Jump to content

Water pump 2000 k3500 7.4l which one?

ChevroletTough

Recommended Posts

ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, pretty sure my water pump is going. Gotta check the weep holes in the am. Anyway, been trying to do research on which pump I need. Mine has the bypass hoses.

 

I googled how to replace and I’m confident I can do it. YouTube rocks sometimes!

 

I see 2 part numbers, they are wildly different in price. I assume I need the expensive one. Anyway, the pics don’t show the bypass hoses... anyone able to assist?

 

 

251-604

 

Or

 

 

252-722

 

 

4931c7a1153410a999604d1f16850019.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

two quality levels. 251-604 is what you want, unless you want to cheap out.. The 722 is $50 max

ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys. Yeah i assumed different quality. But neither pic shows the 2 bypass outlets. That is my main concern. I guess I can order the OEM one and hope their pic is just a basic one.

I have the vin letter “J” which is how I deduced the more expensive one probably being correct.

I have found that letter J makes my parts very specific, including the rear brake drums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looking closer, I get how these are sold... I have to transfer over the tubing for the bypass hoses to connect.

 

 

Makes MUCH more sense now. Question is... do I want to spend about $130 more for the OEM one.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, ChevroletTough said:

Thanks guys. Yeah i assumed different quality. But neither pic shows the 2 bypass outlets. That is my main concern. I guess I can order the OEM one and hope their pic is just a basic one.

I have the vin letter “J” which is how I deduced the more expensive one probably being correct.

I have found that letter J makes my parts very specific, including the rear brake drums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

251-604_Primary__ra_p.jpg

ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got the part and verified it appears to be the right one. Has 1 outlet on top which mine does too. Pulley location is threaded too, which is good. I will just have to find time to do this. Going to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses and the bypass hose too. Might as well. Already has a new t-stat.

 

Might flush the block too, we'll see.

 

Thanks for the info everyone!

ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Curiosity got the better of me. I took a closer look. The portion of the small bypass hose where it connects to the threaded adapter to go into the top of the water pump, appears to have a very small leak. I loosened the hose clamp, repositioned, and re tightened. Appears to be still leaking (but even less now, no belt squeal). I have ordered the bypass hose, new upper and lower rad hoses as well. I think I'll just swap them all out now (it's winter here).  Or I may just swap out the bypass hose for now as the rad hoses don't appear to be in awful condition.

 

I'll tackled the water pump (and upper and lower and lower rad hoses) when the weather is warmer and I can do it outside.

 

I'll hold on to the water pump of course.

 

Thanks for the info again, it is greatly appreciated!

 

I think shocks are on deck next, just gotta order them. Should be pretty easy to swap. I've started soaking the bolts down with liquid torch/weasle piss.

  • 2 weeks later...
ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, water pump is now leaking. I should have just replaced it! I knew new coolant would kill it somehow. The old coolant was BAAAAD. I replaced the upper and lower hoses along with the bypass hose. They were in pretty rough shape.

 

Re ordered water pump (will be here tomorrow), I already have everything out and removed aside the actual pump. I broke the mounting bolts lose (they were not very tight.....). I am not going to take the pump out until the new one shows up tomorrow. I should be able to swap it after work. I am getting a new stud kid for the fan just in case. The nuts holding the fan on were on there really good, had to use bar to hold pulling in place and they all popped off.

 

I'll be draining the coolant and flushing the block.

 

I am going to also remove the thermostat housing and replace the map sensor while I'm in there.

ChevroletTough Enthusiast

ChevroletTough

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well that was some swearing. Got new pulley studs on, everything is back on, hoses hooked back up and the coolant is topped off. Had to transfer over the bypass hose adapter (had to heat it up to get it to move) and then blue loctite. No more pulley noises and weep hole leaking. Pulled more shit out of the cooling system too! I did drop one gasket and bolt (in engine bay) and had to search for them.... [emoji35]1fa0935a9dfaa00f33e086e38e8bfcd2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • pyoung62
      2026 DENALI 6.2L

      By pyoung62 · Posted

      I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • ShowMeShooter1332
      Can you add a 360° Cameras hard button to a 2021 Sierra?

      By ShowMeShooter1332 · Posted

      I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Grumpy Bear
      Winter Returned

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • CPhelps
      4 Wheel Drive System

      By CPhelps · Posted

      Cool to see another Vermonter!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...