Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yep, agree. Seems way too complex. It has a lot of new this and that to pass EPA and get good mileage.  Not a first year engine buy for sure. IF one gets one, one better get 100,000 mile power train wty. . 

 

6.2 seems a better choice right now. . 

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, 04SierraSLT said:

Two chains AND a belt on the rear of the block??? That sound like a very expensive maintenance bill. Second, I wonder if the ECM is going to be encrypted like the 19 Colorado DMax and the upcoming C8. 

 

I was waiting for this engine also, but starting to lean back towards 6.2

He said that the chains don’t need to be touched and the belt is serviced by backing the trans off a little and removing a plate not very hard. At 150k the min you could run the belt longer her said but 150 is recommended.  

Posted (edited)

Did yall watch the 14 minute engine vid walk through? If that does not strike one as complex, with a lot of valves and sensors and water flow here and there based on this and that, I do not know what will.  As one that had the early model 5.3 with the new AFM issues, the 6.2 looks like the way to go for a few years at least. 

 

Edit: 6.2, even with the new DFM, still seems like a better choice. At least there will be a DFM deletion kit soon, should it give one issues after warranty. 

Edited by Stex
  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

So the 3.0 has been out for a couple of years now. I just bought a 21 AT4 with the 3.0 duramax. I'm wondering if any of you have found any mods to do to make a bit more power WITHOUT voiding warranty? Dont get me wrong, I'm very impressed with the little i6 duramax! But, being a guy who is always looking for ways to improve things, I was curious as to what anyone has found out! Normally I wouldn't ask for things like this but I havent had the balls to tear into it myself!

Edited by Tyler Staab
Posted

Intakes and inline fuel pressure modules is about all you're gona find. There's other threads on here that discuss these. And both of those will give you a bump in power and throttle response. Exhaust won't make any difference since its straight pipe after the cat.

Posted
On 8/18/2021 at 6:53 AM, dram1983361 said:

Intakes and inline fuel pressure modules is about all you're gona find. There's other threads on here that discuss these. And both of those will give you a bump in power and throttle response. Exhaust won't make any difference since its straight pipe after the cat.

 

Agreed, aFe and S&B make intakes. I'm looking to get the S&B intake soon for my 3.0. Also looking into the fuel filter mod. Other than that, the EPA has really killed the diesel tuning industry. There are guys on here that have replaced some of the hoses and what not, but not much in the way of gains.

 

Banks has their PedalMaster, looks promising, but it's just a piggyback tuner, people say their butt dyno says there's more power. I never trust the butt dyno as I feel it's more of a wallet dyno. As in, "I spent money expecting more power, so therefore I feel more power."

 

All in all I didn't buy my baby-max for drag racing. It's actually plenty fast off the line, sure it doesn't have top end power, but that's not why I bought it.

Posted

The Banks PedalMonster isn't a tuner, it is a throttle booster. I have one and like it. It removes the delay in the throttle so it feels more like a cable operated throttle. There are numerous levels you can set it to to dial it in to your liking. It does nothing for performance obviously. It is just for improving throttle response.

 

The Banks Derringer is their piggyback tuner, but it hasn't been released yet. I've seen estimated gains directly from Banks indicating they expect to see 60+ HP and 110+ lb/ft increase at the maximum setting. I'll be first in line when they are available!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,246 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...