Jump to content

Ventilated/Cooled Seat not working

Shawn T

Recommended Posts

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
Posted

My driver side ventilated seat is not cooling or even pushing air through the seat.  The vortex cooler is working, blowing tons of hot air out the rear vents, as normal, just no cool air through the seat.  In fact, the seat seems to warm up some.  Any thoughts?

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the 'Peltier' device isn't working.

 

Perhaps fuse or wire connection?

 

Poor cooling performance is probably why they are no longer used, and the seats are now just 'ventilated'.

 

 

Curious to hear what you find out,

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, redwngr said:

Sounds like the 'Peltier' device isn't working.

 

Perhaps fuse or wire connection?

 

Poor cooling performance is probably why they are no longer used, and the seats are now just 'ventilated'.

 

 

Curious to hear what you find out,

Does the cooler route through the memory module? The reason I ask is I had it reflashed when my mirrors would not fold in? I’m sure if it is plugged in the firmware would still be intact. My blowers still work, there is only one fuse for each seat for heat and cool. The heat function still works so I figured no sense in wasting time looking at a good fuse. Maybe for sanity sake I will. From the post above it sounds as though I can remove the cover with ease to see if the cooler is functioning 

Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

When I had my Seat vibrators replaced on warranty the tech guy never re-plugged in (I assume) the cooler devise and it did not work, and a a 2nd visit they got it right ...

Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

If you want to remove the seat cover yourself there are a couple of youtubes floating around(Google search) that show step by step how to remove them. Good luck and hope you figure it out.

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Tahoe02 said:

If you want to remove the seat cover yourself there are a couple of youtubes floating around(Google search) that show step by step how to remove them. Good luck and hope you figure it out.

Thank you, I was able to pull the cover off far enough to see everything was intact, wires look good and all harness are plugged in. The semiconductor cooler does not seem to function at all anymore, but it was both seats all at once doesn’t make sense. Fuses are good. I am still wondering if the seat memory re flash had anything to do with it. I realized you have to be careful with the cushion and the elements. They are all attached to the cushion using spray adhesive tend to tear the foam rubber if you get too rough. Maybe it’s a trip to the dealer?

Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

FYI - the cooled seats and heated seats are designed to turn on automatically when using Remote start ... so in the software is a chance for mal-function +-

 

Good Luck

 

Try a total re-set by unconnecting your battery for 30 -60 minutes

It's free to try LOL

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 hours ago, Cosmic Charlie said:

FYI - the cooled seats and heated seats are designed to turn on automatically when using Remote start ... so in the software is a chance for mal-function +-

 

Good Luck

 

Try a total re-set by unconnecting your battery for 30 -60 minutes

It's free to try LOL

OK, it's definitely worth a try.  I just got off of the phone with the dealer and the service guy was actually pretty honest about it.  He said they get about 20 appointments a week about seats and there is really nothing they can do.  I know mine are not working because they actually seem hotter with the cooler on high.  The good new is my '20 Duramax Denali Ultimate is being built, as we speak.  My brother is buying this truck and I just wanted it to be in tip top shape when he does. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: The response I expected, like it's read from a script: "The seats are not cooled, only ventilated by cool cabin air.  Try running the A/C on feet only and moving all obstructions from under and behind seat.  The ventilation performance is based on the cabin air temperature and the cleanliness of the seat perforations".  Well a couple of things to kill that theory:

1.  This summer is on record for one of the coolest in Colorado history, and it's a garage queen, the interior never gets very hot.

2. I have tried the feet A/C vents and also took a dryer vent tube and piped one of the A/C vents right to the intake(s) on the seat.

3. Cleaned the seats again (they are immaculate any way) and then let A/C from the front vents blast them for about 5 minutes without me in them

Result: as soon as your body temperature starts to warm the seats back up they blow warmer and warmer air to the point that it feels like a blow dryer.  Before they quit blowing cold air, you could only stand them on high for about 5 minutes, it felt like your rear and back were wet.  Disappointing!

Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

Maybe have the Service Manager get involved and go for a ride so you can point out exactly what the issue is. Also see if there is another truck same year with cooled seats and see if it works properly and then show the Service Manager how it is suppose to work.

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, Tahoe02 said:

Maybe have the Service Manager get involved and go for a ride so you can point out exactly what the issue is. Also see if there is another truck same year with cooled seats and see if it works properly and then show the Service Manager how it is suppose to work.

It was the manager, they backed each other up, which is OK.  My buddy has an 18, it blows much more and colder air. When I got home last night, I removed the rear seat cover to inspect the fans again.  I took the foam inlet filter off and cleaned it thoroughly, it seemed to make a difference, this morning I got that "wet back" feeling, with the air being reasonably cool, just low flow.  One mechanic did say that no matter how clean you keep your truck, the seat cushions still fill up with skin cells and micro debris, he recommended removing the seat covers and cleaning the cushions and covers to allow better flow.  I think he may be onto something because they seem to push less air year after year.  My '20 is on the line now, so my brother can deal with it, I just wanted it to be pristine when he gets it. 

Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

My 2015 SLT seats are NOT very clean (never been cleaned)  and get too cold in 15 minutes when set on high (3 lights) ... my truck has 104,000 miles also

Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

I hope that works but I am not so sure if cleaning the seats will do it. Many posters have theirs working great including mine and I just wipe my seats occasionally with plain water. Reading comments on this forum it seems like some cool and some don't, same with heated seats and heated steering wheels. I commend you for trying to get it fixed for your brother. Sounds like my family as we try to take care of each other. The 2020s are sweet but for now I am happy with my 2016 diesel. I"m sure you will enjoy the working cooled seats in your new 2020(the way it is suppose to work). LOL.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
On 7/31/2019 at 2:05 PM, Shawn T said:

Update: The response I expected, like it's read from a script: "The seats are not cooled, only ventilated by cool cabin air.  Try running the A/C on feet only and moving all obstructions from under and behind seat.  The ventilation performance is based on the cabin air temperature and the cleanliness of the seat perforations".  Well a couple of things to kill that theory:

1.  This summer is on record for one of the coolest in Colorado history, and it's a garage queen, the interior never gets very hot.

2. I have tried the feet A/C vents and also took a dryer vent tube and piped one of the A/C vents right to the intake(s) on the seat.

3. Cleaned the seats again (they are immaculate any way) and then let A/C from the front vents blast them for about 5 minutes without me in them

Result: as soon as your body temperature starts to warm the seats back up they blow warmer and warmer air to the point that it feels like a blow dryer.  Before they quit blowing cold air, you could only stand them on high for about 5 minutes, it felt like your rear and back were wet.  Disappointing!

Seems like  your dealer is confused about the equipment each year. (we had both versions a 15 - cooled, and a 16 ventilated)

 

The activation buttons on the 2 years are also different -- and indicate if cooled, or if just fan.

 

Does the truck have the vents in the seat backs?

IIRC, the cooled 15's had the vents, and the ventilated 16's (and later) do not have the vents in the back of the seats)

 

No seat vents MIGHT indicate they changed to 'ventilated' before the end of the 15 my.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 599 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...