Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 1/10/2020 at 8:58 AM, BIGDOGx said:

Why not give it a try, it's obvious the column is bad and if you were out of warranty your dealer would no doubt very much come to that conclusion right before handing you a 1-2k bill for the repair. Dealers have no troubles throwing parts at a no longer under warranty car. If anything at least with this one they are not trying to literally use tape or sealant to fix their design flaws.

I'm going to my dealership this morning. I'll come respond later with a follow up of what goes down.

 

Edit: I took my truck to the dealership and scheduled service for the recalls, I spoke to the dealership manager and my sales guy and told them the issue. The sales guy could not get the issue to be replicated until I got into the driver seat and made it happen. The sales guy then got into the driver seat and could not get it out of park.

 

During the service this Thursday they are going to look at the problem. They will run a full diagnostic, software updates and will be investigating to see if this is an interlock issue.

 

When you press on the break in the 2019-2020's you are supposed to hear the click of the lock disengaging, if you don't it means that it is stuck and won't come unlocked. What ever the makes that click and disengages the lock is what is causing this issue. 

 

I will follow up again Thursday but I'm not going to have my truck torn apart for simple sensor / interlock issue. However, I won't stop fighting over this issue till its solved.

Edited by FknLeon
  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Truck went into service for recalls today and the park issue. The technicians found some issues in relation to the vehicle getting stuck in park. It is being escalated to GM getting involved. Will update when I have further.

Posted

 Happened to my truck the day I bought it, at the dealership.  one of the salesmen and the service guy came out (both owners also) and said they have had the same issue and had a fix/explanation. 

    Not long ago trucks used a key in the column to start the truck and lock the column.  Today we have a push button on the dash instead, so the column lock is not the same any longer.  the shifter is locked into park instead.  

  Don't grab the wheel as you are getting into and out of the truck and the problem will go away, the pull/tug on the wheel put it into lock.  if you forget and do it anyway it will take you turning your wheel lock to lock numerous times and then it will still be difficult to get it to shift out of park.

  I've trained myself (and my wife) to use the grab handle instead of the wheel and haven't had it lock up since. 

Posted

I think we are talking about two different issues. My issue also happens when the car is already on.  I then put it into park while the car is running like you would waiting at the drive through of the bank. Then when I step on the brake and go to put it in drive it won’t let me pull the column shifter towards me to put it in Drive.  There is some kind of glitch, either a sensor or a software issue.  It seems as if it is not releasing the interlock once the brake is pressed. But I have checked that when I am having this issue my brake lights are still working so my brake sensor seems to be OK. 

Posted

Hey guys, sorry to hear about your issues but I have a 2020 Trail Boss and I’ve recently had these issues as well. I took it back to the dealer and they inspected it and diagnosed it as a faulty shifter actuator. I know exactly what you guys mean when you say you hit the break and you don’t hear the click that should send a signal to unlock the gear shifter. When the part arrives they will install it on my truck and I’ll let you guys know if this fixes the issue. Best of luck to you all getting your issues resolved as well. 

Posted (edited)

So quick update. They found the issue (last weekend) in my truck. Apparently a module that is linked to the shift interlock was faulty. Problem is my truck has been at the service center for a week and they can't get parts for any trucks due to the strike that happened. I am going to my dealership today to see if I can just take my truck back till the part comes in. They had to initiate a national search for the part and I return to work on February 3rd so I kinda would like my truck back.

Edited by FknLeon
Posted (edited)

Glad they found the issue. It sounds like the same diagnosis they found on mine. And I was told the same thing with regards to the parts not being in stock. So I went back and got my truck and I’ll just take it back to them once they receive the part. 

Edited by Darren33
Posted
6 hours ago, Darren33 said:

Glad they found the issue. It sounds like the same diagnosis they found on mine. And I was told the same thing with regards to the parts not being in stock. So I went back and got my truck and I’ll just take it back to them once they receive the part. 

Went in today, they closed the service center early. Going in Monday and going to take my truck back. I'll put up with the issue until they get the parts.

Posted

UPDATE: GM called me today and informed me that they now understand the issue and have determined that new modules need to be produced and will be arriving in warehouses for delivery about sometime near next week. 

 

I will get any official parts and part numbers for the community so that we can directly identify the module / part and have your dealership replace it. Once again if I have a update I will post it here. 

Posted (edited)

Recently bought 2020 Sierra truck SLT and its   gearshift also gets stuck in park intermittently. Dealership has been unable to replicate.  Is there a way for dealership to replicate this?  Any dealerships that can share solutions?

.

Edited by Susan Reisinger
Posted

No way to replicate. I have the same issue and got the same response from dealer when I took truck in a month ago. My car is going back to dealership on Tuesday since it started acting up again. In the meantime I called GM directly to have it documented. Maybe you should as well. If enough people are having the same issue GM should really spend more time figuring what is the faulty part and lot number that needs to be replaced. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 279 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...