

AC Delco part #20967834

Hey @M H did you end up using this part #? Looks like a good solution rather than boiling/bending the previously mentioned connector! 

Posted

I would not recommend.  I will probably switch to hard line adapters or something different.  I made a splash guard out of an old wheel liner, mounted the sensor to it, but its directly above the drive shaft (not optimal).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,467 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...