Jump to content

3.0 Duramax P1488 CEL code

Ogee1

By Ogee1
in Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

BillP89 New Member

BillP89

Posted
Posted (edited)

2nd day of owning this truck got this same code...  I hope there is a fix and that driving with it isn’t so bad because my schedule is hectic and dealer is a little ways away. 

Edited by BillP89
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Pinnacle
Pinnacle

Shut up with your crapota bullshit already and dont come on here saying no maker has this figured out dont speak on behalf of other makers you know nothing. Toyota has the best diesel around the world

1997SierraSLT
1997SierraSLT

Toyota is intelligent enough to not release unproven and unreliable garbage to market and allow their customer base to be guinea  pigs.     One would think companies such as Caterpillar, Det

yousaveone
yousaveone

People need to quit relating the other Duramax to ours. Their not even ALMOST the same. the big diesels are designed by Isuzu and the babies by FEV. While the codes are the same in some instances this

  • 2 weeks later...
RockyBlue Enthusiast

RockyBlue

Posted
Posted

Still working through this issue.  Been to the dealer several times.  They have a few 3.0 Duramax trucks that are experiencing the same thing.  GM Engineering is now thinking it is a leak caused by a clamp.  New clamp is on back order so I will bring the truck back in once the part is available.  This back and forth is driving me crazy!

  • 4 weeks later...
Desmo Enthusiast

Desmo

Posted
Posted

My LM2 had this code, dealer performed a service on recall N202300791 to reflash the ECU or module that controls the DEF injection. They also replaced the failed sensor. I only have a few miles on the truck since this fix, hopefully the CEL stays away.

BurnsMax Enthusiast

BurnsMax

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, gearheadesw said:

Wow, so no diesel in my future. Only in America can we totally screw up a diesel.

My LM2 has been solid with just a little over 5K on the clock.  Had a TSB for the shifter but that would be with any Silverado. Gas mileage is great.  Last trip I had 520 miles and 3 gallons left on the small 24 gallon tank.  Diesel is only .05-.10 more in my area

Edited by BurnsMax
Added info
Ogee1 Enthusiast

Ogee1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey everybody, just wanted to update my experience with the P 1488 code. So after 7 trips to the dealership to fix this issue, I was given a letter from “GM senior engineer “ that there would be a recalibration done in September. Well this was back in late May and I had had enough of the issue, so I filed a buyback/ repurchase request. I really like the trucks performance and MPG.  GM bought back my truck and I got an almost identical truck in return. It took almost two and a half months, but it finally got done. I got an almost identical truck thinking that the issue was very limited and wouldn’t have to deal with it again. 

Well guess what? My second truck has this same damn code. I thought that I would be done with the issue, but now I have to wait until next month to see what this recalibration is going to do. I will keep everyone posted as to what happens with this so called recalibration. 

Hey Rockyblue, the clamp issue you posted is the first I’ve heard. Please keep us updated if the repair works or not. Thanks

steve841 Enthusiast

steve841

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, Ogee1 said:

Hey everybody, just wanted to update my experience with the P 1488 code. So after 7 trips to the dealership to fix this issue, I was given a letter from “GM senior engineer “ that there would be a recalibration done in September. Well this was back in late May and I had had enough of the issue, so I filed a buyback/ repurchase request. I really like the trucks performance and MPG.  GM bought back my truck and I got an almost identical truck in return. It took almost two and a half months, but it finally got done. I got an almost identical truck thinking that the issue was very limited and wouldn’t have to deal with it again. 

Well guess what? My second truck has this same damn code. I thought that I would be done with the issue, but now I have to wait until next month to see what this recalibration is going to do. I will keep everyone posted as to what happens with this so called recalibration. 

Hey Rockyblue, the clamp issue you posted is the first I’ve heard. Please keep us updated if the repair works or not. Thanks

 

Definitely update us!  Thanks

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted
On 8/25/2020 at 9:52 PM, BurnsMax said:

My LM2 has been solid with just a little over 5K on the clock.  Had a TSB for the shifter but that would be with any Silverado. Gas mileage is great.  Last trip I had 520 miles and 3 gallons left on the small 24 gallon tank.  Diesel is only .05-.10 more in my area

There's no denying that modern day diesels have serious problems. Just check this thread, yours might not, but it's very, VERY common, from one ton trucks down.

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

One ton trucks?  Hell it's with the big rigs too!  The emissions stuff really screwed things up. 

RockyBlue Enthusiast

RockyBlue

Posted
Posted

Sorry been so long since I have posted here.  Still wrestling with this.  My dealer is Ed Bozarth Chevy in Colorado.  I am in the same dealership as another owner who had his in the shop for over a month and Chevy bought back the truck.  Mine is up next.  The clamp issue didn't turn up anything.  GM engineering shipped out a whole new exhaust assembly for the other truck owner but that didn't work either.  I like the performance on the truck but don't think I can pass emissions with an engine code.  Not to mention the possibility of going into Limp Mode which I've heard can happen.  

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Down at Park Meadows?  That is my neck of the woods.  They always treated me well every time I had to deal with them. 

 

yousaveone Enthusiast

yousaveone

Posted
Posted

Ed Bozarth is pretty good. My engine is great but truck has weird infotainment quirks and climate control issues. No matter how good the dealer is they only can do with the provided FSBs or TSBs to do. This is a bad on GM, and the USA in general. ALL PARTS need to be made and assembled in the USA; I'd pay more for that.

RockyBlue Enthusiast

RockyBlue

Posted
Posted
On 9/3/2020 at 10:07 PM, Colossus said:

Down at Park Meadows?  That is my neck of the woods.  They always treated me well every time I had to deal with them. 

 

Yes that is the one.  I will be taking my truck to them next week to start the process.  30 days in the shop for them to try and fix.  Then start the buy back process.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...