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Installing a drain valve in the stock transmission pan


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I'm not quite to my first transmission service yet, but I'm not happy there isn't a drain plug on the pan.

 

It looks like I need to spend about $300 on a new pan (with extra capacity) for a pan with a drain plug, or a new OEM pan is only $20.  

 

How about buying a stock pan and bolting in a Fumoto or similar valve?    I'd like to be able to swap out some of the fluid, or drop the pan without having to drain the fluid that way.

 

Any reason this is a terrible idea?  

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It is really easy to do.  Just get a stock pan and weld in a drain plug. 

 

The one I got from Summit works really well and I like it because there is little that hangs down on the bottom of the pan and if something does catch it, it would take a ton of force to cause damage by the way it is welded into the pan from the inside.  Plus the inside is very low so you get a good bit of the fluid out when you pull the plug.  It isn't very much higher than the magnet that is inside the pan.  I guess I could have ground it down some inside the pan but just left it. 

 

I got this one because it is not a cast plug set up and made welding easier. 

Edited by Black02Silverado
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Yeah, I'd suggest getting one welded/brazed on.  I did it for my 4l80e, and it works great.  Bought a magnetic drain plug, and a matching nut, figured out where there was clearance with internal components, drilled the hole, welded the nut on the inside, made sure it didn't leak, then installed pan on the truck.  It worked great when I changed the fluid a month ago (WAY less mess than dealing with the fluid by dropping the pan).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have two trailers I haul (one a 24' cargo trailer and the other a 23' camper).   We took trips with both over the warmer months this year.  Even towing with air temps the high 90's, I never saw the trans temp get higher than 170 degrees.     I didn't know if it was worth the $300 for a deeper pan. 

 

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Edited by AJE
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