Jump to content

Random Misfire P0300


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all, I am new to the site so if this is in the wrong place let me know.  I have a 2015 GMC Sierra, I used the torque pro app to confirm that cylinders 1-4 are recording a misfire under load.  It doesn't miss at idle or at cruise speeds.  Is there something that links all 4 of these cylinders together in the engine harness, like a common ground or something like that.   One more thing, I don't think it matters but, the engine is supercharged with a Magnuson TVS 1900, it has also had the DOD deleted out of the ECM.  Any help would be awesome, thanks.  

Posted

If only misfires under load I would start with looking at the plugs and wires. If it was a wire or ground issue it should be misfiring all the time,  not just under load.. 

1-3-5-7 are driver's side

2-4-6-8  passenger side. 

If you have 1-4 like you said, then those would be the front two on each side. 

Posted

Oh where to start. I would swap spark plugs and wires out. There should be a Ngk colder plug in there and at least ac delco performance red wires. Then I would remove intake and check for debris. Those kits allow blow by back to intake. 

What catch can do you have? I ask because next question is o2 and afr. But without a data log of a run hard to just pick the issue. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Hillwood said:

If only misfires under load I would start with looking at the plugs and wires. If it was a wire or ground issue it should be misfiring all the time,  not just under load.. 

1-3-5-7 are driver's side

2-4-6-8  passenger side. 

If you have 1-4 like you said, then those would be the front two on each side. 

The scan tool I have is only picking up 1-4 or yes the front 4 cylinders. I can, with some certainty, move on a from a common ground issue then.  It is only under load. Thanks.

1 hour ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Oh where to start. I would swap spark plugs and wires out. There should be a Ngk colder plug in there and at least ac delco performance red wires. Then I would remove intake and check for debris. Those kits allow blow by back to intake. 

What catch can do you have? I ask because next question is o2 and afr. But without a data log of a run hard to just pick the issue. 

I will be doing what you suggest today.  I am not sure what plugs are in it.  I just got the truck and have put just over 1000 miles on it.  The supercharger was installed by Davenport Motorsports in Calgary, AB. I know it does have MSD wires on it.  With all this info you guys have given me,  I am relived that is not mechanical, that was my assumption.  Now I just got to go figure it out, thanks. 

Posted

Hey guys thanks for the help, I did figure it out.  It had 2 bad wires and and an arching coil on #8.  I have since done a complete tune up with one step colder plugs and new coils all around.  I did end up having it tuned this week by Stromberger Performance in Spokane, WA and HOLY #$%^! what a difference that made.  Thanks for the help again.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 394 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...